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Need direction - Bosch Singular 5200

Robbi
Robbi Member Posts: 13

Hi! I've been reading this forum for many, many months now - educating myself from scratch and it has been super helpful. It's now time for me to post -

Firstly, thank you to all those that have responded to other's posts for help and for providing outstanding information. You are heros and I hope you know that.

My setup -

I installed a Bosch combi Singular 5200 for my 3100sqft home here on Long Island. I had a cast iron boiler prior, but ditched it after 35 years for certain issues. I repiped everything with 3/4in Pex C (oxygen barrier) and kept the original Slant fin 2000 (25+ years old), but replaced some of it. I wanted 1 giant zone (loop) for the whole house. This was done purposely. One thermostat. I have one external pump pushing the whole system. I have 92 feet of slant fin for an almost 70 year old home (terrible windows in most of house). I'm slowly renovating room by room and adding insulation.

My Dhw is awesome and has shown no issues. I'm preparing for the winter because last winter things didn't go well. Often, I had to utilize my heat pump in parallel (Bosch 2.0 at 3 tons for majority of the home). Ranch style home. I only want to use the boiler during the winter, but it could not keep up at all with the house. Heating bill/electric bill was insanity as a result.

1.How much did I screw myself with oversizing the boiler?

2. If I add more slant fin, will that help heat up this house and get my unit to condense properly?

3. Could there be air in the line holding the baseboards back from properly heating? I bled as much as I could (saddle valves), but I can't bleed all of them since they don't have bleeders. If I recall correctly, around 90-95 degrees F coming out.

What are your thoughts - be brutal if need be, so I can correct before the winter months settle in. Some days are 17-20 degrees Fahrenheit during the winter.

Set temp on boiler is 180 and 120 for dhw. The unit will be 1 years old this December 25th.

Thank you in advance - will check this regularly to provide responses. Will keep updated as I implement suggestions (for those that might have similar issues). Please and thank you!

With great regard,

Rob

Comments

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 2,980
    edited September 3

    Around 65' of baseboard you can run on each loop …. 92' is too much on a series system …You can parallel your system in half with 1" supply and return … Add purge valves to remove air on each loop…

    Panel radiators and the outdoor sensor works well with your boiler …

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  • Robbi
    Robbi Member Posts: 13

    Hi. Thanks for the response. Why is 90+ feet problematic?

    Does it help if there are actually 3 sections that meet into one and go back as the return (same for the supply)?

    There are valves for each of these small sections, but they're lower than the baseboards - they're meant to drain the loops. My secondary loop (close tees) is currently 1in Pex. Thank you!

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 24,558

    The key question on the 90 feet. And I'm not clear on the piping. Does the water flow from the boiler to one section of 30 feet. them on to the next one, then on to the last one, and then back to the boiler? Or does the water flow from the boiler individually to the beginning of each 30 foot section, then return individually to the boiler? The first arrangement is called "serial" piping, and the second "parallel".

    Now if it's serial piping, what happens is that the water temperature drops as it goes through each section, as the heat is given off by the radiator. So the first section gets nice hot water, the next one sort of medium, and by the time the water has made it to the last section in line it's actually pretty cool. And that last section just won't heat.

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    Robbi
  • Robbi
    Robbi Member Posts: 13

    Hi. The 3/4 Pex C travels from the supply heating, hits the first baseboard and then travels to a tee where it goes to one section of the house, where it then tee's off to the other two sections of the home. And then the 3 sections meet at the return line back to the boiler. Could you maybe say that it's a hybrid of both serial and parallel? Thank you!

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 24,558

    "Hybrid" would be a kind word. Is there any way you can rearrange the piping so that each section is fed individually from a manifold of some kind — doesn't have to be right at the boiler — and each returns individually to another manifold, and then the whole lot returns to the boiler together?

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    mattmia2
  • Robbi
    Robbi Member Posts: 13

    Hi. I can do anything - may I trouble you for an example illustration or product you might suggest, please? Thank you kindly

  • Robbi
    Robbi Member Posts: 13

    After briefly researching online, there doesn't seem to be any product for my need. I'll likely rearrange using a couple of tees and an elbow, but would this be all that different from what I have now? Would flow be impacted?

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 2,980
    edited September 3

    The supply to your parallel system is too restricted , 1" ID minimum on two 3/4"loops 1 1/4" ID on three .75" loops , The better flow will , also help you later when balancing .. What you have for a supply is too small , crimped Pex system is not helping ..

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    Robbi
  • Robbi
    Robbi Member Posts: 13

    Hi. Are you proposing I change my 1in Pex secondary loop (close fitted tees) to 1-1/4in pex? Or are you suggesting I ditch the 3/4in pex lines for 1-1/4in Pex?

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 2,980

    Three loops , you run a 1 1/4" from the boiler to a point where all the loops meet , connect the returns to a single 1 1/4" pipe then return to boiler .. You would need ball valves on each loop and a purge valve set up ….

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    Robbi
  • Robbi
    Robbi Member Posts: 13

    I'm on it - will do within next few weeks. Will touch base then - thank you!

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 2,980

    Ask First …it's easier …..

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  • Robbi
    Robbi Member Posts: 13

    Your previous comments were more than enough - thank you

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 2,980
    edited September 6

    Three speed circular would be nice later when fine tuning …..

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

    Robbi
  • Robbi
    Robbi Member Posts: 13

    Hi. Hope all has been well! I'm getting ready to gear up to make the necessary changes.

    What is a three speed circular? That a variable speed external circulation pump?

    Any suggested units? Always partial to taco 007e

  • Robbi
    Robbi Member Posts: 13

    Hi. Instead of utilizing 3, can I have one pump at the beginning of the supply and another on the return to push and pull the 3 loops? Recall, there is only 1 thermostat for 2800sq ft ranch home. Thank you!

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 2,980

    You may not need a three speed but is nice to have .. A parallel baseboard system needs to be balanced . It will take time and adjustments to even it out . Once set it is left alone . Until someone down the road plays with it :) … Not my choice of heating system , just adding…

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  • Robbi
    Robbi Member Posts: 13

    Hi. Why isn't a hydronic baseboard system not your first choice? What would be?

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,754

    The output of fin tube baseboard is poor at condensing temps, you usually need around 150-180 degree water to get decent output(the manufacturer of the baseboard will have a table in the manual). You can do it with lower water temps but you need a whole lot of baseboard. Panel radiators or radiant are much better for low temps. That being said the efficiency gain from running lower temps likely doesn't justify the cost of changing the emitters.

    3/4" pex is more like 5/8" copper so you likely will need to use 1" pex per loop to get enough flow per circuit.

    You can use a single circulator but you will need to have a balancing valve (either a ball or globe valve, doesn't need to be specifically sold as a balancing valve but can't be a gate valve) in each loop so you can balance them.

  • Robbi
    Robbi Member Posts: 13

    Hi. That's good advice. Do you think it would be beneficial to run one pump at the beginning of the supply and another at the return to help with the flow? Initially was thinking of doing 3 separate pumps - one for each supply loop (three altogether). Attempting to use 1 thermostat to keep the entire house warm. I'm going to change Pex to copper (as much as I can). Flow seems like my goal. Thank you!

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,754

    If you use multiple circulators put one on each loop, do not pump one in to the other. The multiple circulators has the advantage that when you decide you can't get it balanced because the heat loss of the different parts of the house change in different ways under different conditions, you can get a zone controller and put flow checks in the circulators and make it 3 zones.

  • Robbi
    Robbi Member Posts: 13

    Will do - going with taco 3 speeds so I can dial it in. Thank you for your input!