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H/W Coil replacement

Robert_H
Robert_H Member Posts: 191
in Oil Heating

I'm replacing the unused H/W coil on a Peerless EC steam that I service, with a blank cover, new gasket and hardware. The original coil cover is disintegrating but the bolts all turn. The I/O manual does not specify a torque spec or specify coating the gasket with anything. so I'm assuming leave the gasket dry and snug the bolts evenly fill and check for leaks. The bolds are stainless so they should be fine.

Any tips based on your experience?

Comments

  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 6,170
    edited June 3

    one issue with stainless bolts is there is no stretch or give. Tell snap before you notice any movement.
    grade 5 bolts are fine.
    Never seize is your friend on the gasket and bolts.

    After a few weeks tighten the bolts again.

    Robert_HEBEBRATT-EdHVACNUTEdTheHeaterMan
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,978

    Agree with @pecmsg

  • BDR529
    BDR529 Member Posts: 341

    Wire wheel the boiler, chase the threads to get the junk out.Grab the stud kit and get washers. Don't hulk them in there. Anti-sieze, little high temp silicone.

    Snug them wait 45 min, get lunch, then snug'em smore.

    Robert_H
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 10,586
    edited June 5

    After about 300 hours of operation snug them again.

    Then again at one year.

    The bolts won't move much but you just want to see if it does… Those gaskets seem to shrink over time. No one ever checks them so in about 3 years they start to leak and in 5 years they look like they are 30 years old. I think 25 foot pounds are tight enough if you need to do the torque wrench thing.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    pecmsgRobert_H
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 6,170
    edited June 5

    I was told by sparky my panel, every few months tighten the connections. It’s amazing how loose they can get on the larger loads in 3, 6, 12 months.
    all from expansion, contraction.

    Robert_H
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 13,054
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1857315#Comment_1857315

    Are you torquing them to the manufacturer's spec? When I tightened most of my neutrals with a torque wrench it was more than I would have put on them with a screwdriver and I could only do it with a straight blade, that combo robertson/straight could never reliably take the spec with a robertson without camming out. I think they designed the part then tested to figure out what torque was needed for it to stay tight over the life of the panelboard 20 years later. I really need to get that combo robertson/straight bit that Milwaukee makes.

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 13,054
    edited June 5

    but back on topic. The gasket material is soft and creeps over time, especially when it is new and when it gets hotter. It should be re-torqued after the first and second and maybe 3rd year. If you made a gasket out of epdm it probably would require less attention but that it also a bit pricey.

    Robert_H
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,978
    edited June 6

    Some receptacles and switches now a Philips or a straight blade don't fit really well. I bought a Klein #731-4 and 732-4. They are like a combo Robertson and straight blade. I can't tell the difference between the two.

    But they fit.

    Why the hell am I still buying tools? I am supposed to be getting rid of stuff.

    Robert_Hmattmia2
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,978

    We were always told with electrical stuff to tighten them then go back later and tighten again.

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