Two pipe vapor system with vapor stat: to cycle or not to cycle?
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My two pipe vapor system now has a new main vent (the saga of the missing main vent can be seen here) and a vaporstat in in parallel with a pressuretrol. The ancient honeywell 77 was replaced in favor of a TH6220WF2006 to have control over cycles per hour (and wifi connectivity ain't bad either).
So the question now is about pressure cut out and if I should be shooting for higher pressures with no cut out or a lower pressure with cycling from the vaporstat.
Current setting is about 22" h2o (~12in/oz) resulting in no cycling from the vapor stat. Setting it lower will of course resulting in some cycling. All of the radiators get hot quick with the 12in/oz setting but the interesting point for me is the main vent. At the 12oz setting the vent vents and then kinda stops/slowly oozes air - steam never reaches it. If I set it any lower, the system cycles when the boiler in an out (the gauge never goes to zero and the main vent doesn't seem to "inhale") the main vent seems much more "active".
That said, I did a little test at 8oz, 10oz, 11oz, and 12 and the results weren't pretty.
8oz = 2:19 from boil on to shut down - 30 seconds off before restart - 1:30 to shut down
10oz = almost identical except it was 1:45 on vs 30 seconds off
11oz = 3:18on
12oz = on until call ends.
It strikes me as too much cycling but wanted an opinion. Also we just got our first full month's gas bill and it was eye watering… we've had a few sub 10º days and this house has stood without any insulation for 120 years… but $650 a month for gas… such pain. I'm curious what the previous owners were paying back when there wasn't a main vent, 3 of the radiators didn't work, and the pressure was set at 3psi! Hudson valley NY, BTW.
Comments
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Wonder what the restriction is that you'd need 12 oz. to not cycle on pressure.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
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Likely the boiler is just too big. We have 2 rooms closed off too which eliminates a bunch of EDR but yeah… pretty sure boiler is too big by about 25%
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2:19 from start of boil to shutdown? No. Something is seriously wrong with the venting. Or, possibly, the piping to the main vent.
You say this is a vapour steam system. How, exactly, are the mains and dry returns vented? I've looked at the previous thread, but it isn't clear to me what was done about main and dry return venting.
The main vent on the dry returns, whether there are crossover traps from the mains to the dry returns or not, should NEVER close — never see steam at all. Once the boiler fires, you can feel the progress of steam along the mains — 20 feet per minute is not a bad sort of ball park figure — and that should be steady progress. If there are vents on the mains, they should close when steam hits them — likewise crossover traps.
I can't help but think that somewhere in there there is a significant restriction — but what it is I couldn't say without really looking at the system.
There is another possibility, however, which has occurred to me. Where are the vapourstat and pressure gauge connected? If they are connected directly to the steam chest — which is the usual connection, through a nipple or through the sight glass — is the vapourstat responding to real system pressure, or is it responding to pressure oscillations in the steam chest? If the pressure gauge is on the same pigtail, is it bouncing around as steam is rising, or is it rising steadily? Note that this is not related to surging water level! If the pressure gauge is bouncing around, it is likely responding to steam pressure variations as bubbles form and burst, not to the steady pressure found in the header — and the mains. This could be the cause of the quick shutdown, as vapourstats are quite sensitive to pressure spikes of this sort. There are ways to cure this problem. The best is to connect the vapourstat and low pressure gauge to the header, not to the boiler. Another is to use a snubber on the pigtail, but that is problematic as snubbers have a way of clogging.
Whatever, it ain't right.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England1 -
If I had to guess, missing or bad crossovers. As @Jamie Hall says, something is restrictive and definitely not right. Absent a restriction elsewhere, steam chest oscillations shouldn't normally trip a vaporstat because the steam chest has a huge outlet to the header and mains.
Tripping because the boiler is too big happens when the traps are hot and closed because there's more input than the rads can condense. That's a lot more then 3 minutes.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.1 -
If the return fitting area of the radiators isn't getting steam hot then the higher pressure is ok. the reason you need a vaporstat on a vapor system is to keep the pressure low enough that the metering device on the radiator limits the amount of steam fed to the radiator to an amount the radiator can fully condense so that it doesn't reach the returns.
The second reason is to keep the differential between the supply and return low enough that steam can't push through the water seals on any drips from the mains and in to the returns. this may or may not apply to your system.
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More pictures of your additions may help. Where was the main vent installed. Even though it seems there is two return paths, is there only one main ?
" the gauge never goes to zero " the original gauge ? It may be broken or plugged up. And even if it went to zero at 12 Oz it would not move much.
Have you installed a low pressure gauge to verify the system and vaporstat operation ?
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
In the other thread Steamhead wrote;
" @motordiscord628 et al, this is a Kriebel system. You can find it in chapter 15 of @DanHolohan 's "The Lost Art of Steam Heating".
"The Vapor Vacuum Heating Company" was the company the Kriebels set up to market their system. It was located in Philly. "
Which seems reasonable to me, so no crossover traps and/or thermostatic radiator traps, just a Union Elbow with a Baffler and a missing Vapor-Vacuum controller.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
It may not have had crossover traps originally, counting on the very slow rampup of a coal fire and venting through the radiators.
That won't work with modern fuel burners — and didn't work all that well them. Crossover traps or vents on the steam mains are required, not optional.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
With the Baffler valve I would think venting would not much of an issue, except the main may not be uniformly filled first. That air needs a place to go to leave the system. So where is the new main vent installed.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
A hoffman has to have a single vent at the differential loop. i don't see how this is different as long as the single return vent is large enough.
or do those always have crossover traps since they are a post steam trap invention vapor system?
