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Peerless hot water oil boiler what size should the chiminey flue

Joe.G
Joe.G Member Posts: 213
but when they talking about rough settings are they takeing in to account a .85 nozzle with the 145 pump pressure?

Comments

  • Joe.G
    Joe.G Member Posts: 213
    Peerless hot water oil boiler what size should the chiminey flue

    Hi, iam haveing my chimney clay flue replaced with a stainless steel liner, I have asquare flue at the moment and I guess the steel one will be round, I think they said they are replaceing it witha 6 in or a 5.5 inch liner ( I think I have a 8 in clay flue now) the pipe out of my boiler I think is 6 in. Just wondering what you guys think, and will teh new liner improve the draft? thanks a lot
  • What model Peerless

    and how many sections ? And how tall is the chimney ?
  • Joe.G
    Joe.G Member Posts: 213


    I would say it is roughly 30 foot tall, it is a block chimney that was painted, I am unsure how many sections.
  • TimJ
    TimJ Member Posts: 13


    Peerless uses 6" flue pipe.Why do you need a chimney liner? Are you having problems? Did chimney company reco a liner or was it your service company?
  • Joe.G
    Joe.G Member Posts: 213


    My flue is coming a part, it keeps clogging up. I am just wondering since I think there is a 8 in in there now if a6 or 5.5 would be ok?
  • Joe.G
    Joe.G Member Posts: 213


    I am haveing one done and I am wondering a little about it, I like to know what is going on. is a 6 inch pipe going to offer enough flow for my boiler?
  • Bob W._3
    Bob W._3 Member Posts: 561


    Joe, go on Peerless web site and find your boiler model and size and look it up yourself:

    http://www.peerlessboilers.com/home/productcenter/index.cfm

    Tell the guys here if there is a water heater or other gas or oil appliance that will use the same flue.
  • Joe.G
    Joe.G Member Posts: 213


    I have the EC/ECT series boiler it has the 6 in coming out of the boiler, but I think I read in the manual and the site somthing about a 8in chimney, the stainless steel liner is 6 in, is that ok to use? I know nothing about this stuff. I am running a .85 nozzle at the moment but may at some point step up to a 1.00. Any info would be great thanks alot
  • Joe.G
    Joe.G Member Posts: 213


    What do you guys think? thanks
  • Weezbo
    Weezbo Member Posts: 6,232
    call a chimney sweep.

    first.
  • Joe.G
    Joe.G Member Posts: 213


    I did they said my chimney is shot, which i knew buy the chunks I was pulling out, I do not want to be ripped off, the guy wants to install a 6 in stainless flex pipe, I would just like info on this and your thoughs. Thanks
  • Joe.G
    Joe.G Member Posts: 213


    anyone? who size a chimney on a new install?
  • JackFre
    JackFre Member Posts: 225
    5.5-6\" should be fine...depending upon

    as previously noted, the firing rate of the appliance. Check appendix E in NFPA 31 for guidance. I suspect your system will draw much better with the smaller ss liner. The taller flue is, the smaller it can be.
  • Bob Harper
    Bob Harper Member Posts: 1,090
    31

    Yes, check the charts in NFPA 31 but they only go so far. You did not provide the firing rate in GPH, SSE, or stack temp. & ht.

    Often a liner can be successfully downsized one inch without ill effect, esp. if over 25 ft. The Weil Mc Gold series is an exception. Don't downsize those damn asthmatic things! PIA to vent.
    Make sure they incorporate a cleanout feature as well as your barometric damper.
    HTH
  • Mark Hunt
    Mark Hunt Member Posts: 4,908
    Is it possible


    that A) The previous boiler was under-fired? or

    B) There is a depressurization issue in the CAZ?

    To find the answer to either of these questions, someone would have to perform some tests. Which part of the chimney was it that stopped working? Don't answer that, it is a trick question.

    My bet is on under-fired equipment resulting in low stack temps. That will rot a masonry chimney in no time.

    Here is a pic of what an under-fired furnace did to a masonry chimney in less than 4 years.

    Mark H

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
  • Mark Hunt
    Mark Hunt Member Posts: 4,908
    Is it possible


    that A) The previous boiler was under-fired? or

    B) There is a depressurization issue in the CAZ?

