Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Taco ESP zone valves

Options
Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
Alan (California Radiant) Forbes Member Posts: 4,002
in THE MAIN WALL
I seem to remember that when these zone valves first came out years ago, there were problems with both the operator and the valve itself. The reason I ask is that I had a call from a new customer who purchased a new house that sat empty for many years that has 11 of these zone valves with a 2007 date code. Some of the zone valves are not closing properly and the rooms get over-heated. I tried replacing the operator (Taco Sentry), but got the same symptom and remembered that years ago I had to replace valves on another job because of the same problem and I thought Taco came forward and said there was a problem with the engineering of the valve. But now, my supplier says there was never a problem with the valve.

Yes, it certainly could be a problem because the system sat idle for all these years, but am wondering if others have had the same problem.

Thanks!
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab

Comments

  • rick in Alaska
    rick in Alaska Member Posts: 1,457
    Options
    I have not had any problems with the valve itself. You might try taking the head off and exercising the valve itself. I do this a lot with Honeywell valves. What I do is take a pair of vise grips, put it on the stem, and vigorously twist it back and forth. (After putting a drop of zoom oil on the stem). It usually frees it up fairly well. I am wondering if maybe because it sat so long, the rubber seal is sticking.
    Rick
  • Tinman
    Tinman Member Posts: 2,808
    Options
    @Alan (California Radiant) Forbes - I had a lot of problems with the Sentrys during the time you mention. I haven't had any problems with the new ones. Not sure if that helps?
    Steve Minnich
  • Joe Mattiello
    Joe Mattiello Member Posts: 706
    Options
    There was never a problem with valve body, actuators did have capacitors that did not store enough energy to close valves on some occasions, it wasn't the case on the majority of valves, in fact there are many valves still in operation today,
    Zone sentry actuators ZA024Q4A1 mitigated partial closure issues,
    If your valves are sticking it could because of sitting so long with moving and system debris festering around the ball hindering it from freely moving,
    I would suggest trying to free it with actuator head not fixed to body using it as a tool to rotate ball, The valves are approximately 10 years old too,
    Don't use any oil as it can attack valve oring and cause leak, soapy water should help
    Call Taco directly if you still have problems,
    Joe Mattiello
    N. E. Regional Manger, Commercial Products
    Taco Comfort Solutions
    TinmanZman
  • Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
    Alan (California Radiant) Forbes Member Posts: 4,002
    Options
    Thanks everyone!
    Joe: What about some silicone spray on the stems?
    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,143
    Options
    I think I can speak for all valve stems, be they ball, flapper, piston type, etc. Fluid quality is the main reason they bind or get stuck.

    You see this on manifold actuators also. Even lever handle ball valves will seize and snap the stem.

    If the shaft seizes completely, something has to give, gear train, enclosures, snapped shafts, etc.

    Sometimes running a hydronic cleaner will keep the parts rotating freely, followed by good water quality and a hydronic treatment additive.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • G Averill_2
    G Averill_2 Member Posts: 48
    Options
    Alan we had problems on two large jobs where the controllers would not completely shut the valve off, leaving the zones to overheat.
    I made numerous calls to our Taco reps and to the factory itself with no results. I called the factory back, asking to speak to the design engineer for these valves and was given a contact name (sorry I don't have it on file). He knew of the problem as he experienced it in his own home, telling me that there was a problem with a capacitor being slightly small for the job and that the heads would have to be replaced with the new
    ZA024Q4A1 24v model.
    Between Taco, our local rep and our company we covered the change outs - and all are yet working well today.

Categories