Excited about Boiler Design
Comments
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closed the door to the den and the temp went right back up to 67 F (set at 70). Clearly air infiltration (and chimney effect of rest of the house) is hurting my ability to heat that room. IR gun is next up to try and find more sources of air leaks.
Maybe I will look into renting equipment to DIY insulation. And “great stuff to the rescue where I find air infiltration.
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now temps are up to 49 F and I found the house a little warm. So I reduced most of the schedule temperatures and will let the system run on auto-pilot a few days until we have our next cold spell.
I can hope that the mortar that I added to the big cracks on the outside of the cinder block wall stopped some killer drafts, along with my spray foam into the outlets and all other big cracks.
My daughter picked up 16 cans of great stuff last night. So I will be continuing to seek drafts to stop with foam and caulk.The dirt crawl space is an area I’ve yet to crawl into, but tarps for the ground are likely my next step to be able to crawl into there without getting filthy. Tar paper might be the free solution though.
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Poly tarps are an inexpensive option for crawls. Insulate the walls of the crawl space. Tar paper is messy to kneel on and rips easily.
Air leaks where the plate and rim joist wood framing touches the foundation is "low hanging fruit" for those spray foam cans. Rigid foam board for the rim and joist bay ends, adhered in place with spray foam
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream
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thank you @hot_rod !!
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I am assuming the poly tarps are just like regular tarps with the grommets at the corners. Yes, I should buy those. I wonder if I can get one large enough to not only cover the whole dirt floor, but also go up the brick foundation, with a nice fold in the corner. That could be awesome. 12x18 is the dirt areas. I might only need to add about 2 feet to each dimension to be able to go up the wall. So 14x20 is probably all I need, but maybe it would also be smart to be able to have it divide the concrete area too. So maybe another 2+ feet in length. So I will look for at least 14x22.
It’s surely worth ponying up for the heavy duty version that has a silver side that will help with lighting:Getting OT for boiler design. But I guess this is about reducing drafts, helping assure lower modcon temps will work to heat the house.
I should be at my desk in the basement tomorrow and can keep track of what’s going on with the zones.
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InsulTarp foam blankets are great for this, white side up helps in dark crawl spaces and they insulate the walls nicely
Fairly $$. They are basically concrete blankets.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
a friend of mine has a bunch of tan very thick material that would be ideal, but we both agree that it would probably be too thick and heavy to get in, but it also is cut into widths that are probably less than 10 feet each.
While I want to do this right, it seems like something I could really end up overthinking. So maybe I should just buy a friggin tarp and get into that space and insulating. This one here is 20 ml instead of the 12 ml of the harbor freight and can be had in white too. Returnable and only an additional ~$33 over the harbor freight shipped. .
Back on the zones/ temps. The Den addition zone seems to be doing fine, but when I went around at 8:15 after the morning warm period with the heating schedule was over, the upstairs radiators were cool, the downstairs were still a little warm, but the den radiators were downright toasty, signaling that even these ~40 F temps and a more constant heating rate will require higher radiator temps in the den if I don’t get it better insulated or add additional radiators.
I bet the can lights in the attic are a major source of cold air infiltration still. Maybe I should get a tarp or sheets of some type of plastic to put up there too.
Edit: oh boy. I just got on a ladder to feel. Those can lights sure are letting the cold in. That’s going to be a big one.
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There is a specific way to insulate around can lights that have incandescent bulbs so they don’t get too hot
As for the crawl, insulate the walls, just the tarp for a vapor barrier or to make it cleaner to work down there
Might get a radon test kit down there also. Get them online or at the box stores
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
yes, we run LED bulbs, but you never know if someone will put an incandescent in there. I do plan on making sure it’s fire safe. I need to research that at bit.
Since I setup a basement desk and plan to finish the space, I got an Airthings wave sensor and have been tracking the radon levels. $109 seems well worth it.
We just went above the 1.3 average for the first time over the weekend. We were out at an event and the basement was probably closed off. Interesting.
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on my insulation project I got a new toy this week. I found some new outdoor air blowing right into the bathroom where the floor was done poorly around the radiator. Great stuff to the rescue.
Tarp arrived for crawlspace, nd the second insulation guy showed up, but wasn’t the shape of guy that would have had an easy time getting into the crawl space or attic. I gave him my videos and he said he’d come back with the installation manager. He also said you can’t just blow insulation on top of concrete, but need to install supports under the joists to support insulation. I’m not sure how that’s going to work for the back half of the addition.
