Question about lining 90 year old cast iron sewer pipe

Anyone have any experience with lining deteriorated cast iron sewer pipe in basement floor? Anything to be aware of when hiring a contractor? Is there more than one type of pipe lining product? What is the expected life of a lined pipe?
Deteriorated line is about 65 feet across the basement floor. Complete pipe is just crumbling. Instead of line going out the front (north) wall that faces the street, sewer line starts at east wall ( master bath ) to the complete opposite (west) side of the house. Main pipe has three junctions for three other bathrooms. One junction off the main to 2nd floor guest bath has an outdoor drain at bottom of what used to be outdoor steps up to grade. (now covered at grade with a concrete slab and a bay window sitting on top of slab) .
Have another 25 feet that of the line outdoors that is clay pipe with roots as a 60 year old pin oak sits on top of. Can the clay pipe be cleaned of roots and lined as well. The uphill side is a cleanout made of plastic sewer pipe where it meets the clay. Downhill side of the tree, clay pipe meets up with plastic that goes all the way to the main line. Can this outdoor section be be lined as well.
Comments
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Odd that cast iron "crumbles". It's usually pretty tough.
What is the diameter of the lines? If they are oversize relative to modern codes, then it is possible they can be lined, but in small diameter pipe it's not easy. Another possibility if it really is crumbled is pipe bursting and pulling a new line through.
People who do this sort of thing do exist, but they aren't all the common.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
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Cast iron and clay can be lined. It depends on the company doing the job and what product they use.
A reputable company will do a full accessment of your system and offer their advice. They should send a camera down the piping to determine how feasible it is to do the job.
I would also get a plumbers perspective on how to correct your issue. You might be surprised as to how plumbing can be re-routed, pumped and plumbed for a drainage upgrade. The cost can be less in some sercomstances, and be a better more reliable job.
Companies vary from how they do things. You will need to find a company(s) in your area.
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Yes, most definitely the pipe is cast iron. Dug up the complete garage floor. You could put a shovel through the sewer pipe it was so brittle. The only thing holding the pipe together was the soil.
Really only two options to repair the problem. Concrete cutting of the slab then dig and replace or do some pipe lining which is expensive. I have a really nice epoxy floor installed about 10 years ago that was not cheap and hate to destroy. Dread the thought of concrete cutting and all that white dust going through out the whole house. No matter how hard your try to seal everything it is impossible. I know what it was like when I removed the complete slab in the two car garage a couple of years ago. UGH!!!! Tried to seal everything but still could taste the dust on the first floor when work was happening.
Thinking pipe companies are a rare bird since no one at this point on
"The Wall" has any experience with the product. Appreciate all the comments.0 -
I actually have had some experience, hence the reason for my post above.
If your shovel goes through the pipe, thats a very telling sign that the pipe may not take a lining.
Again, get some opinions from both a plumbing contractor and a pipe lining company. In conversation with them, I would ask either one their opinions about repiping and lining the pipe. If they are straight forward hopefully they will give an unbiased opinion, and maybe give you the name of a company that can help if not there own.
Pipe lining is a specialty and is worthy of looking into. Especially in your situation. Re-piping is also doable as mentioned above under the right circumstances. If it were me I would follow my own advice.
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pipe bursting with PE lines seems like good option.
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The Company I refer out for relining are masters at it. You want a sewer & drain company that has alot of experience. It works wonders and buy you alot of time and expense of excavation & street opening permits. Mad Dog
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I agree. I think they may have used slag from some of the local steel mills.
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Hello Scott w.,
As far as searching for a pipe bursting company all you need to do is type pipe bursting companies near (insert zip code here) in a search engine and you will have the ability to find a plumber or pipe repair company near you that does this.
This work is solely dependent on depth of the pipe below the slab as to whether or not the floor will be damaged as a Steam or Ultraviolet cured liner can/could still be damaged from the existing pipe.
To do this right and the first time the pipe has to be cleaned pressure washed and then a camera inserted to view the entire length of pipe before any decision or no is made.
Pipe bursting involves a winched pipe bursting head that pulls the pipe behind it as it bursts short sections of the failed pipe as it pulls the new pipe in place several inches at a time.
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This work is solely dependent on depth of the pipe below the slab as to whether or not the floor will be damaged as a Steam or Ultraviolet cured liner can/could still be damaged from the existing pipe.
Pipe bursting involves a winched pipe bursting head that pulls the pipe behind it as it bursts short sections of the failed pipe as it pulls the new pipe in place several inches at a time.
Leonz, not sure I understand these two paragraphs since I have not heard of pipe bursting. Pipe bursting sounds different than pipe lining. Am I correct with that statement? Could you explain the concept of pipe bursting if different than pipe lining. Been talking to different industry people and some folks say pipe lining can be a real nightmare and won't really last and advised against using that industry. Have spoken with some of these lining companies that display at Condo and HOA expo's in south Florida. I am president of the HOA. Winter home in south Florida. My problem is 1928 home up north. Really appreciate the info everyone has contributed here. I learn from the comments and it helps me to ask the right questions of any contractor I may hire.
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Pipe bursting is pulling a somewhat flexible plastic pipe behind a steel head that is bigger than the old pipe through the old pipe, breaking the old pipe out of the way as the new pipe is pulled in. if everything goes to plan.
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I'm on the Nassau/Queens border of Long Island. I know of one company the does it on a regular basis. If they get a "good cure" it could last 20-30 years. I Have no idea where you are, but companies like these are in very populated areas (big cities). DM me if you are in the greater NY area. Mad Dog
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I work for a commercial plumbing company. Our service department has been involved in these kinds of repairs, I do side sewers from time to time with invaded, collapsed or otherwise compromised pipe.
As much as you don't want to cut the concrete, that is where I would go with the inside portion. If the entire sawing operation is done wet you will not have dust anywhere. It requires a crew with wet vacs all the time, some dams to control the water. Done right it is an easy cleanup.
I'd start with the saw operation and remove the concrete and old pipe. Very carefully, expose where it leaves the house and have a lining or bursting contractor send in a sleeve straight down the pipe to the plastic side sewer, taking care of that clay section and far more easily than doing it in a deep pit. Been there done that.
Now you don't have all that weird work around those wyes under the concrete that you would have to cut up anyway. You can put in proper modern plumbing.
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