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Grundfos TLC, Comfort Hot Water Recirculation Pump?

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ChrisJ
ChrisJ Member Posts: 15,673
in Plumbing
I remember some members talking about a setup like this in the past, or at least, one similar.
What are the thoughts on this?

The main reason I'm considering it is the pipes going to my kitchen sink are in the wall under an old cistern and occasionally, like this morning the cold water pipe freezes. I even tried running a small ceramic heater which apparently wasn't getting in the right spot. I have no easy way to get to this area to change things unless I rip the cabinets and possibly section of flooring out. Another idea was to just run new pipes along the inside of the cabinet, but, I'd need to tee off to pipes feeding my washing machine which would be a nitemare. This is by far an easier solution.

This, would solve that problem as well as possibly give me hot water on demand. My concern is, are there health concerns with running water from the water heater through my cold water line, which we drink from. And, how hot does the cold water get in practice?

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Grundfos-595916-UP15-10SU7P-TLC-Comfort-Hot-Water-Recirculation-Pump-3-4-NPT-115-V

I'm assuming, if I put a manifold up in my second floor bathroom I would get hot water up there as well?
Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment

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  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,137
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    Another simple method, if you can access some of then piping, is get some good quality heat tape. Get a low wattage per foot brand, use the pipe insulation that the recommend. Put it on a timer or temperature control for summer use, or let it run as a faux record system :)

    You may be able to slide the insulation with the cable inside for the hard to reach piping?
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • Zman
    Zman Member Posts: 7,569
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    You are correct that your cold water will be luke warm. I disconnected mine for that reason. I have seen it used successfully to prevent freezing.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
    Albert Einstein
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 15,673
    edited February 2015
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    hot rod said:

    Another simple method, if you can access some of then piping, is get some good quality heat tape. Get a low wattage per foot brand, use the pipe insulation that the recommend. Put it on a timer or temperature control for summer use, or let it run as a faux record system :)

    You may be able to slide the insulation with the cable inside for the hard to reach piping?

    No, no access to the piping, that's the issue.
    Otherwise, I'd either do heat tape, or stop the draft and insulate the piping but I can't do anything with it, yet.

    Biggest problem is, the pipe for the sink goes down into a tee which feeds the clothes washer.

    It's supposed to be -6F here tomorrow night so I might put a ceramic heater in the cabinet on low with the door open for now keeping that area warm. The previous owner had the drywall cut out around the pipes and metal screen put in. Now I know why.

    Thing is, I hate heaters like this. I just don't trust them at all.
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment

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