I had planned on opening the attic and putting buckets over the can lights, but I found that I had a bunch of LED can light bezels that I installed instead for now. I know they don’t make a seal, but they did really slow down the airflow from the attic a lot. Before there was a cold circle where the light was. Now you c. See whether there’s no insulation around the can light(s).
At this point, I bet it will be after the holidays before I do more insulation work or touch the boiler install stuff. The boiler still doesn’t have a delivery appointment.
The light switch in my stove range broke, and I had to resolver the rheostat wire. I degreased the heck out of it and also worked on the drafts. Great stuff to the rescue there too. I sealed behind all the cabinets near the vent, and I think I’ve stopped all those drafts. We are making lots of progress stopping the drafts. I figured this out, but I posted a video anyway.
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As I was working on painting and hanging 105 year old shutters, restoring 105 year old dried out window sills, and restoring a 105 year old arched wood window, the Combi boilers for the garage and house projects both arrived Thursday. I’ve now got projects lined up for eternity.
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Back of napkin math, in another later post you corrected the length to 20’ of cast iron baseboard. Looking at the Baseray chart from Burnham it looks like with your average water temperature (140-170) you’re getting about 350 btus per foot. So 7000 btus into the space for heat. Rough math you need around 16,000 btus to heat it, currently A deficit of 9000 btus. Now if we look at (130*~140*) water from the new modcon, your looking at about 245btus per linear foot of output. 4,900 btus to heat the space, an 11,000 btu shortage. Could you install (2) Beacon-Morris K120 kick space heaters cut into the floor so it just looks like a register in the floor?
Change the room thermostat to a two stage tstat. Let the first stage control the baseboard heat then let the second stage cycle the kick space heaters on and off to make up the difference? Each kickspace heaters is good for 8875 btus at 120* entering water temperature with the fan on high. That should leave you plenty of head room to just run them on low so they are quiet. Just thinking this might be a fairly simple, relatively inexpensive option to quickly get more heat into the space without taking up a lot of real estate in the room.
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thank you @Mosherd1 ! Yes, I do think it’s going to be interesting to see how it all works out with the modcon. Keeping the door open to that room also helps keep it warmer with just air circulation to the rooms around.
I would love to see how the 3 zones and all rooms perform as a single zone after getting the modcon installed and measure how well each room heats. Ideally, the circulators will run nearly 24/7 on the modcon. So I think when setting the curve, there will be lots of trial and error.
looking at the design of the inside of the combi boiler, it seems the DHW is like a little transmission or oil cooler for a car, and it will surely divert the boiler heating water to the DHW heat exchanger when calling for DHW. So long showers could result in some loss of heating power during those times, maybe the target temp not being met for CH. That is going to be interesting to see how much that effects things.
Totally off topic… I was at my boss’s house where we work in his basement. He keeps the upstairs about 60 F and the cold air blowing out of the air vents was terrible. He has a sofa right under one of them. I don’t know how cold he keeps the basement, but his rack of servers generates some nice heat and helps keep the place warm. I am just so glad to have radiant heat as opposed to forced air. And my neighbors have a terribly noisey heat pump right next to their natural gas generator that runs in maintenance mode for no apparent reason so often. It’s nice to know that my systems aren’t a nuisance to my neighbors. I do understand the value of the heat pump technology and do plan to use some of it in the future.Speaking of heat pump and auxiliary heat, perhaps when I re-duct the first floor AC, I could add some heat-pump heat to the first floor.
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We are having some great test days here with no temps above eezing or several days. I’m able to see my usage up to Monday (2 days back), but I know I jacked up the temps yesterday to help make everyone comfortable. I’ve also been burning th open fire which I know helps suck in extra cold air. So tomorrow might be a good test case. Can’t wait to see that data.
Also, we were away from home ~6 pm 12/31- ~1 pm 1/4, and around noon 1/1 I set all thermostats to 60 F, only about 2 degrees below our current baseline of 62 F. I jack the upstairs temp up to 68-70 in the morning to help get everyone out of bed and moving, and 67 in the dining room for dinner. So there are reasons for some spikes, but it is interesting to see how the hot radiators seem to heat the house in 3 hour cycles when we were away.
On Saturday Jan 4, you can see how I was bumping up the thermostats remotely 1 degree at a time. This probably made no sense bc the current heating system could have warmed the whole house nearly 10 degrees is less than an hour I bet. But you can see how I did 3 bumps that took up up above 1.5 The for the hour.I can see that I’m using more fuel than the new heater can consume, but I’m hoping that with fewer setbacks, and maybe storage tanks, the new system will be able to heat well enough.
