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Leaking gas valve.

piperhayes
piperhayes Member Posts: 10
I have a hot water boiler system, that I can't locate a data plate on, and currently has a Honeywell V800A1476 gas valve installed. The current valve is not closing completely. I get dancing flames on the burners. I'm looking for a replacement gas valve, it seems the current one isn't really in production any more. I'm also looking for a solution as to why my gas valves have been failing. I'm the first residence off of a natural gas storage well and have been getting freeze offs and brine blockages at the meter for the past few years and eventually a failed gas valve, each year. Is there something I can place between my systems and the meter to block/filter whatever is destroying my valves? I don't know what exactly is causing the failures to occur. I disassembled one valve after replacement, expecting lots of corrosion or sand and didn't find anything noticeable.

Comments

  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,518
    Here is the link to that valve at Supplyhouse.com: http://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-V800A1476-Standard-Pilot-Gas-Valve-24V-1-2-x-3-4-Inlet-Outlet-Size
    There are some filters that can be installed in the gas line but if you aren't seeing dirt in the valve, that may not be the problem. How often do they fail?
  • j a_2
    j a_2 Member Posts: 1,796
    Call and see if your supplier will install a filter....as well a recover your losses due to ther crappy gas....They definitely do exactly that in my area
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 12,143
    I agree with @j a, time to talk with your gas supplier. They ought to provide you with a reasonably clean gas supply. Anything else is potentially dangerous.

    They have skin in the game. Talk with other gas customers and find out if others are having problems.

    Sounds like a moisture issue to me. I don't know if they have some type of replaeable dessicant filter for gas
    steamhouse
  • piperhayes
    piperhayes Member Posts: 10
    I can find the valve I currently have online. Was looking for possibly a newer design, that is possibly a better design and that doesn't cost as much.

    I've had to replace my valve every year for the past 4 years. Usually around March/April. Thought I had gotten away from it this year, but it still got me.

    The problem with the supplier is that the storage well I get my gas from is on my property. I get x# of cubic feet of gas as part of the lease. I inquired once about recouping the cost of the valve and their reply was that there is something in the lease that holds them not liable. I still need to get a copy of the lease and check for myself.

    What I find odd is that none of my other appliances, as far as I can tell, have been damaged yet. It might just be that it's just because the boiler draws the most and runs a lot during the time that we get the freeze offs. Doesn't help either, that I have to deal with two distinctly different parts of the gas company. That are technically separate entities. I have to call Transmission to come out, because it's a residence and they have to call Production, to service the well and pump out the brine.
  • j a_2
    j a_2 Member Posts: 1,796
    Wow that's a unique issue....Whole hose filters are fairly common here in low presse areas south of Boston...
  • piperhayes
    piperhayes Member Posts: 10
    J A ..... Whole house filter for your gas? Can you find out the manufacturer?
  • j a_2
    j a_2 Member Posts: 1,796

    J A ..... Whole house filter for your gas? Can you find out the manufacturer?

    Sure I'll get it for you
    piperhayes
  • piperhayes
    piperhayes Member Posts: 10
    Thanks!
  • Tim McElwain
    Tim McElwain Member Posts: 4,517
    Have the utility or gas provider install a whole house filter. The replacement for your gas valve is a VR8300A 1054 3/4" x 3/4".
  • piperhayes
    piperhayes Member Posts: 10
    Thanks Tim.
  • piperhayes
    piperhayes Member Posts: 10
    I can't locate anything for a VR8300A 1054!
  • Tim McElwain
    Tim McElwain Member Posts: 4,517
    Try VR8300A-4516, or 4508 or 3500 or 4516.
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,518
    SupplyHouse has the very one he says he needs and they have 25 in stock: http://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-V800A1476-Standard-Pilot-Gas-Valve-24V-1-2-x-3-4-Inlet-Outlet-Size
  • Tim McElwain
    Tim McElwain Member Posts: 4,517
    When replacing a single seated valve the V800 you must replace with a redundant valve per code. The VR version is a redundant valve (dual seated). The V800 or any other single seated valve can not be used on any central heating system per code change in 1979. The V800 can only be used on space heating or unvented appliances
    HVACNUT
  • piperhayes
    piperhayes Member Posts: 10
    Thanks for the advice.
  • piperhayes
    piperhayes Member Posts: 10
    Anything on the whole house filter?
  • MikeJ
    MikeJ Member Posts: 103
    What is the gas pressure to your valve? I'm sure you have a dirt leg installed
  • piperhayes
    piperhayes Member Posts: 10
    I don't remember what the pressure was. Yes, I've got a dirt leg installed.
  • piperhayes
    piperhayes Member Posts: 10
    Nothing on the filter?
  • HomerJSmith
    HomerJSmith Member Posts: 1,621
    Make sure voltage at the gas valve is correct and the input and output pressures from the gas valve are correct.
  • HomerJSmith
    HomerJSmith Member Posts: 1,621
    So, the reason you replaced these valves is because there was leaking and a dancing flame on the burners? This is so on all cases?

    Is it possible that you have stray voltages on the valve even when the thermostat shuts the boiler down? (long shot guess) You need a good rms volt meter to check this. You might disconnect the thermostat wires at the gas valve and see if your ghost gas flow at the burner goes away. Just some thoughts.
  • HomerJSmith
    HomerJSmith Member Posts: 1,621
    Any redundant standing gas valve with the correct input an output size and voltage that has a CFM of 25% over the name plate rating of the boiler will do. Honeywell does cross reference their gas valves with older versions.
  • Tim McElwain
    Tim McElwain Member Posts: 4,517
    The reason you are having issues with gas valves is that you are getting unrefined gas which is loaded with condensables which will adhere to the valve seat in the gas valve. Going to a redundant valve will probably help the problem as the first valve in the redundant is a direct acting solenoid not a diaphragm. I used to work for a gas company so I know what I am talking about when it comes to these issues.
  • HomerJSmith
    HomerJSmith Member Posts: 1,621
    Tim, what do you mean by condensables?
  • HomerJSmith
    HomerJSmith Member Posts: 1,621
    I think that I would re-pipe in a 2" drip nipple at the gas valve, not the regular 1/2" or 3/4".
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 12,143
    Condensables would be water and moisture in the gas
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 4,622
    > @HomerJSmith said:
    > I think that I would re-pipe in a 2" drip nipple at the gas valve, not the regular 1/2" or 3/4".

    ???
  • MikeJ
    MikeJ Member Posts: 103
    How can you troubleshoot a gas valve when you don't know what pressure is going to the valve. Maybe you have high gas pressure and need a regulator. A gas valve will fight against high pressure for a awhile then it gets weak.
  • rwww
    rwww Member Posts: 2
    I think I also have a leaking gas valve. Furnace at family cabin is warm air with electronic ignition. When I turned on the gas, everything seemed fine. Set thermostat to "heat" and the furnace started and ran normally (I heard the sparks to light the pilot, then heard the main burner ignite). When the temperature got to the set point, I heard the thermostat click off. Then I smelled gas (I immediately shut off the gas). I'm thinking the pilot control valve is leaking (slow enough that the pilot flame was extinguished when the main burner extinguished). I've called the local service company, but will be at least a month before they can send a tech. Assuming my suspicion is correct, I will order a new control valve assembly for the tech to install.
  • Tim McElwain
    Tim McElwain Member Posts: 4,517
    When the thermostat is satisfied both pilot and main valve shut off together. I would not purchase a gas valve until a professional takes a look at it. It is not unusual for there to sometimes be a slight smell of gas when burners first come on and when the burner shuts off. If there is no lingering smell after it shuts off it should be okay. You want to make sure the system is venting properly.