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Best Solution for Connecting Copper to Iron Boiler

bassman92
bassman92 Member Posts: 8
in Pipe Deterioration
IMG_4213.jpeg

The picture above is the return line on my boiler, which obviously needs to be replaced.

It’s currently copper ⇒ iron elbow and nipple ⇒ boiler.

Is there a better way to connect this to prevent galvanic corrosion?

As far as I understand, here are my options:

  1. Replace with the same. Replace again when it inevitably corrodes.
  2. Use brass or bronze nipple and elbow. (Will this cause my boiler to corrode faster?)
  3. Use a dielectric union. (But then I need a ground jumper, right? That doesn’t defeat the purpose of the dielectric union?)

Which option is best? Or is there another solution that I’m missing?

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Comments

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,719
    edited March 8

    just use a copper adapter. it is all crusty because it is leaking, not because it is iron to copper.

    if it wasn't an installation issue then you might want to be concerned about the system getting a lot of makeup water or possibly an issue with the electrical system.

    the leak is above your picture somewhere, wherever that crusty trail starts.

    bassman92LRCCBJGroundUpkcopp
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 6,069

    does this system have glycol in it?

    mattmia2Grallertbassman92
  • bassman92
    bassman92 Member Posts: 8
    mattmia2

    There is an a pinhole above it, yes.

    You think copper to iron is a non-issue then?

    Hopefully it’s just that the joint above it wasn’t sweated correctly

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,719

    It was either a bad solder joint or some issue with the water quality in the system. If it has glycol in it, that needs to be maintained or it will become corrosive. that is why @pecmsg asked. Occasionally the potable water that was used to fill the system is very aggressive. If there are small leaks and a lot of fresh water being added to the system, that will cause corrosion. In a closed hot water heating system with reasonable quality fluid connecting copper and steel directly isn't an issue.

    bassman92
  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 8,151

    Boiler? Round? That's a water heater or storage tank...Mad Dog

    Consulting by Mad Dog & Matt Jr.
    pecmsg
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,719

    i think that is just the shadow of the mc

    bassman92
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 2,162
    edited March 9

    Not as much of an issue with a boiler, but code here for potable is to use a brass transition fitting between copper and iron pipe. Wouldn't hurt in any event.

    Water heaters always need dielectric unions.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
    bassman92
  • PC7060
    PC7060 Member Posts: 1,629
    edited March 9

    Believe HTP Pioneers were round tanks similar to potable water heaters.

  • Intplm.
    Intplm. Member Posts: 2,635

    Experience has proven to me that a brass fitting or valve between copper and black pipe is a great transition method. It causes the least amount of issues.

    @bassman92 You can also use a dielectric nipple as a transition fitting.

    neilcdelcrossvbassman92
  • bassman92
    bassman92 Member Posts: 8
    mattmia2

    The system has never had glycol in it as far as I know. It does use well water, so it's possible there is a water quality issue. Besides the one pictured, I don't know of any leaks, although the area below the pressure release valve is sometimes damp—should probably change that out as well.

  • bassman92
    bassman92 Member Posts: 8

    Correct, it is a boiler, definitely rectangle, not round.

  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 6,069

    can you post a pic from further back?

    mattmia2
  • bassman92
    bassman92 Member Posts: 8
    edited March 10

    This makes sense.

    Think I will go with an iron elbow out of the boiler and use this for my transition to copper: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Viega-79260-1-1-4-ProPress-x-Male-Bronze-Adapter-Lead-Free

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,719

    if the relief is dripping it is probably an issue with the expansion tank although the relief valve should be replaced every few years anyhow.

    if the expansion tank is waterlogged and causing the relief valve to blow off when the system is hot that will bring fresh water in to the system and cause corrosion.

    bassman92
  • bassman92
    bassman92 Member Posts: 8
    IMG_4214.jpeg
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 6,069

    the ell on the top is leaking.

    mattmia2bassman92
  • bassman92
    bassman92 Member Posts: 8

    For sure, plan is to replace all the way back to the air purger.

  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 6,069

    can we get a pic of that as well

  • bassman92
    bassman92 Member Posts: 8
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1847498#Comment_1847498

    From the opposite side. That leaking elbow is just out of the frame to the left.

    IMG_4262.jpeg

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