Maytag Refrigerator Ice Maker Frozen
I have a Maytag French Door refrigerator, MFX2571XRM1, purchased around 2011. The icemaker, W10300024, and ice bin became full of ice. Upon removal of the ice bin, it was found that the movable arm for crushing ice cubes had become disconnected from one of the pivots and was jammed. It is not known how or when it happened. The arm is the plastic piece with the metal rod end in the picture.
With the ice bin removed, I removed all ice cubes and other frozen water from the bin, including breaking up cubes in the tray and in other places in the bin housing.
Then I removed the icemaker, again removing ice cubes and surrounding frozen water from the mold. For those not familiar with these icemakers, there is a heater built into the ice cube mold that operates for several seconds after the cubes are formed to slightly thaw where the cubes contact the mold. This makes it possible for the fingers to rotate the cubes out of the mold and into the tray of the bin.
I looked at a few You Tube videos and took some multimeter readings. Since the icemaker was disconnected from the power cable, I could not check voltage presence. I was, however, able to measure the resistance of the heater/icemaker assembly. The blue label says the icemaker is 260 watts and 115 volts. This calculates a resistance of 50.9 ohms. There was a comment in one of the videos about the resistance being 72 ohms, which comes out to about 184 watts. Looking back at that video, the label for that icemaker said 185 watts. I conclude the heater/icemaker has sufficient continuity.
At this point I am unable to conclude exactly what happened. Since I have no evidence the water supply valve is leaking, I tend to think the excess may be because of the high humidity this spring and frequent use of the ice maker. Maybe some cubes got “stuck” and forced the flap over the opening, where the cubes/crushed ice come out of the bin and through the passage in the door into the container for the ice, to be out of position. I can’t positively prove if the arm being out of position, kept the flap from closing, thereby constantly allowing humid air from the kitchen to entering the ice bin/icemaker. Or if opening the refrigerator door in the humid weather allowed moisture into the refrigerator which then condensed in the mold. All guesswork.
While my preference is to know what happened and not get into putting the unit back together, only to have to remove it again, I tend to think, quit guessing, put it back together and see what happens.
I am trying to figure out the best next steps. A new Maytag icemaker is almost $300 at multiple sources. There are lots of aftermarket “equivalents”, but I do not know which are reliable and if the icemaker is not the cause, what is??? Being a DIY guy with my apartment heating system, I try to fix things on my own, many times with advice from HHers. Maybe someone has experience with these icemakers.
Comments
-
whirlpool doesn't make that icemaker. if you buy one from supco or someone like that it is the exact same part.
mine did something like that a decade ago. i thawed it out and it hasn't done it since. don't know what happened. it is also possible the timer motor is failing and got stuck on the water valve opening.
note that there are little holes in the front to stick meter probes in to to see what is happening with it in place
0 -
Thanks. I found them on eBay, too,
I used the holes to verify the resistance reading.
Did the arm get moved out of position? I'm not sure what is the chicken or the egg.
0 -
Bag of ice at the corner store LOL.
I have a fridge with an icemaker but it is not hooked up. I know if it is not hooked up and the ice maker arm is not in the off position it can drive the fridge a little crazy. I have seen this before on other fridge.
That's the problem with new equipment. You get a circuit board with a bunch of wires and the MFG doesn't give you a sequence of operation so your left trying to figure out what is going on
1 -
This morning I informed my wife I want to try to "fix" it once. She then commented about no icemaker. I immediately reminded her the refrigerator has a freezer compartment, the refrigerator in the garage has a freezer compartment and the brand spanking new upright freezer in the garage is a freezer.
I didn't mention that a convenience store is within walking distance….needed to prevent having my head chopped off.
She looked in the basement for ice cube trays and didn't find any.
By the way for all the parents and grandparents, one of my granddaughters has one of those rubbery fidgit thingys. They are great for mini slushies, barely big enough to fill a tooth cavity!
0 -
i'm pretty sure whirlpool acquired that design from seeger when they bought them in like 1960. i'm not sur if there is a pcb in there or if it is just metal strips in the plastic but there is no microprocessor control of the ice maker, it is just a timer run by the motor that flips the cubes out of the ice mold. it may have a contact or a thermostat that asks the refrigerator to run to freeze the ice. I suppose that would get weird if the duct that directs cold air on the ice mold is out of position.
0 -
I don't see any duct for cold air to circulate around the mold. The arm I show in the picture is at the bottom of the bin assembly. It looks like it rotates to close off an opening for cubes and directs the cubes to the crusher.
I don't fully comprehend how the thermostat, fill valve, fill arm and ejection motor interact. Obviously, the fill arm has to sense the need for more ice, then the fill valve actuates for a specific period of time (not volume), when the ice is frozen, the heater comes on to loosen the cubes and the motor turns the "fingers" to remove the cubes from the mold and let them fall into the ice tray (referred to on the web as ice bucket).
0 -
You should be able to find the service/installation instructions for that ice maker somewhere.
