Cold bathroom, replace small radiator?
Our bathroom (100sqft) gets pretty cold and part of the issue is that the radiator is flanked by a wall and our washer/dryer (unit is a foot closer to the radiator in picture than it usually is). The current radiator has an edr of about 24. It seems like a larger 14 column unit with an edr of 31.5 would fit in that space (although the vent side would be right up against the wall). My question is, how much heat does that additional EDR really give? With the position, would it make much a difference? This current one was recently sandblasted and painted and works, someone is selling a used one cheap but is it better to stick with the “devil” I know? Thanks!
Comments
-
The output of that radiator would give you 57 btu's per sq ft. I don't think the size is the issue, I think it's the venting. I don't live there, so there is some speculation.
Does the radiator get fully hot on the coldest days? If it does not, then venting is what you should be looking at.
Assuming it doesn't heat all the way on the coldest day. If you replace with a larger radiator and keep the same vent, it will heat at virtually the same rate as it currently does, in other words no more heat. If you leave that radiator and put a bigger vent, you will get more heat, but that assumes all the venting on the system (including mains) is proper and balanced.
You need to have good main venting such that the mains fully fill with steam before the radiators start heating. Then you can look at the radiator venting and size it for what is needed. Bigger radiator, bigger vent, unless it's a big radiator in a small room and you want less heat.
Was your odor issue ever resolved? Did they re pipe the boiler to minimum spec from what was there? That could factor in to the ability of this radiator to heat properly as it could contribute to difficulty balancing the system.
4 -
Lets just say that the radiator is working properly and the vent is working properly (and there is no more odor from that vent LOL) That would make it to be putting out all the heat that it possibly can. Now lets look at the location in the room. when that system was originally installed, I'll bet that the room did not look like that. I'm guessing that the original tub had claw legs and there was no wall between the tub and the radiator. Finally that washing machine wn not in that bathroom when that radiator heated that room so many years ago.
Now you have a couple of walls from floor to ceiling and a machine that goes almost up to the ceiling that is cutting down on the movement of convection air currents in that room. So I will ask this: Is the room around the radiator any hotter than the room away from the radiator?
Just an idea!
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
2 -
Haha wow the memory on you guys! So to answer a few questions.
The radiator does get fully hot all the way across.
Our main venting was inadequate and New England Steamworks fixed it in the spring of this year. So it is possible the bathroom heat will be better this year but I don't know yet. Hadn't realized how much of an impact that may have on this space, so will definitely look for improvement and how it's dispersing.
The odor issue seemed to get better with move skimming, but I may have to do more since the new pipework… hopefully not much. Maybe this is an asinine question but does new water in the system ever cause for odor out the vents for a period of time when the system is run?
They didn't fix their installation, I gave up on them partially because I was fed up and partially because I'm not sure I trust them to do the work properly anyway. Asked another local heating plumbing company what they thought of the near boiler piping and they said it looked fine, and they did not inspire confidence in general. So I had New England Steamworks come for system inspection and the report said that the header piping was acceptable and producing adequate performance but that the boiler is oversized (boiler sq ft is 450 and the combined edr of the radiators is about 290) and the main venting was poor so they replaced it. So I just accepted it at that point but I trust you guys if you think it's a major issue or contributing to the odor and I can try another local outfit.
Doesn't sound like a larger radiator in the bathroom would be that impactful and I shouldn't bother, at least no yet? Someone is selling a working one cheap for pickup later today, so it got me thinking and now here we are. Thanks for the continued help!
0 -
I would go ahead and try the larger radiator if it will fit. It certainly won't provide any less heat than you have now, and will probably improve the situation. Advice above about venting is well taken.
—
Bburd0 -
You can also try to put a fan that will quietly move the air around in that bathroom. Perhaps something like this:
On the lowest of the 12 speeds, you will hardly feel the air moving and the warm air will migrate into the rest of the room.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
4 -
Bingo. You need forced convection out of that alcove. Easier than moving the radiator.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.1 -
I think a small fan is the answer. the W/D is creating an alcove that limits the "reach" of that radiator. i dealy a thermostat woul;d power the fan only when the rafiator is warm or hot.
Is tat window tight and does that wall have insulation?
Bob
Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge0 -
Don't know what the lighting situation is in the room and whether you have room to do ceiling fans but it might also be a more elegant solution than a fan sitting on the floor. You could have one at the toilet end of the room blowing upwards. You could also have one in addition at the washer/dryer end of the room blowing downwards. Set at minimal fan velocities this would setup a nice circulation pattern. Is the shower enclosure open at the top or does it go right to the ceiling? Would work better if open at the top.
The Ventrite 1 vent you have on it even cranked all the way up is a good but pretty slow vent. You could quicken it up a bit to start getting heat earlier but it wouldn't have nearly as much affect as creating air circulation or increasing the radiator size (with a quicker vent).
0 -
A larger radiator will help….but that is the most expensive solution, especially since you have a nice radiator there.
They make magnetic sensors that sense heat and will turn a fan on/off. They are common in the wood stove industry. My wood stove fan will automatically come on when the sensor detects that the stove is hot and will shut off automatically when it cools off. Similar concept here.
0
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.3K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 53 Biomass
- 422 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 90 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.4K Gas Heating
- 100 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.4K Oil Heating
- 63 Pipe Deterioration
- 917 Plumbing
- 6.1K Radiant Heating
- 381 Solar
- 14.9K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 54 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements