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Problem with Utica Boiler. Need Help!

Alfaguy22
Alfaguy22 Member Posts: 20
in Gas Heating
Model# PEG112CIDE

A few weeks ago when I went to fire it up it had no power. Long story short, it ended up being the transformer. Easy fix. Fast forward to today. It was on fine this morning. I turned up the temp a bit and hour later I realized it wasn't on. No pilot and no clicking. I ended up replacing the spark igniter wire (not sure if that's what its called) and the spark box (guy at the plumbing supply called it that) and still nothing. Id appreciate any ideas and feel free to ask questions.

Comments

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,517
    need more information and some pictures. do you have a stack damper? if so is it opening?
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 7,830
    edited October 2022
    Who is doing the diagnosing? I know if you replace every part one at a time, eventually you will stumble across the problem.

    Do you have a multi meter> we need to see if you have 24 volts at some key places and 115 Volts at other key places.

    If the transformer has failed again... Here is a good way to save on transformers:
    3 amp fuses are less expensive than transformers.
    Edward F Young. Retired HVAC ContractorSpecialized in Residential Oil Burner and Hydronics
  • Alfaguy22
    Alfaguy22 Member Posts: 20
    EBEBRATT-Ed said:

    need more information and some pictures. do you have a stack damper? if so is it opening?

    Can you elaborate?
  • Alfaguy22
    Alfaguy22 Member Posts: 20
    EdTheHeaterMan said:

    Who is doing the diagnosing? I know if you replace every part one at a time, eventually you will stumble across the problem.

    Do you have a multi meter> we need to see if you have 24 volts at some key places and 115 Volts at other key places.

    If the transformer has failed again... Here is a good way to save on transformers:
    3 amp fuses are less expensive than transformers.

    If it failed again, wouldnt the boiler have no power to it? It does, at least the light is on. I have a multimeter.
  • Alfaguy22
    Alfaguy22 Member Posts: 20

  • Alfaguy22
    Alfaguy22 Member Posts: 20
    edited October 2022



  • Alfaguy22
    Alfaguy22 Member Posts: 20

  • Alfaguy22
    Alfaguy22 Member Posts: 20

  • Alfaguy22
    Alfaguy22 Member Posts: 20

  • Alfaguy22
    Alfaguy22 Member Posts: 20

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 7,830
    edited October 2022
    A couple of short tests. If there is a roll out switch or spill switch that has a reset button on it, try to reset it. (there may be more than one) They are sometimes found on the draft hood and near the burner inspection door.

    Next, check the thermostat to see if there is a call for heat by placing a jumper on the T T terminals just below the emergency switch.

    Edward F Young. Retired HVAC ContractorSpecialized in Residential Oil Burner and Hydronics
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 7,830
    edited October 2022
    Next is the vent damper opening?
    Next are you getting 24 Volts at the ignition control? the meter leads should go on the yellow 24V and the dark green 24V GND.


    If you can answer these, then we can look further
    Edward F Young. Retired HVAC ContractorSpecialized in Residential Oil Burner and Hydronics
  • Alfaguy22
    Alfaguy22 Member Posts: 20
    EdTheHeaterMan said:
    A couple of short tests. If there is a roll out switch or spill switch that has a reset button on it, try to reset it. There are sometimes found on the draft hood and near the burner inspection door. Next, check the thermostat to see if there is a call for heat by placing a jumper on the T T terminals just below the emergency switch.
    By jumping it, what am I looking for? Sorry I don’t know much about these systems. 
  • Alfaguy22
    Alfaguy22 Member Posts: 20
    EdTheHeaterMan said:
    Next is the vent damper opening? Next are you getting 24 Volts at the ignition control? the meter leads should go on the yellow 24V and the dark green 24V GND. If you can answer these, then we can look further
    so, I jumped it and the damper is opening. Unless
    im doing something wrong, I’m getting no voltage from the coil 
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,060
    Under the damper motor there may be a thermo limit that is resettable as shown above.

    If that fixes it and it happens again you need a pro, as that is called "blocked vent limit switch".

    You may have a draft issue up thru the chimney...possible carbon monoxide danger.
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 7,830
    edited October 2022
    Sorry I fell asleep at 11:30 last night. Just saw the reply.
    With jumper in place on T T and no 24 volts on the UTEC ignition control, you want to look for the place where the series circuit from transformer R to Ignition control 24V yellow is open or disconnected. Here is your wiring diagram
    Edward F Young. Retired HVAC ContractorSpecialized in Residential Oil Burner and Hydronics
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 7,830
    edited October 2022
    24 V power starts at the transformer R and must have a return path back to C in order to make the ignition control operate. Follow this series circuit.

    Start a R or brown wire in the transformer plug that connects to red wire.

    That connects to JP2 on the LWCO and continues to the damper motor. Internally in the LWCO the power continues to the other end of the plug to the black wire that goes to the pressure control. To check that connection you place your meter leads on P1 and P2 on the JP1 screw terminals. if you get 24V then the LWCO is open. If you get 0 volts you are good to go to the next control the black wire goes to the pressure control

    From the pressure control it connects to a black wire that goes to the blocked vent switch
    From the blocked vent switch the power goes back to the wire nut connection inside the pressure control from the wire nut it goes on a white wire to the thermostat T connector that you have jumped to the other T connector screw.

    From there the orange wire powers up the damper motor and the motor opens the damper. Once the damper is open there is a switch in the damper that closes and allows the power to continue to the yellow wire back to the LWCO

    From there, the yellow wire is connected to a white wire that goes to a roll out switch. To test the rollout switch place your meter leads on either side of the switch and see if you get v24 volts. Yes = open switch and it must be reset or replaced. No voltage = closed switch and the power continues to the black wire that connects to the Ignition control Yellow 24V terminal. The return path for the ignition control is the dark green 24V GND terminal that has a white wire that returns to the C of the 24V transformer.

    My guess is the rollout switch near the burner is open based on the fact the the damper motor is opening the damper.

    Edward F Young. Retired HVAC ContractorSpecialized in Residential Oil Burner and Hydronics
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 7,830
    Turns out the Roll Out switch was tripped. OP is resetting or ordering a new one. He knows if the problem returns even once to call a pro.
    Edward F Young. Retired HVAC ContractorSpecialized in Residential Oil Burner and Hydronics
  • Alfaguy22
    Alfaguy22 Member Posts: 20
    Yes. It was the rollout switch. Resetting it worked. But, I did call a pro prior to have him check it out. He barely looked at it and said it was cracked and leaking water (no visible water that I can find). He immediately wrote me up an estimate for $10K and refused to even try to fix it. I mean, it is on the older side. Installed in 2003, however it was working fine.
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,276
    Nice of the man. Lose him and find someone who is willing to trouble shoot and fix the problem.
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    mattmia2Alfaguy22

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