One concern regarding wood stoves / fires is if I get too old and feeble to feed the fire, we don’t want to be freezing cold bc the 155k btu Combi can’t keep up. There’s always the option of a pellet stove or space heater to help. That’s probably always going to help keep things most efficient. So I’m not (yet) fearing that the new 155k BTU combi boilers will be a problem, but I could envision some cases.
So thermal batteries / storage tanks will be a smart move I think, at least for the hot water.
The right size storage tanks to work with the outdoor reset might be challenging to find. For example, I can’t oversize it because it might end up spending all its time heating a tank of water for a few cold hours in the middle of the night, needing lower temps most of the day. I don’t know, but I will know this is a spot that could be easy to screw up.
Sizing the DHW storage tank could also be tricky. Too much, and it’s just losing energy all the time. Too small, and we could have issues with flow rates in the showers… unless I set the temp high enough that mixing covers it all. Actually, I guess mixing really is going to have to handle it anyway. Not sure how that will work out either. Hmm…. Well, bigger seems better here, at least at first.
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today is my first day in a long time where I’m working from home alone and the high is 29, low is 17, and even at 2:50 PM and the sun out and shining in my first floor office window, jeans, a sweatshirt, and a beanie hat just isn’t warm enough with the dining room thermostat set to 65 F. I need more to stay warm and do my work.
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updates with last few days. Today, 1/9, he g room with sun shining in was 67 when set to 65 around 11-12 PM, and in order to make my office in the porch of the first floor feel warmer, I upped it to 68. I haven’t fully gotten my basement office together yet, and needed to do work upstairs. When I’m done my migrations, that should help. I also have my wife working from home on the second floor in her office and have her the wall-mount 500 watt space heater my mother in law gave me for her to maybe keep warm working from home this afternoon.
Perhaps the most important thing on this ~6th day that’s barely (if at all) breaking freezing is that we identified ANOTHER location where outdoor air is blowing directly into the house. There’s a set of back stairs that had been partially torn out to create an upstairs laundry room that has never really been used. At the top of the steps at the landing just 3 steps from the second floor, there’s now a coat closet that has unfinished walls. There’s some torn out plaster and lath that must be open to the attic because wind was blowing down completely unfettered. It’s only been about an hour, but I’m waiting to see if the closet (with no heat) and the landing get warmer. I can still feel a significant draft in there that I need to address, maybe working from above could help. Spray foam after clearing out the closet too maybe. I believe that pipe is a vent pipe for the laundry that was added. We done use it bc there’s no dryer vent, and the ventless washer+dryer combo apparently needs significant work. But more importantly, it’s on the side of the center hall that does not have a brick wall support, and is sagging. I don’t think running a shaking front loader washer up there is going to help with that. I’m thinking more and more of making attempts to do some jacking in the basement and maybe. Even on higher floors after the basement work.
anyway. Two more days of natural gas use to report. Notice the 2.2 Therm used in a single hour during morning recovery. That could be a real issue with the combi, meaning I won’t be able to do setbacks like that. Some nighttime setback is nice for cooler sleeping. So I guess we might just need to deal with colder mornings with slower ramp up with a 155k BTU boiler.
EDIT: I see that Natural Gas costs for 2024 were about the same as 2023, but we used significantly more in 2024. It looks like perhaps the worst usage in 2023 was when we didn't even live in the house, but the floor refinishers were running the heat full blast with the windows open. I don't know. I've got the hourly break down for the whole year though.
2023: $3484,10
Total CCF
Annual Cost
1218.61
$ 1,506.52
Total kWh
Annual Cost
15789.24
$ 1,977.58
2024: $3980.44 (we did add an EV in late 2023, so this includes a year of EV charging)
Total CCF
Annual Cost
1486.83
$ 1,521.68
Total kWh
Annual Cost
17945.94
$ 2,458.76
If we are moving from 80% efficiency to 95% efficiency, I can assume we would save about 15% of the total cost, about $228.15 per year. Maybe there could be a bit more with more efficiency gain in the DHW, but I won't count on it.
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95% will only be when the boiler is condensing. So running it a low as possible, always, will be key.
