2 Firomatic Valves

Is there any fittings above the tank, maybe where it comes out the top? If so you can crack it open there. Actually I’d cut the oil line above the oil tank and install a flare shut off ball valve. Then change the firomatic.

Looks like the knob is bad. You could try using the knob from the one at the tiger loop to see if that works.

If I had to do it on the fly, I’d try the vacuum trick, or setting up and spinning on a flare ball valve quickly down stream. Then using a push pull pump to pump the oil back to the tank, fix everything, bleed and purge.

You should fix the valve. They’re required by code but I’ve never heard in all my years of a firomatic actually 'saving the day'.
Firomatic is supposed to be installed where the oil line first enters the house.
For your situation, you should also have an OSV installed no more than 3' above the burner, but it need to be installed after the filter. Ideally you would have firomatic where oil line enters the house, followed by a filter then an OSV valve, but it may not be logistically possible, but very important.

If you have any leak in the oil line past the OSV, you’re dumping all your oil in the basement. But the irony is the most likely place for a leak is that filter canister, which isn’t protected.

Vertical not necessary. Spring loaded.

Also that Thermoprice furnace may be able to be converteed the Natural Gas or Propane with a replacement burner.

@pecmsg

They are spring loaded if that is the question. Pretty strong spring.

@jonathan6

Firomatic valve are installed at the oil tank (for an indoor tank) , where the oil line enters the building for an outdoor or underground tank and at the oil burner.

IMHO the one at the filter does not need to be a firomatic valve it could be a ball valve as it is only needed to service the filter. The one near the tiger loop will suffice as the one needed at the burner.

As I said above if the handle was taken off the firomatic above the filter (it screws right off) tapping the valve stem slightly should close the valve. Screwing the handle back on will open the valve.

Changing the valve with the tank i story above the filter if a dumb idea in my opinion. They could easily cut the oil line near the top of the tank and splice it back together after changing the valve.

@Jonathan6 said: "I just received a quote from a heating company to have this valve replaced—they mentioned buckets and absorbent pads and doing it as quickly as possible. This is nearly 400 gallons of kerosene—this does not sound remotely smart or standard operating procedure to me!!!!"

That sounds like the standard operating procedure for this plumber

Perhaps you could find another oil burner technician. The company that sells you fuel oil should have the number of someone that has a brain when it comes to oil burners.

Not for nothing. I have has that exact Firomatic valve end up with a valve stem that rotated with the valve handle. that means that as you turnded the handle to the off position the valve stem also turned so the threads did not allow the stem to close. Here is something you can try.

1. hold the stem with a needle nose pliers and rotate the valve handle
2. once the handle has reached the pliers lift the valve stem away from the valve so the needle nose pliers can hold the stem from under the valve handle
3. spin the valve handle completely off the stem.
4. allow the stem to spring shut. if that does not close the valve then tap the stem to close the valve.

That Thermopride furnace has a lifetime heat exchanger warranty. You could just change the burner from oil to gas. That is actually the last furnace you need to buy for that home, as long as Thermopride is in business. OR. You can just throw it away for a lesser quality propane furnace by Carrier or Rheem.