Air vents 3 Psi vs 5 psi in same house

b_Zeke77 · November 22

Hello,

Note I am doing this with the tools and parts I got. Will throw some money at it another time. Also I'm a one year HVAC Tech w/o any steam experience besides my own system.

I am trying to get a more even distributiin of heat throughout my steam / radiator system. I am the only person I know who still has residential steam. All this was done b4 I moved in so don't have a 100% accurate history. Have a Burnham Max Steam 200+ BTUs that is downsized nozzle at 0.75 60B, put in on 2020. Downsized to stop short cycling after they put it in. Note it was the first install for that company of this type of boiler. I beleive some of the air vents were changed at that time from Hoffman 5PSI to Vent Rite #1 3PSI. Most on the newest vent rite vents are upstairs (4) only one downstairs. I was thinking of changing where they go for more even distribution of heat. Would it make sense to put the 5PSI vents on the radiators closer to the boiler steam line (doesn't matter what floor). Put them on slow, and the 3PSI at the end of the line, wide open on 8 (out of 1-8)? Prob have to adjust a lot to see what works best.

My issue is it gets real warm on the radiators closer in line and doesn't even make it to the far side (where we spend most of our time) of the house unless we turm it up to keep it running longer. Note the thermostat is on the colder side of the house. Might have to play with settings on each but it's crazy to heat one side of the house to 75 where the part that we mostly spend your time takes long time to get to 70 compared to other side. Note I did move the pressure troll from 2psi / 1.5psi to 1psi/0.5psi so same differential but lower pressure after listening to a Dan Holohan seminar on steam heat. Actually seems a little better but now I'm determined to get it right and maybe save some $$ on fuel.

Also I need to replace a lot of INSOLATION, I still have the old abestice types on most of the pipes, is that still good or need to replaced? If it still doing the job, I'd leave it. It's in a crawl space so no humans in space regularly.

Thanks for any info you're willing to share!

-Zeke

ethicalpaul · November 22

vents aren’t sized by psi so that’s one thing that has you confused.

They are sized by how much air they pass over time.

If they pass more air, then steam will travel to that radiator faster, generally.

What is your main venting situation?

If the insulation is intact you can leave it untouched

ethicalpaul · November 22

and I’m sorry to report that it will be very hard to notice a real change on your fuel bill regardless. But you can get things a lot more comfortable.

Consult the articles on this site or Dan’s books.

It’s all about getting air out of the way so steam can get to the radiators

EBEBRATT-Ed · November 22

If any of the asbestos is broken or friable that should be removed. Otherwise, it can stay.

Vent pressure rating doesn't mean much in a house as the pressure should be under 2psi at all times.

If the boiler short cycles some have installed a TD relay to smooth things out. There are posts about that

Otherwise, you need to work on the venting to get the mains vented as fast as possible then play with the radiator vents to get things even The Steam Max is supposed to be a good boiler

b_Zeke77 · November 22

EthicalPaul; main vents are Ventrite #75, have three of them for the 3 branches.

109A_5 · November 22

The main branch or branches toward the cold end of the house should be vented faster so steam gets to the end of all the mains at about the same time.

neilc · November 23

If you're worried about 3 and 5 psi,

then we should be looking at the boiler, as mentioned above, you should not be above 2 psi at the boiler, 1.5 is better still,

post a picture or 3 , boiler floor to ceiling so we see the header and what you're working with, then a closer shot of the Ptrol so we see settings, and of the sightglass so we see water conditions, have you checked the pigtail under the Ptrol for free and clear breathing all the way back into the boiler? they get clogged up, and then the Ptrol doesn't know what it's doing,

Steamhead · November 23

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1873637#Comment_1873637

Those are rather small. How long is each steam main, and what pipe size?

patrykrebisz · November 23

it takes a long time to produce plenty of steam, but even just a little steam travels up the pipes.

when there is very little steam available, it will travel to where it's easies to push the air out. you should figure out the main feeding the part of the house the is cold, then put large main vent. this way the steam will travel there first.

b_Zeke77 · November 24

Some Pic and thanks for all response, the black pipe is 2", I have about 100 ft of pipe w/o insulation (on far side from boiler), I'd guess 250 ft of total pipe. Mega Steam 629, 151 BTUs. Pics of unit, pressuretrol, sure glass and one run of pipe and where insolation feel off.

b_Zeke77 · November 24

Site glass.... Also I should mention I replaced an indirect a year ago because the copper/nickel heat exchanger in it had a hole which flooded my steam pipes. Water heater is up high so got all in the pipes on one branch, mains had dirty water spilling out of them. All replaced. They are not seen but in top rt of Pic below circled in yellow.

Air vents 3 Psi vs 5 psi in same house

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