Sealing the house will help keep loads down and hopefully allow those radiators to supply enough heat at 150 or below SWT
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
I pulled this out of the garage for that poorly insulated den addition today. I was going to sell it but then realized it would fit really well under and open desk under the TV. Here it is squeezed in for now. Label says 1500 watts and it does kick some heat. Maybe it’s not that efficient, but it’s probably better than boiler pipes heating the crawl space. I can’t find the model online, so it’s probably an older unit. Anyway, I decided to hang onto the space heaters in case the new boiler can’t keep up. When I’m older, I might not always be able to fire up a wood stove or fire.
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I have one of those in my small kitchen that has no radiator. It's very convenient for supplemental heat in small spaces.
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electric heat is 100% efficient But the cost of electricity makes it an expensive heat option. Unless your power cost is in the single digits? A number of places in the U.S. that electric heat is the best, least expensive option.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
@hot_rod yes, I would never recommend electric resistance heat as a primary heat source, at least not here in the Northeast. But that little 1500 watt fake stove warms the tiny kitchen right up for a half hour while I make coffee, and the 25 cents it costs me to run it once in a while doesn't hurt. Also, those things are super portable, easy to move to a cold spot, and easy to store in the basement in summer.
Can't believe I'm praising what is essentially a large hair dryer with a fake flame here, but when you need a little extra portable heat now and then, you can't beat it with a stick.
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So I went down to the basement to grab a beer and a short break from working for my job tonight around 9:45 pm, and I find the 2001 water heater finally gave up the ghost and flooded the basement. Shop vac work is done. Got the drain draining after disassembling the valve and poking it and now since I have no fittings and a busy day tomorrow, I’m working on trying to create a bypass connection with scraps I’ve got around the house. To not cut anything I was able to in-sweat the end fittings. This basement flood is the very reason I want all the water stuff in the laundry room with the drain, not all the way across the basement. This MIGHT help things pick up speed… maybe.
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well this might be my crappiest plumbing ever, but I’m not expecting it to be like this long. I got these 90’s from scrap pipes in the garage and didn’t think to drain the hot water pipes before having a little steam explosion while trying to sweat these two 90’a on. I finally shut off most of the house besides a powder room and bar sink to let the pressure out through them. Then I worked my way back to the water heater one side of a fitting at a time, assuming water would not get to the up side before I was able to sweat that last half a fitting. Took WAY too long but the family now can shower in the morning.
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If the anode rod in the other heater hasn't ever been replaced, it's on borrowed time too. I suggest replacing the anode rod with a powered electric anode. I put one in our 4-unit condo building's water heater last year. I'm not a heating pro, but some pros here say the powered anode rods do work.
There are a number of mfrs, but I used the Corro-Protec brand which gives you a serial-numbered rod and lets you register it online for the 20-year warranty.
You'll need an 8-amp corded impact wrench (cordless won't have the torque) that you can get cheap from Harbor Freight or Amazon. Plus a 1-1/16" impact socket. Don't waste your time trying to get the old anode out with a socket wrench and cheater bar extension, as it is extremely hard even with a 4-foot cheater bar, and you may end up twisting the heater and stressing/bending the attached pipes. The impact wrench will bust the old anode rod out in 10 seconds, easy peasy.
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and I didn’t even know that natural gas water heaters had anodes. Is it attached to the pressure relief valve?
I am planning on only possibly using the remaining water heater as a storage tank. I would think that the natural gas firing and condensing on the tank is what kills them usually. Is that not true? For this reason, I had had the temp set low (but not totally off) on this second water heater to try and minimize the firing it did due to its age. Maybe it wasn’t low enough. Maybe the lower temp just hastened the failure, or maybe 24 years is a really good run for any water heater, and I should consider myself lucky.
Combi boiler will be doing the majority of the water heating in the new design. Ideally, I will have a heat pump water heater as a storage tank and summer hot water heater. That might come later in my new setup though.
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Even with no flame under the storage tank, the continuous flow of fresh dissolved oxygen in your incoming DHW water will eventually rust the tank from the inside out. A $160 powered anode is cheap life-extension insurance on a $3000 water heater tank.
The old anode is under the white plastic circular cap on the left side of the top of the heater in your photo above. Just for fun, post a photo here of what's left of the old rod when you remove it. All you'll have left is the steel rod "spine" encrusted with some remnant barnacles of the anode material.
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On some water heaters the dip tube and anode are all in one.
Better tanks may have 2 anode rods.
Two ells like that atb the bottom of a crossover can be hard to solder.
Water trickles down if the valves are open. If you close them you build pressure and blow the solder out.
You got them plenty hot😯
Excellent application for SharkGrip ells.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
Our Ruud tank has one anode rod in the dip tube, and a second anode rod port that gives the mfr the option to "upsell" to a second anode rod for a longer warranty. I wasn't here when the tank was installed, but the previous owners bought the tank with the second anode and the longer warranty.
