Proactive steam valve replacement

JustinNYC · October 9

I am moving into a 1924-construction apartment in NYC, and am getting the radiators cleaned up.

Most of the valves seem original, and once the heat comes on full time (very soon!) I can't do much until next year. To make matters worse, it's possible my radiators might be re-attached after the heat is on full-time.

All of that is preamble to: should I proactively replace these? I appreciate the authenticity :).

Paul S_3 · October 9

That radiator valve looks original and part of a vapor system. We need more info. Are there steam traps on the return line? I would also make sure that valve is completely closed if they turn on the heat. Most of those old valves you can barely turn them with a wrench

Jamie Hall · October 9

@Paul S_3 is right — up to a point. Most vavles of that type (they're packless) are very difficult to turn without a wrench if they haven't been used for a while.

But. Very difficult is not impossible. If you can get them to turn — either way — even a little tiny bit, with time, patience, and moderate (don't overdo it!) applications of a good penetrating oil, they can be freed up. Just a bit at a time. Don't be a gorilla…

Steamhead · October 9

Check with Tunstall- they may have a rebuild kit for these valves.

DanHolohan · October 10

Packless valves were for vacuum systems.

Jamie Hall · October 10

?? @DanHolohan ? I may be using the wrong terminology. The Hoffman throttling valves on at least Cedric's system (Hoffman Equipped) are packless, and while it is a vapour system, it isn't really a vacuum system?

JustinNYC · October 10

Thanks everyone - I'm not a plumber I just want to be well informed so I can get the right work done. (I also do find these systems interesting - they are much more complex than people realize.)

It's a building boiler, not city steam if that helps. There are traps on all the radiator. The ones still legible read "vacuum to 25PSI" or "UP to 10 LBS STEAM". The one valve I previously shared actually came apart with hand twisting so I guess my GC or his plumber touched it already.

DanHolohan · October 10

@Jamie Hall They were used on non-vacuum systems as well, Jamie; but Hoffman’s intent was to eliminate the valve packing so that air couldn’t enter on either a mechanical vacuum system or a vapor-vacuum system. They told me that back when I was their rep.

JustinNYC · October 10

For what it's worth for anyone else finding this later, based on Mepco (who I think bought Dunham) info and this doc from the forum, I think these are old Dunham (now Mepco) 1140 valves. Mepco theoretically sells a conversion kit to 1240, but I can't find it and so wonder if one just has to buy a bunch of 1240s and use the parts to repair.

I'll ask the plumber if he can just refresh them a little.

Jamie Hall · October 10

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1867410#Comment_1867410

I suspect if Cedric's system still had the original Hoffman 76, instead of a 75 and a Gorton #2, it might hold a vacuum for along time…

Steamhead · October 11

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1867452#Comment_1867452

Cedric's system would probably have had a Hoffman #11.

mattmia2 · October 11

I'd rebuild what you have, put a new washer in and lubricate them.(not with the kit, just clean up and lubricate with a new seal disc)

I think the Tunstall kit removes the metering aspect and converts them for use with a trv.

JustinNYC · October 11

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1867481#Comment_1867481

Thanks!

Proactive steam valve replacement

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