Electric Anode rods
Comments
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the rod on my old tank was just what looked like about 18" of calcium around the wire core.
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ok, yes I have a heat exchanger, also I should have noted I pulled that rod to install an aluminum rod. A short time later I reinstalled this rod, not sure that matters???
This photo is of the top. What do you guys suggest? I would prefer to avoid a powered rod for now if possible.
I don't have any data on my water. It is filtered three times and then a large carbon block. After that a water softener.
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AIOh MgOH. ???
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aluminum hydroxide or magnesium hydroxide depending on what the rod is made out of. They aren't super soluble and make kind of a slimy goo.
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Thanks
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So I'm reading this coating is likely Calcium carbonate. But can't find out why it forms or how to deal with it.
If I were to install a powered rod would this still happen?
Am I going to have to remove and clean the rod on a regular basis regardless of what I install?
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If the calcium carbonate is conductive it shouldn't affect operation. The platinum is probably to discourage it from bonding to the anode.
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Platinum ? Well it doesn't seem to be working.
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The powered anode is platinum, or at least the corro proctec one is. I suspect that is why it is so expensive.
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Ah , I understand now , however they list as Titanium.
Either way better..
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maybe it is titanium. i knew it was some expensive low reactivity metal.
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That one and the off brands all say titanium
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Bumping this, I am wondering about this resister issue. Can one be purchased without a resister?
Can't find any info about it.
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Hi, It's mostly Rheem and it's sub-brands that use the resistor. It looks like the anode you used does have a weld bump on top. However, all of that teflon tape might be interfering with a good electrical connection between anode and tank. When you install a new magnesium (not aluminum) rod, try putting a volt-ohm meter in the one ohm setting and see if you have good continuity between the hex head and the tank.
Here's the bump I look for.
Yours, Larry
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The tape looks worse than it is, I should remove that upper part.
Good point thou, I did not think about that. I will check it.
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I can't take a ohm reading but I do have continuity, checked in a few places around the heater.
But that doesn't mean It did before.
Guess that's all we can discuss, I'll likely order a powered rod next week and be done with this.
Thanks everyone for all of your help!!!
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Should be, I just hope I don't make that move soon, lol
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