Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

dealing with twists in the pex , not staple up. I have Omega extrusions now. YAY!

2»

Comments

  • AlaskaDick
    AlaskaDick Member Posts: 28

    Speaking of the blue plastic, is it necessary that it be removed before staple up heat transfer plates are installed?

  • skyking1
    skyking1 Member Posts: 57

    I don't know the right answer for that.

    We are getting plates up today. Thanks again Bob for the magnet wrist band suggestion. My brother and I are putting them up using gauge blocks off the joist caps, two guns, and scaffolding.

  • skyking1
    skyking1 Member Posts: 57

    'we have about 1000 feet installed so far. We will finish the 1st floor tomorrow and I can take stock on what I might need to order. I can get some upunor locally if needed, but I get the thinfin C for less. It boils down to the shipping quote. I am guessing about 3 boxes shy. Oops.

    PXL_20250525_015823624.jpg
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 25,146

    What is your plan for getting around that beam?

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • skyking1
    skyking1 Member Posts: 57
    edited May 25

    That beam and bearing wall line is a loop divider. I have planned it that way. I have no desire to perforate the stacked beams.

    I ran the plates up to that one and will loop up out of it as close as possible, because it happens to be under the dining room.

    I will plan it so that is the turning end like this.

    image.png

    Upstairs the same beam has a wall over it so not such a deal for getting close to it.

    Update on the screws. They are the bomb! I can quickly drill on through where ever needed in a custom location or from cutting pieces. All threads with no stupid sheet metal drill section means they grab nicely. On setting 1 on the 18V Milwaukee they do not spin out easily. On the little 12V they hammer a bit, safe and predictable.

    @hot_rod

    where did you get those corrugated magnet wrist bands? The ones I have are smooth and I think yours probably holds screws nicer.

    We do a lot of magnet stick pick up from the dropped screws.

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 25,146

    I had a pair of SilverBack fingerless gloves with a magnetic back that worked well also. They finally rotted away and came apart. The combination of wrist band and gloves loads you up with an hours worth of ammo :)

    Screenshot 2025-05-25 at 12.01.43 PM.png Screenshot 2025-05-25 at 12.02.40 PM.png
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    PC7060skyking1
  • RascalOrnery
    RascalOrnery Member Posts: 94

    I put up those thin flashing typew with Staples and screws and all it did was make pinch points and everything else an air gap. I ended up solving it by cutting furring strips to short length to sandwich to the subfloor, also helps prevent downward loss.

    skyking1
  • skyking1
    skyking1 Member Posts: 57

    @hot_rod I made a little pocket tool for putting up extrusion by myself.

    1/2" dowel, drilled it and put a screw 'handle' in it.

    Sanded a flat on it.

    It will hold up one end for me, and I use a gauge block to set the other and get a screw in it.

    Come back, put a screw there and then rotate the dowel till the flat is vertical and it comes out easily.

    PXL_20250526_182819879.jpg

    Big shout out to Radiant Design and Supply in Bozeman. I have spoken to several different people there, and will not single out anyone because they have all been great and helpful.

    I came up 32 pieces short and they are sending 32 pieces, not two boxes of 20.

    They had some seconds with minor surface corrosion from outside storage. I do not care what it looks like once the sheet rock is up. That saved me some money. They are also loaning me the air hammer to put the tubing in the channel.

    My 2720 SF home will have 2850 LF of extrusion, once I omit closet floors and the staircase and elevator shaft and under cabinets, bathtub, etc. I have 4000' of PEX coming.

    My plan is to work the loops under ~200' total length as best I can. My first floor will get 2x6 manifolds, and the 2nd floor will get 2x4. The up and down manifolds are co-located in the same closets at either end of the house.

    This will minimize deadheading, With the 3/8" I get to buy a few more manifold ports. This is not a big deal to me, as you all turned me on to ODR and letting it run, and not monkeying around with bunches of thermostats and zone control valves. That is where the money is at.

    The east and west end bays are tight because they include the 2x6 wall above. I could have cheaped out there but it was a natural to put in two tight runs under those windows. Every full joist space has two runs.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,915

    What about the lath screws or the little screws they use on metal studs?

  • skyking1
    skyking1 Member Posts: 57

    They lose some threads on the drilling portion. These screws are sharp and designed for wood.

    https://www.homedecorhardware.com/hf-010-82-963.html

    Note, I paid 19.31 a box. The price went up.

Categories