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Trane Invisible Radiator - repair

My house was built in 1935 and contains invisible or concealed radiators in all rooms. Several of the radiators do not heat. Is it possible to repair this type of radiator (I believe I have Trane Invisible Radiators - based on the literature posted on this website) without taking out the wall? All contractors that have looked at these radiators believe the only way to "repair" them is to take apart the wall and "have a look around"
Does anyone have experience with this type of radiator?
Please note, I am a homeowner (not a contractor nor a successful DIYr)
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The radiator allows water to flow through it to emit heat. Basically a glorified pipe. If you aren't getting flow 9 out of 10 times the radiator isn't the problem and the problem is elsewhere in the system.
As near as I can tell "digging around" will accomplish one thing, destroying your house.
Where are you located, we may know a qualified contractor in your area that can actually help you.
Also here is some information about those units
https://www.gwgillplumbingandheating.com/webapp/GetFile?fid={147F7FA3-3A99-470D-B6F5-B1545E40406A}
EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Boiler Control
Boiler pictures updated 2/21/15
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10202744301871904.1073741828.1330391881&type=1&l=c34ad6ee78
If you do not see an air bleeder or the air flow damper mentioned above, you can buy an inspection camera with 3-4' lite flex end for about 100 dollars. This would let you find things even without grill removal by going up the bottom.
There may be valves that are shut off stopping the water flow.
You might see or feel these thru the bottom opening.
I don't see an air bleed in the usual place, so it may be steam. @JMSullivan , if you're not sure, can you take a pic of the boiler and post it here?
Around here, we see lots of these Trane Invisible Radiators on Vapor steam systems. These are either Orifice systems, or there are thermostatic traps on the return connections.
"Reducing our country's energy consumption, one system at a time"
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Baltimore, MD (USA) and consulting anywhere.
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/all-steamed-up-inc
Based my "reading" of Dan H's books, I have determined that I have a 2-pipe steam system. When originally installed in 1935, the boiler was coal fired. It was upgraded many years ago to a gas boiler. I will take a picture of it and post soon, if that will help.
I am located in Winston Salem, NC
I am not sure what an Orifice or Thermostatic trap looks like - do I have one?
I have tried to provide a representative example of the radiator - left side top and bottom, right side top and bottom, and outside.
Any thoughts are welcome!
"Reducing our country's energy consumption, one system at a time"
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Baltimore, MD (USA) and consulting anywhere.
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/all-steamed-up-inc
Wonder if it is possible to disconnect the supply and return in the basement, back the risers out and remove the convector for access to the trap and for cleaning the fins then reinstall without opening up the wall?? Wouldn't be easy
Or clean in place and if the trap is failed open, leave it in place and install a new trap in the basement.#####
#####not sure I like my own idea!!
Either way is not easy
I have taken better pictures of the left top and left bottom of the radiator. I believe the trap is on the bottom, correct? To answer STEAMHEAD, I believe the "top" is flat-ish. It has a slight dome on top but the top of the dome is flat.
I also noticed on the top left a "pokey up thing" Is that something important?
Lastly, do I just vacuum the fins? Or is there something else I should be doing?
Yes, your second floor units will be more of a problem. You may have to cut and patch the walls on some of them
This could be the result of one trap which, having failed open, and flooding the common return with steam, shuts the traps on the neighboring radiators.
Sometimes the pressure can creep up, and cause one weaker trap not to close, so checking the pressure would be a good place to start. Pictures of your boiler piping, and controls would help.—NBC
Get an appropriate sized offset wrench, undo the union nut. Remove the escutcheon plate for clearance, get a pipe wrench on the pipe and an appropriate sized wrench on the trap and take it out.
Wouldn't be easy, but for me cutting holes wouldn't be an option ever.
I find it hard to believe they didn't think about maintenance. Sometimes that requires specialty tools.
EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Boiler Control
Boiler pictures updated 2/21/15
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10202744301871904.1073741828.1330391881&type=1&l=c34ad6ee78
The angle pictures would show that.
If the base/trim is just a short 3-4' length then may the intent was to carefully remove the trim to get to the unions.
Please refer to attached pictures of the boiler...not sure where the pressure gauge is but currently the boiler is not running (too warm now!)
I have attached angle pictures as well. Notice, there appears to be nails that are attaching a "flashing" around the convector/fins/radiator. In poking the ruler around, it does not appear to have any room around this element. Therefore, I am not sure the convector/fins/radiator can be removed.
@KC_Jones - I agree with you! I have been asking about specialty tools and keep getting the "eye roll"
I have also attached an "outsideangle" picture with shows everything is flush with the wall.
Serving Cleveland's eastern suburbs from Cleveland Heights down to Cuyahoga Falls.
> I'd take the trap out. Cutting into those walls shouldn't even be considered as an option. It's pretty obvious that trap has been changed unless it has miraculously aged differently from everything around it. Also I doubt they used a merchant coupling in 1935. I could be wrong, but looking at those pics that's how it looks to me.
>
> Get an appropriate sized offset wrench, undo the union nut. Remove the escutcheon plate for clearance, get a pipe wrench on the pipe and an appropriate sized wrench on the trap and take it out.
>
> Wouldn't be easy, but for me cutting holes wouldn't be an option ever.
>
> I find it hard to believe they didn't think about maintenance. Sometimes that requires specialty tools.
If an ofsfset wrench doesn't give enough swing crow foot wrenches are also available. 1/2 drive goes up to 2 9/16, and 3/4 drive goes even bigger. Yes they are pricey but way cheaper than cutting open walls.