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Are these my main vents? What to replace them with?

Jusscurio
Jusscurio Member Posts: 8
edited January 30 in Strictly Steam
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Hi All,

Total noob to Steam here. I don’t think these mains are working as I never hear them or feel air coming out. I want to replace them but I’m not sure what to buy? I hear Gorton is good. Would I get (2) Gorton No 1s, (2) Gorton No 2s, a mix? If I got a mix which one would go on which pipe?

I have one pipe rads and live on the 3rd floor of a 3 family building. We all have separate heating so it just goes to my floor. I have 5 rads.

Comments

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 7,309
    edited January 30

    It depends on the size and length of your mains as to the capacity of venting you need.

    But having said that, I would buy two Maid O Mist #1 vents, or two Gorton #1 vents (they are almost identical) from supplyhouse.com and call it good. They will vent a lot of air for you. You might even notice an improvement!

    PS: yes, those are your main vents, and yes they are old and should be replaced

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 10,170
    edited January 30

    All the other photographs look like Main Vents that let the air out of the main pipes so that the steam can get into the mains. This picture is not one of those.

    Screenshot 2025-01-30 at 12.11.42 PM.png

    This is an exhaust vent with an automatic vent damper that will shut when the burners are not operating. that way the chimney draft will not pull so much heat from inside the boiler when the burners are not operating. That vent has nothing to do with getting air out of the piping system so that the steam can get into the radiators faster.

    As far as getting the proper air vents for your steam mains, there are others that can help you better than I. I like to call on @ethicalpaul for this type of question. You may also want to purchase this book https://heatinghelp.com/store/detail/we-got-steam-heat-a-homeowners-guide-to-peaceful-coexistence/ from the store in this site.

    EDIT: looks like Paul beat me to the "Save Comment" button.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    ethicalpaul
  • Jusscurio
    Jusscurio Member Posts: 8
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1839021#Comment_1839021

    Thanks Paul, I’ll pick up those vents!

  • Jusscurio
    Jusscurio Member Posts: 8
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1839029#Comment_1839029

    Thanks Ed! I still have a lot to learn. I’ll definitely pick up that book.

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,619

    @Jusscurio , before you buy anything, measure the length and diameter of your mains and post the figures here. Those #1 vents might be the right size, but also might not be.

    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • Jusscurio
    Jusscurio Member Posts: 8

    @Steamhead , hope these were the right pipes to measure. They are both about 16.5’ to 17’ from the top of the boiler to the main vents. Also added a couple more photos to see more of the pipes and photos of the main vents. Looks like I need 1/8” main vents. I couldn’t get the metal off the left one so now sure how I’m gonna put the new vent on.

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  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,619

    You need better wrenches for the one that didn't come out, with more leverage.

    Get two Gorton #D 1/8" straight (or vertical, same thing) vents and install them where those Dole #1933 vents are. They have the same openings but you won't have to change the piping.

    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • Jusscurio
    Jusscurio Member Posts: 8
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1839134#Comment_1839134

    Awesome, thank you! Another question. Would it be worth it to put insulation on this 2”-2.5” pipe above my boiler? I’m getting some for the 1.5” pipe under the main in that pic but didn’t know if wrapping that bigger pipe would matter.

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  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,619

    Yes.

    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
    bburd
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 7,309
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1839134#Comment_1839134

    But why get a 1/8 when he already has the bushings off? There are many roads to success here

    image.png

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • Jusscurio
    Jusscurio Member Posts: 8

    You guys have been super helpful so far, thank you. Got another one for y’all. The valve here was hissing and water was coming out. I closed the valve, took off the packing nut, put some ptfe rope in there and the nut back on but now I can’t reopen the valve cause the cap broke. I can screw the cap back on but it doesn’t catch that little bar so the valve won’t turn at all. Any ideas on any tools I can use to turn that? Or a place I could buy a new cap? Looks like it says Webstone but I can’t find this part on their website.

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  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,780

    Does that brass collar have a screw in the middle or a set screw on the side? I think that is some sort of repair handle.

  • Jusscurio
    Jusscurio Member Posts: 8

    A screw goes through the top of the cap, into the top of that valve. Theres a bar going through the middle of the valve that the cap is supposed to have a section cut out for it but as you can see the cap broke so it no longer hugs that bar so it’s unable to turn the valve. You can see the indent a little where the bar is supposed to fit into the cap going from the top to the bottom of the pic. I can’t take the little bar out but that just makes it harder to turn the valve.

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  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,780
    edited February 1

    Is this the top of the stem, is it the same diameter as the hole in the packing nut? There is a style of universal replacement handles that use a little adapter bushing and I think that is the bushing but I can't tell for sure without sing it from the sides.

    Supplyhouse.com has a lot of replacement handles but i'm not sure about one with a pin through it.

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 10,170

    Try Amazon.com

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • Jusscurio
    Jusscurio Member Posts: 8

    Can’t believe I didn’t think of this before. I have matching radiators in the bedrooms. I went to the other bedroom, took the cap off and it’s exactly the same as the other, so I put it on the radiator with the broken cap and was able to open the valve all the way. I’ll still pick up one of those universal ones and see if they will work but at least the valves open now. Thanks again everyone!

    bburd

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