Short cycling boiler. I'm stumped.
Comments
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Ok sounds good. I'm gonna try filling the boiler again once my putty dries. In a few hours. I can't wait to get to the purge stage.
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If you are referring to pipe joint compound, you have no requirement to wait. Now "putty" on the other hand………………..🤐
All you need to do is to turn on the water and wait until the gauge stops moving (should be 15 psi). You do not need to make any further adjustments to the valve.
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Awesome. I just copied, thanks! That toggle switch though, just stays loose. Does it change once the pressure rises in the boiler? When I raise it verticaly it doesn't touch that rod inside.
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Your fast fill pin may be missing. Or did you forget to put it back after you adjusted the pressure with a screwdriver as @EdTheHeaterMan explained?
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If the pin is missing for whatever reason you can take it out of the old fill valve and install it in the new one if you have to.
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Nope. Honest to goodness the pin is there. I actually opened other boxes and checked them before i bought it. They are all loose like that. I thought maybe it needed pressure before you could get it to grab.
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I haven't really gotten that far. I'm waiting for the putty to cure where the LWCO probe was leaking. I probably won't be able to do anything until tomorrow. What a Christmas that will be for all of us to take a shower and warm up. Lol.
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I'll look them over again and make sure I'm not losing my mind.
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I thought maybe it needed pressure before you could get it to grab.
You might be exactly right.
At the moment, the valve is wide open because it senses no pressure (the water is off). So, the toggle switch cannot do anything. Once the pressure comes up, the pin will come up…………and, then you can force it down with the toggle switch to purge.
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Yup, the tab/handle just going flippy floppy.
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I like the way you think. This whole community. I've noticed technicians are like detectives solving a puzzle. It's almost like doing a crossword puzzle. Enjoyable.
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With troubleshooting I think of it as a treasure hunt with clues, if you give up, you don't get the treasure someone else will. I want the treasure.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System
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We like it when a homeowner is somewhat handy, determined, and tenacious and doesn't give up. We will stay with them until they are successful!!
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If you used pipe dope, it doesn't dry like that. An epoxy putty might seal it up for a while, but you'd have to clean it pretty good to get it to adhere enough to hold back water.
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Have you been able to get water pressure in your boiler yet? If the LWCO probe is a problem, you can always TEMPORARILY plug the opening with a 3/4" plug and bypass the LWCO with a jumper, just to get heat until you can get a new Probe that does not leak. This is not an endorsement of making a permanent repair that eliminates the LWCO. It us just until you can get the parts you need. Many heating boilers have operated for decades without LWCOs and there are still many out there that run just fine without a LWCO. I just think in an emergency the LWCO is able to be bypassed for a short time as long as someone is closely monitoring the water pressure on the boiler.
Get the LWCO back on line ASAP after you get the part needed.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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The silence is deafaning…………………….
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Hey guys Merry Christmas. I've got everything squared away w all the kids and I think this JB weld has set long enough. Says it needs 15 - 24 hours to fully cure. If that doesn't work, I'll plug the darn thing like Ed says. Alright, I'm ready to rock.
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I think the kids got gloves, scarfs and thick socks for Christmas, Santa must have come down the boiler's chimney since the fireplace was burning all night.
"So his clothes were all covered with ashes and soot." as he popped out the barometric damper!!!
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Hahaha. I like that. This will be my Christmas gift right here. I'm just making sure I don't have to open any air vents or anything b4 I open up the feed. From what I remember LRCCBJ saying it should do it's thing until the PRV stops on its own at 15 PSI. I'll just be sure it stops where it's supposed to.
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I'm curious if I should turn this ball valve on, too, along with the feed .
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Have no worries. It will stop at 15 psi.
But, then you'll need to purge it and you'll need more than 15 psi at that time.
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Open the feed first. After you finish all your purging, THEN open that valve.
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Copy that. Thank you. I'm watching this probe and praying. Lol. I've got the feed cracked right now
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Just open the feed. It will feed quickly at first and slow dramatically once it gets to 10 psi.
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10-4
Opened her up like you said. No leak!!! Gage looks about right, to me.
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Perfect.
Are you setup to purge the two zones?
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Yes i am. Ive got a big hose and a short 6 foot one. Prob gonna use the 6 foot one. I've got 3 buckets. What do i do next, boss.
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- There are two yellow ball valves right above the circulators. Close both.
- Connect a hose to ONE of the blue globe valves that are above the circulators.
- Use a long hose…………not a bucket………..and run the hose outdoors.
Now, we test the new PRV to see if the bypass works:
That little tab is now pushed down to push the pin down inside the PRV. Watch the pressure gauge and get it to climb to 25 psi. Then stop.
Report back.
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What is this valve on pressure side of boiler supply Pressure regulator?
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That's the backflow prevention…………..now required almost everywhere.
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Ok, done.
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Nice.
Now, you want to keep the pressure at 25 psi when you open the blue valve that has the hose attached..
How you do this is that you push the little tab all the way down so the pin is as far down as possible AND AT THE SAME TIME……..you open and throttle the blue valve to MAINTAIN 25 psi on the gauge. Watch the gauge and if it climbs close to 30, open the blue valve MORE…………if it drops close to 20……….close the the blue valve slightly…………..it's a balancing act to maintain approx. 25 psi during this process.
It would be beneficial…………to have a second person looking at the discharge water coming out of the hose. You are DONE when the discharge water shows NO SIGNS OF ANY AIR. This takes between 5 and 10 minutes, typically, to do it properly.
Once there is no air, simultaneously let go of the tab………..AND………..close the blue valve. If you close the blue valve BEFORE you release the tab………….you're going to get water all over the floor………………
Depending how far apart the tab is from the blue valve…………you might need a second person on the tab.
Then, repeat the entire process for the second zone.
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Haha. Okay let's give this a try. I got my boy at the end of the hose
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One down! Moved over to the next one. My boys doing great over there. Maybe you could tell me why the zone on the left has 2 ball valves like that? And which zone goes to which floor?
I've got my own thoughts but not sure about any of it. Lol
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Ah………yes………..I missed that.
Effectively, you have THREE zones.
You need to close ONE of the yellow ball valves (above the blue globe valve) and purge THE OTHER. Then, you need to close the first one and open the second one to purge.
What they did is split the zone with that circulator into, effectively, TWO ZONES.
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Okay. So I've got it set like this. I'm gonna purge, and then
open that one and close the other, and purge..
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Correct.
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alright. I've completed the purge. I left the pressure at 25 PSI.
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Open the globe valve slightly with the hose attached……………a bucket is fine…………and reduce the pressure to 15 psi. As you approach 15 psi, you'll probably hear the PRV open slightly. STOP THERE.
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10-4. It's back to 15 psi
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