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Taco 007-F5 not cooperating

AdamZ
AdamZ Member Posts: 8
in Gas Heating

I have the Utica 90 Dunkirk boiler from my other thread. But the circulator isn't functioning properly.

I have shut offs on each side of the pump so I can work on it without water troubles for the whole system.

I removed the pump housing and the impeller spun freely and feels fine, no grinding nor crusty-ness. There is no buildup nor crud of any kind in the casing.

I tested the electric and the boiler sends 120V to the incoming black and white wire inside the circulator pump electric box no problem. I tested the contacts where the yellow (connected to the source black), red (connected to the source common white) , and black (coming out of the yellow MKP5TRJC capacitator). The yellow-red showed 120V, the yellow-black showed 53 or so. I attached a pic showing where I put th emultimeter probes on these wires. So I figure the capacitator is doing its job b/c the number is different.

I am thinking I need the replacement cartridge ? That's what I need help with please. Here's a link to that part I found:https://parts.rheem.com/product/RPD-007-042RP?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA9vS6BhA9EiwAJpnXw97c0S_Y2JArHXIoyLeFaWInPSJB20P9wwR0k_8D2iUEV0t4wxz49hoCSrIQAvD_BwE

Or, the whole rig here for another $20 or so: https://www.zoro.com/taco-hvac-circulating-pump-125-hp-115v-1-phase-flange-connection-007-f5-7ifc/i/G2241452/?cjdata=MXxOfDB8WXww&cjevent=67f504f5ba4a11ef81da012a0a82b82a&utm_source=CJ&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_term=659dd72cdfcb437c99b8a69e77958409&utm_content=15734532&utm_campaign=4286516#specifications

Any feedback is appreciated and I am grateful for it. It's cold here in the NorthEast

  • AZ
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Comments

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,404
    edited December 14

    With the pump disconnected from the system were you able to connect 120 VAC to the pump and see the impeller actually turn by itself?

    Some pictures that folks post are zoomed in too much. I can see what you want me to see but I can't see what I want to tell you about. 

    I would test the motor by temporarily powering the motor with 120 V by connecting the yellow and the white wire to an extension corc and plugging it into a wall outlet.

    Screenshot 2024-12-14 at 2.16.29 PM.png

    The alternative would be to purchase the part, put the part in and when you get the same result you can come back here and tell us that you have the same problem after sending $$$. Then we can say that at least we know that the pump is working, now lets look for the real problem.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • jesmed1
    jesmed1 Member Posts: 721

    How do you know the circulator isn't working properly? If you're having circulation problems, those can be caused by trapped air. When the boiler is running, if you put your ear against a pipe near the circulator, you'll be able to hear the hum it makes when it's running. If you hear it humming, it's probably working.

    What's the water pressure in your system? Have you bled your radiators?

  • AdamZ
    AdamZ Member Posts: 8
    edited December 14
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1826841#Comment_1826841

    I tried that @EdTheHeaterMan, the power was good but the impeller did not spin.

  • AdamZ
    AdamZ Member Posts: 8
    edited December 14

    Thanks jesmed1, my system is all automatic so air is not an issue. The pressure is good. The pump is not making any proper sound at all. I am familiar with much larger pumps like this from my pool business (retired).

    AZ

    jesmed1
  • mikedo
    mikedo Member Posts: 231

    i would just get a new pump

  • AdamZ
    AdamZ Member Posts: 8
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1826845#Comment_1826845

    Thanks @mikedo, I ordered one from zoro. We'll see what happens on Wednesday🙄. Meanwhile I'll try any other ideas..

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,404

    When you put 120V to the pump and the impeller did not spin, then you have a bad pump.   there are no replaceable components other than the cartridge and the capacitor.  And for the price of the cartridge, I see no reason to purchase that part.  Just get the entire pump.   I have often removed the motor from the housing of a new pump, and just swapped that out.  That way you do not need to disconnect the flanges from the housing.  Just make sure the passages are clear and free from blockages. 

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • AdamZ
    AdamZ Member Posts: 8
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1826847#Comment_1826847

    Thanks again @EdTheHeaterMan, great tip for replacing the cartridge from the new pump and saving the hassle of the electric and flanges. I'll do that!

    AZ

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,404
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1826848#Comment_1826848

    I like to swap out the exterior section of the motor when I do it, so swapping out the electric is part of the job, but you can try just the cartridge if you like. There could be a bad winding in the motor section. Or it could be the capacitor. That means the new cartridge in the old motor may not work. But that's just me. I have the parts, might as well use them. The housing is just a hunk of metal what holds all the parts together on the pipe.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    AdamZ
  • SteveSan
    SteveSan Member Posts: 263

    If you can, take an amp reading off the motor leads. Name plate amp under normal operation should be .71. If more than 1 1/2 times then it might be air in the system or cartridge bearings are locked. You said the imp spun freely, so maybe you just need to purge the system.

    AdamZ

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