Please help me with my old Utica boiler
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I have a very old Utica Boiler that has the expansion tank in the basement ceiling. So my pressure is going passed 30 and water is dripping out of my emergency release valve behind my boiler. My expansion tank does not have a bike valve. It is old and red, looks like steel. The last guy that came here fixed it but charged me 300 to just drain the expansion tank. I want to learn how to fix my own boiler and maintain it. Please help. YouTube is too young for my Utica boiler. There is not one video that shows my boiler. It’s that old.
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The expansion tank is key here. It's probably waterlogged, and will need to be drained so the air cushion is restored. Close the red-handled valve in the pipe leading to the tank, and open the drain- it will probably go "glup, glup" for a while as water is drained and air goes back in.
You can get a "tank drainer" to replace the drain that will let air back in more quickly, making this chore easier. Also, an Airtrol fitting where the line connects to the tank will help maintain the air cushion.
Where are you located? We might know someone who can help…………………All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting1 -
I am on long island NY.
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thank you both. I lowered my heat upstairs to 62. Just trying to avoid any damage for the remainder of the night. This something I’m going to have to adress tomm at 2:30 when I get home. I’m going to share a couple of photos going from my boiler to the expansion tank. And thank you both for the tips. Much appreciated.
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Go here:
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting1 -
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steam head when you say shut supply off too tank you mean the expansion tank correct? Sorry for lack of knowledge, this is my first time owning a home. I’d like to fix what I can. But I will
Pay if it’s too involved. Shut that orange handle valve and drain red expansion tank valve where i have black hose attached? Then blow air into expansion tank? Should I shut boiler off completely? I know these are probably stupid questions lol. I apologize
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Shut down the boiler and close the orange valve. Remove the hose from the drain, and drain directly into a 5 gallon bucket. Have a second one handy so you can keep the draining operation going while you dump the first bucket. It will take a while. When the tank stops draining and "glup"ing, close the drain, open the valve and restart the boiler.
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
What @Steamhead said. Plus keep your eye on the boiler pressure. When the boiler is cold the pressure should be 12-15psi. As the boiler heats up the pressure may go to 20-25. This is normal pressure variation as the boiler heats and then cools off
As long as the pressure doesn't rise over 25 or so and maintains a minimum of 12 psi you should be ok.
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If its your first time owning a home, you may not know the oil burner NEEDS yearly maintenance, and the whole system inspected. If you had a service agreement with the company on the sticker near the tridicator gauge, they would have drained the tank for free.
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Just to add a clarifying note: there is no need to blow air into that compression tank (the correct term). Just close the drain when it's empty and reopen the valve to the system and add — slowly — just enough water to the system to bring it to 12 psig or so. The tank will take care of itself as to having enough air in it.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England1 -
Try this, turn off the valve to the expansion tank (the valve with the orange handle). Open the valve on the bottom of the tank that has the red handle and the hose. Water should drain from the hose. When the water stops flowing from the hose, open that little serrated cap on the side of the valve with the orange handle, slowly. If water runs out of that serrated cap, the guy that installed that valve has it in backwards. It should suck in air if it is installed correctly. If it sucks in air as it should that will allow the tank to drain . It may take a long time. When the tank is empty, close the serrated cap, close the valve with the red handle, then open the valve with the orange handle. If all goes okay you will be back in business, as we say. If that serrated cap does not suck as it should, just let the hose drain as best it can by gulping air. Then you can call one of the contractors/service techs listed on this site and have your system corrected as necessary. These older systems usually do not need a lot of service but they do need some TLC.
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where in Long Island?
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ON Long Island.
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You guys are very nice, but you may be supplying just enough info for trouble. Call a pro. You can't learn how to properly and SAFELY service heating equipment casually. It takes years of dedicated training and experience. Would you want me to 'learn" how to do surgery on you?
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All well and good @techforlife , but it is just draining a compression tank. That's pretty typical homeowner stuff.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.2 -
O.K. I guess I was just being over cautious. I've been to too many customer induced flooded basements.
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