Staple up radiant

Steve_210

I am about to do staple up radiant underneath the wood floor in my own house. I have been in the business for many years but have done very little radiant and never did staple up before. From what I have read, aluminium tranfer plates are a must, is 1/2" or 3/8" better? I think I read some where 3/8" was better. Are there any other tips or insulation guidelines / do's and do'nts ect.. I would appreciate any help.

Thank you

CMadatMe

Plates

Use 3/8 plates. Hell of alot easier to pull 3/8" over 1/2". The only benefit 1/2" gives you is the ability to run a 50' longer loop length. Max for 3/8 is 250' vs 300' for 1/2". Best advice I can give you. Insulation is your friend and  prepare a good control strategy. Keep it simple but do it right. Taco RMB is a good choice. Simpifies pipng and I would also recommend floor sensors. The Wirsbo 511s is a great little set point control. It's programable like a thermostat but also gives you the abuility to look at floor temp, air temp or a combination of both depending on what you a looking for.

Steve_210

instalation

does anyone have any pictures of the heat transfer plates installed. slant fins are about 4" wide. I was planning to go 9" centers, not all of the joist bay will be covered with the plates, presume this is ok. what is the best fixing method air nails or screws. what about silicone. 

NRT_Rob

8" o.c. is typical

Screws or heavy staples work well, no silicon if it's a good plate, tubing should fit tightly, do not affix loop heads or bends on either end.

Steve Garson_2

Insulate sill plates

Be real careful to insulate the sill plates real well.  You can lose a lot of heat through them.  Spray foam for the sills are best, since it will seal all the air leaks, as well.

Merc

plates or not, insulation is critical

I wouldn't do staple-up for a client anymore, it's a neck breaker.  But I have done 3 of my own houses this way.  Because of nails sticking thru all over from the hardwood floor above, the plates  just weren't going to be practical.  Plus they are expensive!  I just used my old heatway stapler and made sure the staples were close together and each one was bent to press the tube tight to the floor.  I do need to run the water at 150 degrees on a design day of 0 degrees.  Use as much (foil faced) insulation as possible or the rooms below will overheat.



Merc

Simply Rad

Naked(without plates) staple up SUCKS

Its a cheap imitation and its even harder to do it a second time(when it does not work). so do it right the first time ad use heat transfer products such as plates. Radiant floor heating is the "ultimate in comfort and efficiency" when done right.