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A2W efficiency and calculating BTUh per SqFt....

CWHudson
CWHudson Member Posts: 4

Just finished a new single story ranch style build with A2W mono-block pushing 95F into a 2400SF slab in CZ4marine (Oregon).

The heating system has been churning away for a few months now.  I have instrumented the HP to learn/document my consumption using Emporia.  I am plotting my daily electrical consumption per degree day and get a pretty straight line showing about 1.1kWh per degree day needed for my structure to maintain 70F across varied outside temps over the past 3 months of winter weather. 

My Manual J analysis performed in LoopCAD estimated 25.4K BTU/hr at 30F design temp.   My coldest day back in February was 26F with a corresponding hourly electrical load of 1.75kWh…. multiplying kWh by 3412 yields 5830 BTUh ignoring the COP of the heat pump. If the Manual J was done accurately, does that imply a COP around 4.3 at 26F? And should this line tilt as COP efficiency decreases as temps lower?

And thinking about my heating load….. I have taken my daily electrical consumption divided by 24 to get an hourly average kWh. Then multiplied by 3412 to calculate BTUh and then divided by my 2400SF footprint. This shows my structure needing between 1 and 2.5 BTUh per square foot to maintain my 70F interior temp. Have I twisted an equation somewhere? Forgotten to multiply by Pi? I never thought my heat loss would be this low!

A sanity check at the monthly level… my local airport published degree day data for February shows 517 degree days and my HP consumed 545kWh during the same period…. an average of 1.1kWh per degree day. The 545kWh consumed during February divided by 28 days & 24 hours yields a continuous hourly average 0.811kWh. Again, multiplying kWh by 3412…. shows less than 3000 BTUh for my structure of 2400 square feet… an average of 1.1 BTUh per sq ft for every hour of February.

It's a tight build (0.3ACH100) with R60 ceiling and R30 walls but I have 31 windows (16% glazing). The ERV is pretty efficient but something seems light with my calculations. Where are the holes in my math?

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Comments

  • jesmed1
    jesmed1 Member Posts: 1,167
    edited March 12

    @CWHudson said:

    "This shows my structure needing between 1 and 2.5 BTUh per square foot to maintain my 70F interior temp."

    As you know, that's your electrical usage converted directly to BTU, before applying the COP. If your average COP is, say 3.5, then your actual heat loss was between 3.5 BTU/hr/sq ft and 8.75 BTU/hr/sq ft. That doesn't sound unreasonable to me given your highly insulated, tight envelope and your relatively mild climate.

    "an average of 1.1 BTUh per sq ft for every hour of February."

    Again, that's before applying the COP. So if your average COP was 3.5, your envelope lost an average of about 4 BTU/hr/sq ft. Again, very good, but believable for your envelope and climate.

    For a rough comparison, here in the Boston area, in a 100-year-old house with some envelope upgrades, we lost about 10 BTU/hr/sq ft average, with about 70% more HDD's than you. After correcting for HDD's, your envelope in my climate would have lost about 7 BTU/hr/sq ft, so your much better insulated envelope loses 30% less heat than mine, which is believable.

    If you say what make/model heat pump you have, that would help to know what actual COP you are probably getting.

    bjohnhy
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 5,799

    Add more for the Outside air requirements!

    1 complete air change every 3 - 4 hours.

  • bjohnhy
    bjohnhy Member Posts: 107

    When trying to calculate your home's heat loss, you also have to consider your total electricity used, not just what the heat pump uses. All the other electric energy (fridge, microwave, heat pump dryer, vampire losses, lights) also goes into heating the house. This "wasted" heat energy becomes proportionly larger factor for a tight home like yours. At your low levels, even wasted body heat becomes a nonsignificant factor. If I'm home all day I add about 2.5kwh+ of heat to the house, depending how many trips to fridge I make.

  • Hot_water_fan
    Hot_water_fan Member Posts: 2,156
    edited March 12

    Nice! Is the 95F at all temps? Or with a outdoor reset curve? Try lower!

    I’m also at 1.1kwh/HDD. While everything about a heat pump should be nonlinear, my kWh/hdd too is pretty flat as outdoor temps change. Looks a bit more like a furnace than I expected.

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 24,713

    Refrigerators, computers dishwashers, lights, pets, people, solar gains, all add BTUs to the space. With loads in the single digits (btu/sq ft) you barely need a heat source:)

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • CWHudson
    CWHudson Member Posts: 4

    Thanks team…. I appreciate everyone's expertise. Long live low temp hydronics!

