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Electric Anode rods

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Comments

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,596

    the rod on my old tank was just what looked like about 18" of calcium around the wire core.

  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 153

    ok, yes I have a heat exchanger, also I should have noted I pulled that rod to install an aluminum rod. A short time later I reinstalled this rod, not sure that matters???

    This photo is of the top. What do you guys suggest? I would prefer to avoid a powered rod for now if possible.

    I don't have any data on my water. It is filtered three times and then a large carbon block. After that a water softener.

    IMG_3989.jpeg
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,596

    aluminum hydroxide or magnesium hydroxide depending on what the rod is made out of. They aren't super soluble and make kind of a slimy goo.

  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 153

    Thanks

  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 153

    So I'm reading this coating is likely Calcium carbonate. But can't find out why it forms or how to deal with it.

    If I were to install a powered rod would this still happen?

    Am I going to have to remove and clean the rod on a regular basis regardless of what I install?

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,596

    If the calcium carbonate is conductive it shouldn't affect operation. The platinum is probably to discourage it from bonding to the anode.

  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 153
    edited May 1

    Platinum ? Well it doesn't seem to be working.

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,596

    The powered anode is platinum, or at least the corro proctec one is. I suspect that is why it is so expensive.

  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 153
    edited May 1

    Ah , I understand now , however they list as Titanium.

    Either way better..

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,596

    maybe it is titanium. i knew it was some expensive low reactivity metal.

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 7,621

    That one and the off brands all say titanium

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    hunter29
  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 153
    edited May 1

    Bumping this, I am wondering about this resister issue. Can one be purchased without a resister?

    Can't find any info about it.

  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 153
  • Larry Weingarten
    Larry Weingarten Member Posts: 3,817
    edited May 2

    Hi, It's mostly Rheem and it's sub-brands that use the resistor. It looks like the anode you used does have a weld bump on top. However, all of that teflon tape might be interfering with a good electrical connection between anode and tank. When you install a new magnesium (not aluminum) rod, try putting a volt-ohm meter in the one ohm setting and see if you have good continuity between the hex head and the tank.

    Here's the bump I look for.

    anode-1.jpg

    Yours, Larry

  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 153

    The tape looks worse than it is, I should remove that upper part.

    Good point thou, I did not think about that. I will check it.

  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 153
    edited May 2

    I can't take a ohm reading but I do have continuity, checked in a few places around the heater.

    But that doesn't mean It did before.

    Guess that's all we can discuss, I'll likely order a powered rod next week and be done with this.

    Thanks everyone for all of your help!!!

  • Intplm.
    Intplm. Member Posts: 2,620

    A good idea. And when your older tank finally leaks, I can't think of any reason you wouldn't be able to swap out the powered rod from the old to the new. It should be a good investment.

    mattmia2Larry Weingarten
  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 153

    Should be, I just hope I don't make that move soon, lol