Riello f3 2 line setup

balou · October 23

hi im new here do be patient

I have a riello f3 2 line setup it worked fine for years now im using it as a spare cause i now heat shop with used oil. The problem is after sitting gor only a day it tries to start then resets i reset it once and good for the day without reset. So called a tech he put an anti return on supply line at thank fist time. Nope thats not it he put new pump on unit nope thats not it .
on my system i also have hot water heater on same lines so niw being out 700$ and tech still not on problem i took out hot water heater capped the lines so pproblem not there.
so being out 700$ still not running im now having trouble trusting my tech.
only thing that has been done to this system is last year tank and filter type was changed . But ran fine for 1/2 a season .

Keep in mind this is now a back up unit but i still want it to work im a mechanic so fairly handy and in my younger years i used to work for fuel delivery and clean these furnace and change nozxles etc so no my way around them a little Help would be appreciated beffore putting a grand in this thing thech charges service call everytime we are now at the 4rth

Ironman · October 23

I’d suggest you find a better tech.

EdTheHeaterMan · October 23

This: "only thing that has been done to this system is last year tank and filter type was changed ."

My guess is that is when the problem started. If that is true, then the Flare fittings that were installed at this time are not air-tight/liquid-tight. You have a very small leak that is letting air in to a high spot in your fuel line. A good technician could test the fuel pump and eliminate that as the source of a leak. Sounds like you have a parts changer, not a good technician.

Process of elimination is a good way to find the problem, the first thing to eliminate in your case is the parts changer, then find a mechanic. Is this a one man outfit? If not, I would call the boss and voice your concerns. $700.00 to fix a problem and it is not fixed. You want your money back! OR You want the problem solved.

Remind than that you did not ask them for a new pump. you asked them to fix a problem of needing to reset the burner. (unless you did ask for a new pump and the anti-siphon on the fuel line)

My signature line at the bottom says it all. If what you will check next is lower cost that the suggested repair, then try the lower cost idea first.

balou · October 23

10/4 on part changer

Only local tech around here . What i did today is closed valve at tank ill leave it 24 h then open and try so if there is a air leak line should still be full so burner should work.. only fitting was redone by tech when he put anti return and he put a loop there for some reason abd before that was bew filter and valve on new tank.
does my closing valve and waiting idea make sense

balou · October 23

forgot to mension yes tech is one man show

For the pump i asked if he should put guages to test he said no its probly seal failure

EdTheHeaterMan · October 23

I have a vacuum gauge and a pressure gauge in my oil burner tool kit. In order to test the seal on a fuel pump. you place the vacuum gauge on the inlet port of the pump that has been filled with fuel oil. you operate the pump until your vacuum gauge to go above 15"hg. vacuum and shut off the pump. That vacuum should drop a little within the first minute then hold for 20 minutes. If the vacuum does not hold, then the pump has the leak. If the vacuum holds, then the pump is good and your leak is somewhere else.

Reconnect the fuel inlet pipe, then place the vacuum gauge on the end of the fuel line at the tank end of the fuel line. Run fuel thru the pump until the vacuum reaches 15" again. After 1 minute look at the vacuum gauge. That number should hold for 20 minutes. If it does not, then the leak is in the fuel line between the gauge and the pump. I would suspect the flare on the copper pipe where any new work was done. If you are not using flare fittings, then start to use flare fittings. Compression fittings are not good on fuel oil piping.

Ironman · October 23

I have a manifold/gauge set made specifically for Riello. Anyone working on one should have them since they have the proper fittings to connect to a Riello.

If your “tech” didn’t have and use them, then he’s just guessing and a parts changer.

I’d ask for my money back since he didn’t fix anything.

An incompetent “tech” is a dishonest tech and that’s worse than no technician.

balou · October 24

i all have flrare fitting

Like i say im a mechanic and in my worl too there are part changer and real techs o have played sround with oil burners in my youth gor oil company i no a little to no that my tech is not up to par 4th visit still no clue

i will try opening tank valve tomorrow and starting it im thinking if it starts problem is in the line cause closed valve and full line should stay full right

balou · October 24

well i think trouble is in the line cause i opened the valve on tank this morning and started right up no reset

Now how do i find where problem is close valve bach up unhook from pump and add air presure on line??? Or is that a no

i knew as soon as i hit thermostat it would start cause i herd fuel dropping in tank from return right away

RTW · October 24

REPOSTED from my comment on "Riello Issue" post on this same page:

This may belong under a separate heading, but I see tech service as those that simply replace parts as a likely solution vs. actual understanding on how to fix the problem. I today, consulted a guy that repairs older appliances as to an issue with my circa 1964 Maytag washer that suddenly was not draining the water in tub ( I use it just for work cloths and have another washer for everything else). I figured it must be the "pump" needed replacement. On the contrary, was his response: "when did you last replace the belts that drive both the pump & tub". Well "never" I said and have owned it since 1996. Guess what, he had the new belt parts on a shelf in his shop . Thus, not the more expensive pump - if even still available

Regards,

RTW

EdTheHeaterMan · October 27

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1815920#Comment_1815920

DO NOT ADD AIR PRESSURE… you will blow the pump seal.

EDIT: but you are on the right track.

Disconnect the oil line at the fuel pump. As close as you can to the fuel pump. Then cap it off with a flare plug or flare cap or a NTP cap.Depends on what that fitting is at the pump where you disconnect it.
Disconnect the fuel line at the oil tank as close as you can to the tank, the fitting just after the valve is best.
Rig up a fitting to connect your compressor to the tank end of the fuel line. (or a bicycle pump)
Add about 10 PSI pressure to the fuel line. You should be able to see any fuel leak with that much pressure. If no fuel is leaking then there may be an air leak at the high point in the fuel line. Spray any fittings at the top of the fuel line with bubbles to find the leak.

balou · October 29

tech came back redone some fitting at the top …still the same so now he wants to put tiger loop another 3-400 bucks but might work

RTW · October 30

Dear balou

Please read my post above that identifies two types of service technicians. Sadly, you have the parts replacement type who, btw, has not reimbursed you for the prior parts replacement errors

Im curious as to your total out of pocket expenses to date that has left you with the same issue

Regards,

RTW

balou · October 31

if i agree to tiger loop over a grand thats y im holding

RTW · November 1

Based on your latest post, your parts replacement service tech is familiar with a quote from PT Barnum "There is a….

As IRONMAN posted:

" …he’s just guessing and a parts changer"

And, you were given high quality advice on how to identify the problem through testing

Regards,

RTW

Riello f3 2 line setup

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