    Determining COP is a challenge as manufacturers always spec performance at 45F (7C). My HP is a heatSTAR 12kW monoblock with R32 refrigerant : Model PAVH-12V1FEB manufactured by Amitime Electric from Guangdong Province, China. Spec is COP = 4.3 rated at 7C. My actual above was 26F (-3C) where I estimated COP at 4.3. I just expected a roll off in performance. Here is my earlier BTUh graph adjusted with a COP at 4.3

    The "Hydro Control Unit" has lots of software options… a 5 point heating curve as well as 5 point cooling curve. Both have their own DeltaT providing hysteresis on Compressor start temp as well as how often you check buffer tank temps. So, the outdoor reset drives Buffer tank temp (checked every 20 minutes) with 6C hysteresis using the following curve. The Manual J design was based around driving 95F into the floor for a 30F day. My Tstat is set at 70 and my slab sensors show 73F. I've just been playing a guessing game on this curve and appreciate any coaching.

    My ERV is a Broan B160E75RS and I am amazed at the both quietness and efficiency. Spec is 75% but I've taken IR thermometer measurements at fresh air port that are just 3-4F lower than the stale air intake port and that was during a 30F outside temp day. That implies about 90% efficient! The benefit of radiant floors is the ceiling temp is maybe 66F. The controller has a built in "smart" mode that adjusts CFM based on indoor/outdoor temps and humidity. Mostly it's running at 40CFM with occasional increases…. So whole house air changes occur about every 8-9 hours (2.8 daily for 2 adults and a dog).

    Never thought I would appreciate the "wasted" heat energy coming from the fridge & freezer. Next time I get a beer from the fridge, do I take my time and leave the door open longer hoping the compressor kicks on? Hmmm… did all that cold air negate the heat gains from the compressor? A true quandary that requires a cold one to contemplate further.😉

  • DCContrarian
    DCContrarian Member Posts: 1,085

    It looks like you did a good job with insulating your house and your heat pump is running well.

    How are you measuring electricity usage?

    Other manufacturers will provide more information about performance at different temperatures. The key factor is the temperature delta between outside and water temperature. This is a chart I made using Chiltrix performance data. The x-axis is temperature delta and the y-axis is COP.

    These are all at 100% output. Generally COP improves as output is reduced, modulating heat pumps tend to have higher COP at their minimum output than their maximum output.

    So there's a triple whammy on COP as temperature declines:

    1. Lower temperature means higher temperature delta.
    2. If you're using outdoor reset, lower temperature means you need hotter water to meet the heating load, which means even higher delta.
    3. Lower temperature means higher heating load, which means that the heat pump runs at a higher output, which also means lower COP.

    So in your calculations you have to have someway of accounting for the variation in COP with temperature to have any accuracy in measuring output. My heat pump will tell me flow and temperature rise on the console, from which I can calculate instantaneous BTU/hr.

    Finally, a semantic note: BTU and Watt are not measuring the same thing. BTU is a unit of energy, Watt is a unit of work, which is energy divided by time. Watts are commonly multiplied by time to get energy, which is where kWh come from. BTU's are frequently divided by time to get work, which is where BTU/hr come from.

    So 1W= 3.412 BTU/hr and 1 Wh=3.412 BTU. There really isn't a unit called a BTUh.

    jesmed1
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 5,799

    That "Heat Energy" from the refrigerator is less then 1:1. The cool air has already left the refrigerator and been replaced by the air you have paid to warm up. The only heat you get is running the compressor motor and thats 30 - 75% efficent depending on the model.

    bjohnhy
  • DCContrarian
    DCContrarian Member Posts: 1,085

    100% of the energy in the electricity used by the refrigerator is released into the interior of the house as heat. Where else would it go?

    bjohnhy
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 5,799
  • DCContrarian
    DCContrarian Member Posts: 1,085

    All of the heat that the refrigerator extracts from the interior of the refrigerator gets returned to the house through the condenser coils. All of the heat that the refrigerator extracts from the interior came from the house originally. The net flow of heat from a refrigerator is the electricity flowing into it.

    Contrast with a heat pump water heater, which extracts heat from the house and then sends the water holding that heat down the drain, never to be seen again. So it removes heat from the house. A refrigerator isn't sending heat anywhere, it's heat neutral except for the electricity consumed.

    bjohnhy
  • Kaos
    Kaos Member Posts: 524

    Was interested to see how it would look and ran the numbers for mine. I don't have a meter on the AWHP so non-heat load had to be estimated. The unit also makes DHW which adds up especially when very cold. The curve looks more of what you would expect with a bit of kick up on the cold end when the aux heat also runs part of the day.

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