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Gas flex line BTU rating

tflatebo
tflatebo Member Posts: 3
edited January 2019 in Plumbing
We just got a new gas stove (We got an American Range ARR 530), I have hooked up all of our previous dryers and ranges so figured this would be simple, but I have run into two issues:
1. The BTU/hr rating is much higher than our previous range, and more than the flex line they sell at Home Depot
2. The gas inlet on the range is way up almost to the top of the unit

*BTU and gas flex line*

Our new stove's rating in the manual is 113,000 BTU (even though if I add up all of the burners and burners it is only 96,000). As I went to go buy a new flex gas line I noticed that the 5/8" OD line at 48" long is only rated for 106,000 BTU/hr.

Would this be a problem to just use this size and length line?

*Length of flex line*

The gas inlet for the range is 30" off of the floor, and the gas valve from the house supply is a few inches off of the floor. So with a 48" line, I would have at most about 16" to pull the stove out from the wall to access the shutoff valve. Disconnecting the flex line likely wouldn't be too hard since the access door is up at the top, but I would have to climb onto the counter to get at it.

The previous stove had it's gas inlet on the bottom under the oven, so this is pretty different for me. I have no problem calling a plumber if I *have to* but would like to be able to get this done myself as it is the weekend and my wife would like to have a stove.

What do people think about the BTU rating of the flex line and only being able to pull the stove out 16" or so?

*Another question*

The gas inlet for the range is a 90 degree street valve. Can/should I run a black pipe down behind the shroud and present a fitting at the bottom of the back cover? Seems like that would help with any length issues but it wouldn't be secured to the appliance, as I don't see a way to do that.

Is this intended to be a flex line all the way up to that street valve?
<img src="https://i.ibb.co/ZT5gF9k/IMG-2009.jpg" alt="IMG-2009.jpg"/>

Comments

  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,375
    The entire gas line, from the meter to the appliance, needs to be properly evaluated to see if it's sufficient for the larger appliance.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
    kcopp
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,517
    Hook it up, soap bubble all joints and make absolutely sure everything is tight even the factory joints. Then you can use the stove this weekend. Don't run all burners and the oven at the same time and then have a plumber check out the gas line. 113000, is pretty big. Most ranges take half of that
    Ironman
  • JohnNY
    JohnNY Member Posts: 3,229
    Corrugated stainless steel gas tubing has a high pressure drop/BTU restriction through it. Shorter the better. Use straight nipples and fittings as much as you can and use the shortest length of CSST possible.
    Contact John "JohnNY" Cataneo, NYC Master Plumber, Lic 1784
    Consulting & Troubleshooting
    Heating in NYC or NJ.
    Classes
  • Gsmith
    Gsmith Member Posts: 431
    Maybe hard pipe from the gas valve upward and toward the new stove connection, then you can use a shorter flex line, might allow you to move the stove in and out.
  • tflatebo
    tflatebo Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for all of your advice, I am calling my plumber today.

    It looks like my supply line is 5/8" OD, which at a 20' run is only rated for about 50,000 BTU anyways (from what I can tell) so I need a plumber to assess and remedy that. Now hopefully they can replumb that line with my basement finished without having to tear up too much stuff.

    Thank you again for your help!
  • GroundUp
    GroundUp Member Posts: 1,907
    5/8" at 20ft is good for a heck of a lot more than 50k at most residential pressures. Do your other appliances have regulators on them or is this all a low pressure run from the meter? There are quite a few determining factors here
  • tflatebo
    tflatebo Member Posts: 3
    As a final follow-up, I had my regular plumber come out and inspect the total run of the gas supply line, and give advice on the installation of the range.

    He said that the inspectors here in Minneapolis do in fact require that the shutoff be behind the range, not in a cabinet. Also, my 5/8" OD, 1/2" ID gas supply line is rated well enough (over 100,000 BTU) for my stove and would work fine. I ended up hooking it up myself with a 1/2" ID flex line and everything is hunky-dory. Thanks to everyone for the advice!
    Ironman

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