The arm at the bottom of the ice bucket doesn't have anything to do with the icemaker, it is part of the dispenser in the door.
The arm at the top right of the icemaker is what controls if it ejects cubes or not. If it is down far enough when the cubes freeze it starts another cycle. If the ice or the stop is holding it up, it doesn't cycle.
The duct may just be a cutout in the back partition or the way the vents are oriented in the back of the freezer compartment. My side by side has a little duct that snaps in to the back partition that directs cold air on the ice mold.
0 -
I found this web page. It appears to be the same design as mine, but mine has a 260 watt heater on the label and the motor resistance is around 6500 ohms by the multimeter..
0 -
I haven't found a Maytag specific sheet. But what I have found is probably equivalent, except for the ratings of the motor and heater.
0 -
That top part of that page is the tech sheet for that ice maker. I doubt that the fridge is maytag specific, whirlpool probably sells it as several different brands with minor cosmetic differences.
0 -
I reinstalled the icemaker and bin. The fill valve operated for the expected amount of time. Now it's just wait and see what happens.
0 -
The last time I bought a refrigerator the salesman asked me if I wanted an extended warranty. When I said no, he said, "eighty percent of refrigerators with icemakers need a service call in the first three years."
"OK," I said. "Get me one without an icemaker."
2 -
i probably would have just left
0 -
First cubes at 12:45, note the gap between them on the right and no gap on the left. If you look from the top of the cubes the ice is higher on that side.
The icemaker refilled and dropped another load at 3:08. After it did, I pulled out the bin to see the cubes and when I removed the bin, water dripped from the icemaker. See the pic above.
Conclusion seems to be there is too much fill water going to the mold. I will check a few more loads, to see if it settles out to the right amount or if I have to adjust the fill amount.
0 -
He's probably right.
They're garbage.
And gone where? Every place has the same junk.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
0 -
probably online, but to someone that wasn't trying to upsell me a scam.
1 -
yeah, it shouldn't be connected like that. make sure it is level too. put the arm up and put a little cup or something under the fill tube, make sure the fill valve is holding
0 -
I'll see how much excess water/ice comes out in the next load. In the mean time I will find a replacement valve, but I am going to change the water filter. I have one on hand. It's a bit embarrassing, but it was installed 7/10/2021!!!! Supposed to be changed every 200 gallons.
Self inflicted wound…maybe the valve weeps, then stops and changing the filter might make a difference…I think I am kidding myself, but it needs to be done anyhow.
More to follow.
0 -
4 years for a water valve isn't very long. that is something where you can buy the same part off the same line for $100 with a whirlpool logo or elsewhere for $8
0 -
4 years for the water filter. I should have been more clear. The valve is original.
0 -
And you wonder why this guy is unemployed.
…the one time there is a service call on a Maytag, and no one suggested "Call the Maytag Man"
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
1 -
because he was too busy with their front load washers. now he is just another whirlpool brand
2 -
OK, so here I am 3-1/2 months later. I have not solved the problem.
I replaced the icemaker unit with an exact part number match. I still got water in the ice bin/bucket that froze.
Today I replaced the inlet water valve under the assumption the original might be slow in closing and allowing excess water into the icemaker. On the first batch, cubes still melting there was water in the bottom of the bin. I measured 15ml. Historically speaking, I don't recall there being water in the bin up until I started this quest.
The second batch is now being frozen.
0 -
12:08 second batch, 8 nice looking cubes, no water.
0 -
what is the water supply pressure?
it measures the water by opening the valve for a certain time. if the pressure is high you will get too much water. there is an adjustment for the time under the cover. there used to be a lever or knob on the side.
0 -
1:10 third batch, 8 cubes, frozen water in bin
0 -
2 more batches, same result
0 -
I checked the house pressure and it is consistently pretty close around 62psig. The town water tower is less than a mile from my house, almost visible through the trees.
On the original icemaker I tweaked the tiny nylon screw (I can't believe how flimsy it is), the first load was 110ml, then the second was the same as if I hadn't changed the setting. I have a tech sheet on the icemaker and it cautions about adjusting the flow only half a turn and to not override the stops. One day I took the cover off to see what the innards look like only to discover water inside. That caused me to be concerned about shorting or corrosion affecting the unit, so I bought a second one a few weeks ago. It performed exactly the same as the original, so the problem was not solved.
There is no evidence of lime buildup in the inlet valve, but it is not possible to be sure until the valve is disassembled. I'm not ready to do that just yet.
I tried to get tech support from Maytag and they said they don't do it, just make a service appointment. Bummer, but understood…unhappily.
A local Maytag dealer said they only service units they sell. Since I bought it at Lowe's in 2011ish, I am out of luck there. Other shops are doing the same around where I live. Probably a combination of volume of work and ability to keep competent staff to do the work.
