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Stadler Pex Problem

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HomerJSmith
HomerJSmith Member Posts: 2,441
in Radiant Heating
The house is being remodeled. It has infloor heating circa 1995. The manifolds and tubing are Stadler which was bought out by Viega. Removing the carpeting and tack strips, a nail was discovered puncturing a pex tube, also the plumber ruptured a tube moving a water closet flange. A repair has to be made and the repair covered with gyp-crete. The question is how is it to be made.

I can't read the markings on the tube as they are smeared and missing. It is clear Stadler tube with o2 barrier with 5 orange stripes running the length of the tube. The OD of the tube is .569 and the ID is .390. The tube is electrically cross-linked which should make it a class C tube, but it act like a class A tube as far as expandability goes. I think that class C tube is not expandable with it's fittings? I can't find a union fitting that size. 3/8" is too small and 1/2" is too large for a class C tube.

What I am thinking is to use a Sharkbite 1/2" X 1/2" brass pex coupling, expand the tube to just barely insert the coupling, wait for the pex to shrink back and use stainless steel PEX pinch clamp crimp fittings (Oetiker Style). I would cover the connection with shrink tubing.

Do you guys have any good ideas, what do you think?

Comments

  • kcopp
    kcopp Member Posts: 4,432
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    This was helpful last year...
    Thanks to Hot Rod.

    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/163934/stadler-pex-size
  • HomerJSmith
    HomerJSmith Member Posts: 2,441
    edited October 2018
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    kcopp, boy that was a fast reply. This is a little different than Hot Rod was discussing. I did have a problem a while back with In-Floor pex when I had to replace the in-floor plastic manifolds with Caleffi manifolds. The pex was the wrong size for the Caleffi adapters. There was a tolerance range for the Caleffi adapters which was out of range for the in-floor pex. I solved the problem by replacing the existing o-rings on the adapters with new EPDM o-rings of a size that would work.

    It worked great. I guess I already said that earlier.
  • Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
    Alan (California Radiant) Forbes Member Posts: 4,002
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    Take a closer look at this link:

    https://us.v-cdn.net/5021738/uploads/editor/0d/7dyw2pk4erk7.jpg

    Your tubing sounds metric, no?
    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
    Rich_49
  • HomerJSmith
    HomerJSmith Member Posts: 2,441
    edited October 2018
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    I would think that Stadler would be US measurements. The OD is 14.45mm and the ID is 9.90mm.

    Those charts are about manifold adapters. I need information on pex couplings, one tube to another and what you think about using Sharkbite couplings to connect two tubes together and expanding the pex.

    I don't want a leak under a hardwood floor. This is important.
  • nibs
    nibs Member Posts: 511
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    What I am thinking is to use a Sharkbite 1/2" X 1/2" brass pex coupling, expand the tube to just barely insert the coupling, wait for the pex to shrink back and use stainless steel PEX pinch clamp crimp fittings (Oetiker Style). I would cover the connection with shrink tubing.

    Am a neophyte, buut why not take the coupling to a machine shop and ask them to turn it down to fit the pex. The clamp fittings should hold even on a smooth fitting.
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,143
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    The Caleffi universal pex fittings have a 2mm OD tolerance range, .5 mm ID

    1/2" pex is 5/8 OD .625 or 15.8 mm
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream

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