What can you tell me about this old Weil-Mclain E 5 B boiler?

Hugh Mason · October 30

My partner's new to her 1880s home is heated with a Weil-Mclain E-5-B boiler coupled with classic radiators. There's a Grundfos circulator in the system so it's obviously not a steam system at this point in its life . I see no information attached showing "last service" but the pressure tank is dated as of 10/6/16 and other updates appear to have occur back then. I see a screen that use to be attached to the bottom of an exhaust shroud with duct tape that's now drooping and no longer acting as a screen. There's also an uncovered hole in the exhaust vent that I would assume measurements might have once been taken.

What can you tell me about this boiler and its need for service?

What simple setback programmable thermostat would you recommend?

Thanks so much for you well earned advice!

EBEBRATT-Ed · October 30

Don't know what the duct tape is all about but it shouldn't be there and the flue pipe is falling apart with the joint in the second picture almost open. Really should not run this the way it is . Need a good tech to check it out (if one exists).

Post the city and check "find a contractor " on this site.

HVACNUT · October 31

I'm not sure I want to see the rest of it. Find a reputable service company and get a full evaluation. Hope for the best, prepare for the worst. Even the thermostat is freaking me out.

That hole in the flue that's completely disconnected is a combustion test port. A port that shouldn't be there because the boiler has a draft hood.

Steamhead · October 31

@Hugh Mason , where are you located? We might know someone who can help……………….

Hugh Mason · October 31

I'm located in Lyons NY. It appears that all of the contractors in "find a contractor" are a long ways down state from us. I've called a local well regarded plumbing and heating business and took the first available appointment - Dec. 23rd.

Thanks for all the replies so far.

hot_rod · November 1

You might want to get a CO detector ASAP

Hugh Mason · November 1

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1870357#Comment_1870357

Yes, good thinking. There are several already installed as well as natural gas detectors.

pecmsg · November 1

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1870376#Comment_1870376

A "Low Level" CO Detector!

Standard UL approved detectors will not alarm until 70 PPM is meet and exceeded for up to 4 hours. That's a lifetime………….Literally!

Hugh Mason · November 1

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1870377#Comment_1870377

Aha, that's excellent information I'll be certain to investigate.

Hugh Mason · November 7

OK, while we're waiting a few weeks for a technician to come out perhaps you well informed folks can give some feedback on the system. The way the piping is laid out I feel like this was originally a steam system that has since been updated to a pumped system. We're finding more heat than wanted upstairs. I assume that individual radiators ought to be throttleable via their valves but these all seemed seized up and I'm reluctant to apply too much force and break them. To add complication the most recent owner painted the radiators including the valves.

Do any of you experienced folks have advice in freeing these up so we might gain some level of control?

Thanks so much for any informed replies!

EdTheHeaterMan · November 7

My guess about your system's origins is that it was always a water system. You had a coal fired boiler that was piped as a gravity or thermosyphon system. There were no thermostats and the way the homeowner controlled the heat in the different seasons was with the damper settings and the amount of coal you "stoked" (shoveled into the) fire box. When that coal boiler was replaced with the boiler you have now, a circulator was added to the system. Those old gravity systems were always water systems with a supply and a return pipe to each radiator. Your top floor radiators may have orifice plates that need to be removed (also, they may not have orifice plates) that are places inside the union between the radiator and the radiator valve.

Hugh Mason · November 7

Thanks Ed. Can you expand a bit regarding orifice plates? I assume that if I could turn the valves more closed that the amount of heat delivered would be reduced to specific areas.

Steamhead · November 7

First of all, make sure all the radiator shutoffs are completely open.

I once had a call where the second floor had been cold for years. It was a problem for the previous owner as well, and no one could figure it out. I got there and tried bleeding, but all the radiators were full of water. When I tried the shutoffs, I found they were closed! Opening them solved the problem, and a couple years later, the owners had us replace the boiler.

If the shutoff's won't turn, DON'T FORCE THEM! Unbalance is one thing, a flood is something else.

What can you tell me about this old Weil-Mclain E 5 B boiler?

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