There is a second hand appliance company in Schenectady where I got my washer and dryer for my rental. I don't want one of those modern washers that get unbalance errors all the time, like the LG we have. Plain old agitator is better and since it's use by the tenants is free, they don't care. My operating cost for them is unknown, but it makes for happier tenants. Worth it man times over.
I think my next step is to call another dealer that I bought a dishwasher from several years ago. Its a small shop that has been in business for years and I have had good luck with them. They are just a bit further away.
I like working on machines, and have a hard time accepting not being able to get to the root cause and save myself some money, plus it helps keep my brain sharper.
Thanks for the comments.
0 -
many times over,
0 -
Give up and buy some Ice Cube trays.
1 -
There are appliance repair facebook groups, there is automaticwasher, there are a few others. @ChrisJ should be able to tell you where to ask.
If you look at the ice mold, is it overflowing after a fill? Is the fridge way out of level? is the cabinet bent or something such that the icemaker isn't level?
0 -
The groups I'm in are aimed at refrigerators a little bit older than 2011. Typically 1920s-60s.
My own knowledge is mostly 1933-1940.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
0 -
U tube "TMM Appliance Network" I think is really good.
0 -
to be fair, they've been making that design since the 60's.
watch it as it defrosts, dumps, and fills and see what happens or stick a phone and an led light in there recording. if it is overfilling, figure out where the orifice is that regulates the flow. of it is running over one corner, figure out why it isn't level.
0 -
Hi, I have a Maytag MFI series French door refrigerator and had a similar problem. The ice tray would freeze up after a short period of time. In my fridge the main solenoid (water) valve is located at a low point behind the fridge and feeds water to a secondary dual solenoid valve that supplies water to either the ice maker or water dispenser. it seems that the secondary ice maker solenoid was leaking through when pressurized while filling a glass of water. I replaced the dual solenoid valve in January and it has been working fine ever since. In my unit the dual solenoid is behind/below the water filter on the upper right side of the refrigerator and I found a video on the web showing how to access and replace it. Some models appear to have just dual solenoids in different locations so try to download a schematic for your specific fridge from an appliance parts distributor as it could be of a similar design and cause of the problem. Good luck!
1 -
always pays to look at the parts diagram
0 -
Mine is a MFX2571XEM1 and has the same arrangement. I replace the dual valve as mentioned above.
When this started happening, I checked the level of the refrigerator cabinet at the top of the unit. It was dead on level. In one of the earlier runs, the cubes were different sizes from one end of the mold to the other, hinting at a level problem. I speculated wildly that my house had moved in the spring (no pun intended) and was now out of level. I have no idea how level the refrigerator was a year ago, when everything was fine.
Since replacing both the icemaker and the dual valve, individual runs about an hour apart show the following amounts of water (ccs) in cubes (after melting) and in the bin (both water and ice).
Run Cubes Bin
1 125 15
2 110 0
3 100 30
4 125 4
5 125 16
6 120 10
7 120 12
I found a icemaker service sheet at https://www.needapplianceparts.com/howtotestaicemaker.aspx, which says the proper amount of fill is 140ccs.
The totals are pretty close and each cube in a batch of 8 cubes are the same, unlike when this all started.
I dreamed up a wacky idea that maybe the heater is on too long before dumping the cubes causing an overflow to the bin and excessively wet cubes on the dump. I took readings on the original icemaker heater and compared them to what is on the service sheet. They seem reasonable.
I started looking for a matching replacement refrigerator, but have a constraint that the height has to be less than 68 5/8", because there is a cabinet above the refrigerator. I can trim maybe half an inch off the bottom of the cabinet to counteract the fact that we added a layer of hard laminate flooring in the kitchen in 1999 taking up some of the vertical distance to the cabinet.
The Maytag, Whirlpool, Kitchen Aid (all from the same corporation) as well as a GE model had at least 10% 1 star ratings about reliability problems, etc., within a few months. The refrigerator is a 22.7 cuft 2 french doors and 2 drawers with ice and water dispensers in the left side french door…. The comments don't seem to be from the typical idiotic rants of buyers that you find in lots of equipment ratings.
I'm not sure what a Maytag service person would do based on these findings and how much time would be spent guessing.
Lastly, the only difference between the original setup and the new one with a new icemaker and dual valve is the oddity about the difference in size of the cubes from one end to the other of the mold.
Yes, ice cube trays would work, but we are going to sell the house within the next few years and a non-functional icemaker would be an issue.
0 -
I just checked the floor and top of the refrigerator. They are level.
0 -
Did you check the ice mold?
0
Categories
- All Categories
- 87.1K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.2K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 58 Biomass
- 427 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 114 Chimneys & Flues
- 2.1K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.7K Gas Heating
- 111 Geothermal
- 163 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.6K Oil Heating
- 72 Pipe Deterioration
- 1K Plumbing
- 6.4K Radiant Heating
- 393 Solar
- 15.4K Strictly Steam
- 3.4K Thermostats and Controls
- 55 Water Quality
- 47 Industry Classes
- 49 Job Opportunities
- 18 Recall Announcements