If Bradford White did the same thing, there may or may not be an anode rod under the round white plastic cover. In either case, if it were me, I'd throw a powered anode in there.
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Bradford White use to have a Pro series that had dual anodes. 10 year warranty I believe.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
Yes, our Ruud has a 10-year warranty with the dual anodes. I think without the second anode, the warranty is 6 years. So I guess they figure the second anode adds 4 years? The second anode may actually have more meat on it than the dip tube one.
But when I started replacing with magnesium anodes, I found the anodes were gone in about a year, probably because we use so much hot water (4 condo units drawing from one 75 gallon heater).
Once I realized I was going to have to replace anodes every year, that's when I decided it was time to go powered.
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I can’t find anything replaceable in this one.
https://youtube.com/shorts/9Nz7Me3_yQI?si=QdJCiaMRhXT3sCPGNot sure I got the pressure relief valve so here’s a slightly longer video.
https://youtube.com/shorts/v86z45naa0w?si=Zb1GiTUYnawC3FJB
And then a concept to perhaps get my new boiler connected quickly without draining the entire system. I know it would be a bad idea but it might also enable me another way to tap into the system to flush it too…
https://youtube.com/shorts/wjTZI21xKLo?si=Aw1bDx_BVm_o8Zb8
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Here's how and where to install a powered anode on a Bradford White.
The factory anode is under the hot water outlet pipe nipple, so you need an adapter. If you buy the Corro-Protec powered anode, they will include the adapter IF you click on the correct option when you order (click on the one that says "hot water outlet anode—fits most Bradford White.)
https://www.corroprotec.com/product/water-heater-anode-rod/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SB8VNdqgbbc
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so I went after those nipples and each had white plastic attached, one long with slots. I think that might have been the “cold” inlet, but the left side had nothing left on it. So I flipped over the water heater and was able to get a ~1.5” piece of rod out of it. So I think I did in fact have no anode remaining.
Thank you very much for this video. I really had NO idea.
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on the bottom left is what I assume is a piece of the anode between the pipe wrench and fittings. I broke the “dip tube” (?) trying to figure out if there was anything inside there, you can see to the right of the piece of anode, and just above the piece of anode is the fitting as I pulled it out of the tank.
i wonder if there’s any need or reason to add an anode to boiler water that doesn’t constantly have new hard water running into it. I guess it couldn’t hurt too much to add a fitting somewhere to be able to add one in case it makes sense in the future. I am going to want to use a DHW storage tank, and wonder if there’s any reason to put an anode prior to that. Also, this got me thinking more about adding a water softener. Again, I will want to assure things like a water softener or DHW storage tank always have valves to be able to bypass them (for service, disaster, or simply change of heart).0 -
Yes, that anode rod is totally gone, so the oxygen in any fresh water you put in the tank is going to be attacking the steel inside the tank. They're glass lined at the factory, but the glass lining cracks from pressure cycling, and then the oxygen attacks the steel unless you have an anode.
You don't need an anode for boiler water because it's a closed system and the oxygen gets driven out in the air separator and/or reacts a bit with any ferrous metals until it's gone.
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Thank you for all the education! @jesmed1 and @hot_rod
Thinking more about my boiler setup, I bought a used hammer drill with bits off FBMarketplace and should be able to make the holes needed for the PVC vents now, making it so I don’t need to rely on windows for venting. I might add a vent for the clothes dryer to get a wondow pane back too. I can also add bathroom vents where needed now too. This $75 purchase should save me a lot.
I was thinking a lot about creating taps on both the supply and return sides of the existing boiler, making it so I could:
- easily flush the existing system
- Add a primary loop to the existing boiler … not so important as I plan to remove it, but…
- Tap in a primary loop from the new boiler.
Any comments on my (stupid) idea of thinking I could tap in via a 1/2” water supply, as I show in this video? Do those big valves even actually close? Just thinking of a way of doing this and minimizing the stress of cutting the heat in winter.
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back on the water heater, is this anything other than a temperature sensor on the control?
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Now that you've got your hammer drill, you might want to take the next step and get yourself a $75 or so 3" (or whatever size hole you want) diamond core bit from Amazon. The core bit makes one nice clean large-diameter hole without having to hammer drill a bunch of smaller holes, and it saves you from a lot of hammer-drill vibration, as you don't use the hammer setting with the diamond core bit, just pure rotary drilling.
