Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.

Staple up radiant

Steve_210
Steve_210 Member Posts: 594
I am about to do staple up radiant underneath the wood floor in my own house. I have been in the business for many years but have done very little radiant and never did staple up before. From what I have read, aluminium tranfer plates are a must, is 1/2" or 3/8" better? I think I read some where 3/8" was better. Are there any other tips or insulation guidelines / do's and do'nts ect.. I would appreciate any help.

Thank you

Comments

  • CMadatMe
    CMadatMe Member Posts: 3,085
    Plates

    Use 3/8 plates. Hell of alot easier to pull 3/8" over 1/2". The only benefit 1/2" gives you is the ability to run a 50' longer loop length. Max for 3/8 is 250' vs 300' for 1/2". Best advice I can give you. Insulation is your friend and  prepare a good control strategy. Keep it simple but do it right. Taco RMB is a good choice. Simpifies pipng and I would also recommend floor sensors. The Wirsbo 511s is a great little set point control. It's programable like a thermostat but also gives you the abuility to look at floor temp, air temp or a combination of both depending on what you a looking for.
    "The bitter taste of a poor installation remains much longer than the sweet taste of the lowest price."
  • Steve_210
    Steve_210 Member Posts: 594
    instalation

    does anyone have any pictures of the heat transfer plates installed. slant fins are about 4" wide. I was planning to go 9" centers, not all of the joist bay will be covered with the plates, presume this is ok. what is the best fixing method air nails or screws. what about silicone. 
  • NRT_Rob
    NRT_Rob Member Posts: 1,013
    8" o.c. is typical

    Screws or heavy staples work well, no silicon if it's a good plate, tubing should fit tightly, do not affix loop heads or bends on either end.
    Rob Brown
    Designer for Rockport Mechanical
    in beautiful Rockport Maine.
  • Steve Garson_2
    Steve Garson_2 Member Posts: 638
    Insulate sill plates

    Be real careful to insulate the sill plates real well.  You can lose a lot of heat through them.  Spray foam for the sills are best, since it will seal all the air leaks, as well.
    Steve from Newton, MA
  • Merc
    Merc Member Posts: 4
    plates or not, insulation is critical

    I wouldn't do staple-up for a client anymore, it's a neck breaker.  But I have done 3 of my own houses this way.  Because of nails sticking thru all over from the hardwood floor above, the plates  just weren't going to be practical.  Plus they are expensive!  I just used my old heatway stapler and made sure the staples were close together and each one was bent to press the tube tight to the floor.  I do need to run the water at 150 degrees on a design day of 0 degrees.  Use as much (foil faced) insulation as possible or the rooms below will overheat.



    Merc
  • Simply Rad
    Simply Rad Member Posts: 165
    Naked(without plates) staple up SUCKS

    Its a cheap imitation and its even harder to do it a second time(when it does not work). so do it right the first time ad use heat transfer products such as plates. Radiant floor heating is the "ultimate in comfort and efficiency" when done right.
    Jeffrey Campbell
This discussion has been closed.