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In principle a Hoffman Equipped system could run without crossovers — so long as the rampup in firing rate was slow enough. Whether early ones had them or not, I wouldn't care to say — but radiator traps were, I think, always part of the deal — and since crossovers are the same as radiator traps…
Whatever, though, as you say, the one and only vent on such systems (and a number of others) must be on the dry returns at or very very near the Differential Loop or whatever other widget may be in there. That's what makes them work…
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England1 -
Apologies for the late response, let me see if I can get everyone.
- the new main vent is installed where the red arrow is. It's at the very end of the dry return where the original vacuum vent controller likely would have been. I also installed a strainer for two reasons. 1) so that the pipes that haven't been vented in at least 6 but as many as 16 years don't kick crud into my brand new vent 2) so I could pull the plug and run it straight open for testing. I am super glad I did because some stringy crud absolutely got blown into the trap.
2. the vaporstat and diagnostic manifold is on the header about 18" off the boiler. The vaporstat and the gauges are on individual pigtails and don't see much shaking or surging. You can see that the right gauge is "h2o and this pressure is the system's "stable upper limit".
The vacuum gauges are because I was curious what my leak-down would be under vacuum. It's not great so I'm not going to run the system at vacuum until that's figured out. Isolation valves are there so gauges can be swapped out and sensors put on as needed.
3. The only time that hoffman ever saw steam and shut off was when I tried to vent all of the air and run under vacuum. I did this by opening up the orfice valves in the radiators until they were bypassing steam back to the dry returns. Otherwise, I have all of the radiators balanced so that they get about 80%-90% heated.
4. There are no other vents in the system and the crossover looks like this. No steam trap, just a wet return heading back to the equipment room along the floor of the perimeter of the house. The blue arrow show the direction of the condensate. The end of the dry return is directly above it. The dry return pipe's here are about 3/4".
5. All of the radiators do indeed have functioning baffle traps. I don't have any problems with steam back feeding.
6. I do have some water hammer on a line going to the second floor, about 3-6 taps (not bangs) on start up, but I think this is from the guy that re-did the kitchen 20 year ago removed the insulation in at riser (asbestos) didn't replace it, and I get slugging in the vertical pipe that's basically in my exterior wall. It sounds like a running tap in operation.
7. I had some bangs from the larger radiators but figured out they were heat expansion and contraction issues as the radiators basically moved the pipes. I placed pads of PTFE under the feet and we're sliding around and happy.
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The "running faucet" sounds more like it might be steam and air pushing through the pipe and especially through the vapor valve and telegraphing through the pipe because it is uninsulated. The amount of condensate produced by the pipes should be in the order of drops per second.
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that's a possibility but it sounds to me like what I know as "slugging" where a condensate in a vertical pipe is shot upward in waves. I see it in distillation columns that are brilliantly constructed without insulation. I considered putting another main vent on the end of the supply main but I'm just not sure if that's even an issue since all of the radiators are basically hot at the same time.
All of this is an aside to the issue of my running pressure not being under 22"h2o.
I haven't done a full EDR count but really that's what I've got left - just too much steam for the orifice valves on the radiators and the restriction is creating an increase in pressure.
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Or the valves all need to be open a bit more proportionally and the pressure lower.
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If you have condensate sitting in a vertical pipe you have other issues.
What is your pressure with all the radiator valves all the way open ?
Does the vent actually vent ? Did the screen plug up ?
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
@mattmia2 My understanding was that only 80-90% of the radiator should be utilized to prevent steam from getting into the returns. That's how I've balanced my valves. I honestly don't exactly remember where I got that figure from but it's what I've been doing, checked with an infrared camera.
@109A_5 There's no condensate sitting in the verticals, the condensate is generated in the verticals on start up because those verticals are very cold.
Pressure with the radiators going full tilt is about 15" water (~8ozin) with no tripping. That said they are passing a bunch of steam to the returns and it's the only time I've had the vent shut off. I don't see the reason I'd do this, heating the returns doesn't make much sense, even if the system can take it. Keep in mind this is with 2 large radiators out of the EDR equation and a third entirely removed by the previous owner. Also keep in mind this system used to be running at ~3psi with zero venting.
The screen has not plugged, just got some crap on it, and the vent always gushes air. Then slows, then almost stops.
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Something, somewhere, is amiss if there is any steam in the returns. Traps failed open? If you are depending on the throttling valves, one or more too far open? You 80% figure for throttling valve or orifice controlled radiators is fine (90% is too much) but that must be at full operating pressure (your 8 ounces is fine) and running long enough to get the radiators really truly full — that may take a couple of hours of steady firing.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
I don't have return traps, I have baffles with a swinging check to prevent forward pressure issues. Check out the other posts, its a pretty wild system from the coal days.
The ONLY time I have steam going through is when I'm doing it on purpose with all orifice valves open to full - setting 8. The correct setting is between .5 and 5 depending on the radiator EDR.
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Steam in the returns can cause radiators to not be able to vent and heat or banging so you don't want steam in the returns as @Jamie Hall said. Most vapor valves have some sort of stop or way of positioning the handle or needle valve that allows you to keep them from opening beyond the amount needed for the connected EDR. I think a few systems have different size valve for different sizes of connected EDR.
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- right, which is why I'm here asking about things that might be after exhausting all of that.
TL;DR - EDR too low/boiler too big, steam go wooooooosh.
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