BELL & GOSSETT 100 Series VS TACO 007 F5 CIRCULATOR ..photo attached

Replace it with the 007.

The cost and aggravation to try to repair it aren't worth it.

Be careful of that asbestos insulation on the pipes above it.

"" You will also have to go with new flanges. That boiler looks to be in tough shape, ""

Nah, take the heat wrench to the flange bolts or the Amazing Saw, brush and clean the heck out of the old flanges and wire brush all the scuzz of the flange face Then, get a Wilo circulator with the big wide black circulator gaskets that will bridge any and all defects on the face of the flanges. Be sure to buy the circulator with the proper flange orientation.

I switched to Wilo's because I got tired of dealing with those tea pot lid gaskets that the wholesalers wouldn't stock for you. Even though two come in every circulator box and no Red Rubber ones ever come with circulators. Well, not in the last 40 years since they switched to the black rubber square cut O-rings.

I surely don't miss the cork "O" rings that came with the early 007's

@Billtwocase:

I went to a Greet & Eat at the supply house once. The food was filling. They had Wilo circulators, Veissmann Boilers, and Califfi parts. The Wilo folks also had their ECM circulator. I saw the gaskets and switched on the spot. I saw the ECM Pump. I bought it off the table, took it home, and installed it on my boiler. 6 zones with Taco 572 Zone valves. Worked great.

For some odd reason, my wholesaler always had fat wide Wilo gaskets. He still never stocked the standard Taco rubber ones.

@Joe Mattiello:

Joe, I'd repair a broken heart if it was worth it. That circulator was installed before my four children were born and most of them now have children.

The coupler is shot from all the iron filings all over the bearing assembly. Then, there's the issue of the motor bushings. Dead from over oiling. Or not being oiled at all. The ones that never get replaced because the coupler died from being out of alignment with the bearing assembly shaft. Then, there's getting that impellor off without breaking it or bending it to make it unusable.

Come to think of it, it might be older than the current owner.

Its like I used to say about a bad running Beckett oil burner, The solution was a brand new Carlin EZ-1.

The solution for an antique B&G Series 100 circulator is a brand new Taco 007. Last time I bought one (before I retired), I think I could buy 3 007's for the cost of a new Series 100.

Bob, do you have a link to that rebate program? I'd love to try and get something similar going here in NM.

Www.energizect.com

Hope that helps!

There you go. I am so clunky at computer stuff

As Joe pointed out above, the closest match for a Series 100 in the wet rotor line would be the 0010, so by that standard the 007 is indeed "too small." The majority of residential applications where the Series 100 was installed were overpumped, and for those the 007 (or even a 005) will do a better job. Size matters.

If you look at pump curves (to the OP), the 0010 is a closer match to the B&G. Which is stll a beast. Maybe you need it, maybe you don't. A site eval can determine.

Here's another thought. Nowhere is it mentioned that it is a Monoflow System. It is a fair assumption that it is. Installed possibly by someone who might have gone to the 2 day IBR school. (I never went, I just bought the books). The Yellow #240 hydronic design guide had a whole section on "One Pipe Systems". The true name for Mono-flow systems. Because there is only "one pipe" that is the main. If you try to get the old yellow book, you're out of luck because the old yellow one has been replaced with a white one and some was put into the H-22 heat loss guide. But it stated that the best practice was to split mains into two. You may only need a 1" main, but you split it into two with 1 1/4 being the preferred pipe for a better, less restrictive flow. And the split made two 1" mains. That system went in during the Late 1940's to the very early 1960's. That circulator looks like an either used or rebuilt. Whomever installed it didn't have sense enough to install it with the oil cups pointing up.

Maybe that was a P-3 B&G with those standard flanges. If it was and you put a plastic or standard coupler on it, the springs wear off and break. But the owner wanted to repair it. I'm so cheap that I consider it wasteful to replace my work boots before I need to worry about my sox getting wet. From the bottom. That motor looks like a Sid Harvey Re-build where they didn't mask off the motor plate and just sprayed over it. They didn't come like that when new. If it was worth the effort to rebuild that, I would. It never was. If you didn't want it that way, you paid extra for a new one.

Most of the problems with Mono-Flow systems not working and needing to change a pump, were already in the system.

Paul48 said:

What is going on here? This site has never been like this. Everyone has become defensive and competative. It never worked like that, before. It was a positive experience, with the total responses adding up to a real good anwer for the OP. I posted that, because it had not been mentioned whether or not it was a monoflow system, and that is something to consider. It had nothing to do with the merits of rebuilding or not rebuilding the original circ. It was not intended to select one circ over another, or preclude the selection of any particular circ. It is just something to consider when replacing a circ on a working system.

I didn't see it that way, I thought Ice was agreeing with you, just adding more info.

Since you have gotten this far, pump out flanges off. I would just go ahead and drop in the taco 007 and hold up on the isolation valves for when you replace the boiler most likely next year. That way you won't be wasting a valve or doing extra work. Most likely if you get another cast iron boiler the 007 is whats going to be on it. So you will have a spare circ.