You do need to select the correct diamond core bit for your material. I recently cored through 12 inches of 100-year-old concrete with large aggregate that was so hard, I couldn't hammer drill through it. I had to diamond core through it with a concrete diamond core bit. It was a "wet" bit, so I rigged my garden sprayer for a continuous water spray in the bit as I drilled. It took me an hour to get through because it was so hard, but softer materials like brick or concrete block will go much faster.
There are also diamond core bits for different materials, so be sure that whatever material you're drilling through is compatible with your bit. And be aware that there are dry and wet bits. I've only used wet bits, so I'm careful to keep water flow at all times and not let the bit dry out or overheat. And pay attention to the max RPM of the bit. Large bits have to go slower.
You will also need an SDS-plus threaded adapter that threads into the diamond core bit. (I think your Bosch is SDS plus, but you should verify.) The bit specs will say what size adapter you need.
Once you drill some nice clean, smooth diamond core holes, you won't want to go back to bashing with the hammer bits.
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thank you. The foundation wall is 3 bricks thick, and previous holes were made with a hammer drill. I think my mason used a diamond hole saw to cut through the stucco for my garage heater on the back side of my garage where he was repairing stucco after rebuilding the garage chimney. The agreement was to make two holes, but he said it was so hard to cut the one hole that he wouldn’t do a second… and that was stucco on framing, not stucco on masonry like the restoration of the house. But the foundation doesn’t have any stucco on it. Most of the holes for previous electric, natural gas and water lines were all done below grade. So there wasn’t much concern for keeping the holes pretty.
I guess with a three-brick-thick foundation, I could hope to get through one brick at a time. And perhaps I would bust out the fragments as I go to assure I don’t fill the hole saw. I can see how that would take a long time.
This is the first I found near a 3” PVC pipe size.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-3-1-4-in-Diamond-Grit-Hole-Saw-HDG314/203570976?MERCH=REC--trending_products--N-5yc1vZc268--3--n/a--n/a--n/a--n/a--n/ahttps://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-3-1-4-in-Diamond-Grit-Hole-Saw-HDG314/203570976
one concern… I will need to figure out how to attach this bit to a long drill bit to be able to reach the center of the hole.
I guess if I drill a center pilot hole, that would hopefully enable me to drill from the opposite side without getting off track. Being just a little off track with a tight fit could probably result in a huge mess.0 -
If you're going to spend $41 for a diamond hole saw that's too short for your purpose, why not spend a few more $$ and get one the right length? This one should be long enough that you can drill all the way through from one side.
https://www.amazon.com/DaduoRi-Concrete-Drilling-Diamond-Masonry/dp/B0CSSM7WZP/ref=sr_1_26?crid=2XM7Y5ZAA70I2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.rovdZHeg6d4IjuAORY-LzgytT_lgpAveJz55h64DgiXlag6ucANwyMBTN27I02JOUREI2Jg9benvI8nHCDksSo7Inqp8V6TfHt2C_-xJhSjNhgtLWXVK7t5Qxy0oJlihUREzoyYs1OR4yz4JsAdxzFkqyIEAqI5m_Gn6X-F8g8s7NjXnrT8OrsMz4GLUIy52sgq6YFRp9HSVyVVkIfNig4-R9eUTyE0A49q4HMRApGIG8MIl-6BPK8PKM_5AzWyhZ06LEElB_DAKMA7uS2eH9qlV-4QjN9BXPjxMiNBjjVWTRkluz6C9myLt0y0QVlyv4AbIydr68RHeTfJWiLX9HCrbxAR1CCQ_QmhSMb91lS8VMV_R_2oyyfxDJ1u0xabJd-7ubIs7hrR080-A7gZNuAV1cN46-wBIfSYdAdFQAJ1H78vw6jgfsHW7ICAKWMLl.TtCzBRH92HihWyTH1A3jka_5vVjC1vWFmsCmsu-iQ7I&dib_tag=se&keywords=diamond%2Bcoring%2Bbit%2B3-1%2F2%22&qid=1736862078&sprefix=diamond%2Bcoring%2Bbit%2B3-1%2F2%2B%2Caps%2C145&sr=8-26&th=1
Also, the diamond hole saw you linked to is for hard materials (glass and porcelain), not soft (brick). People assume all diamond bits are the same. No. They're made with different compounds optimized for hard or softer materials, and the bit will wear quickly if you get the wrong compound. You want a compound optimized for softer materials. The bit I linked to above is one example of that.
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