    To find the answer to either of these questions, someone would have to perform some tests. Which part of the chimney was it that stopped working? Don't answer that, it is a trick question.

    My bet is on under-fired equipment resulting in low stack temps. That will rot a masonry chimney in no time.



    Mark H

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
  • Weezbo
    Weezbo Member Posts: 6,232
    Joe if the stack is something that the sweep said abhort...

    and he should know as that is what they do for a living....then i got to say i would roll with his advise.

    Clear chimneys make installing vents a group easier.:)

    sometimes chimneys are in such a bad state that work needs to be done to them first...even if you don't want to hear that or i look like i have blue streaks in my hair :) let me assure you it is the illusion . the illusion of a chimney is a bad deal for many . i am thinking 6". there are roof top tjerlands though....jus to give you something else to think about.

  • Bob Harper
    Bob Harper Member Posts: 1,090
    one size fits all

    One of the problems with heater flues is we try to force everything into them. Whether it is a 32K BTU water heater orphanned or several appliances totalling over 500K BTUs, we cram them all into the ubiquitous 7x7 terra cotta flue tile cold, often exterior, often short masonry chimney. With setback T'stats, higher efficiencies, mis-matched equipment to house, etc., these things are all over the board.

    If the unit mates up to the chimney in question so there is sufficient heat to generate and maintain a stable draft 24/7 then the damage would be minimal as Mark hints. A hot flue is a happy flue I teach.

    Mark's second point is one I've been harping on for years--Worst Case Depressurization testing. Even if you have the equipment set up and running as close to perfect as you're going to get, the firing rate, aeration, combustion eff., etc. all can be adversely affected by depressurization.

    Chimney liners can help mitigate sequelae of problems and solve flue sizing/ performance mis-matches to a degree but they are not a panacea. They also are a means of dealing with damage once the problem is identified and corrected.
  • Joe.G
    Joe.G Member Posts: 213


    I went to the nfpa 31 site but could not find the info.


    http://www.peerlessboilers.com/home/productcenter/index.cfm


    http://www.peerlessboilers.com/home/productcenter/index.cfm?fuseAction=details&psID=4

    I have ec/ect 75 or 100 I have both tags on my boiler, I currently am running a.85 by 60 b nozzle but may change at some point to a 1.00 nozzle.
  • brucewo1b
    brucewo1b Member Posts: 638
    Nozzle

    Joe if you are running an .85 60* B nozzle you are at the higher firing rate as nozzle sizes are rated at 100 psi and your pump is set at about 145 psi making that .85 nozzle output at 1.00 rate.
  • Joe.G
    Joe.G Member Posts: 213


    .85 is what it came with from the factory installed. and the pump is factory set at 140 or 145 psi. When they give you the rough settings for the air and that stuff they say start hear with the .85 nozzle, now the are they talking the .85 nozzle set at 100 or 145 psi? thanks
  • brucewo1b
    brucewo1b Member Posts: 638
    Friendly Warning

    My last post was a friendly warning not to install a 1.00 gallon nozzle in a 1.00 Gallon rate appliance that has the pump pressure increased above 100psi. The only one that should be setting up and firing off that unit needs to be a qualified technician with a test kit. If they don't have testing equipment send them out the door and call around until you can find someone that does.
  • Joe.G
    Joe.G Member Posts: 213


    Sorry to be a pain but I would like to learn.
  • Joe.G
    Joe.G Member Posts: 213


    Please.
  • Been There
    Been There Member Posts: 4
    Chimney Liners

    Don't most manufacturers of chimney liners have this info available? I haven't lined a chimney latley, but I called the boiler manufacturer on the last one I did to ask the same question and they said to follow the chimney liner manufacturer's advice on sizing. I think the supply house I bought the liner from had a calculator for sizing them - it was a paper slide rule with chimney height, fuel type and Btu input on it.
    I think you would be better served going this route and having a professional size the liner rather than asking people who are not familliar with the situation and whom you've supplied too little accurate info to make such a technical recommendation. Not to be critical here, but I'm sure you know how uncompromising the world of venting is both from a code standpoint and a saftey standpoint as well.
  • Chimmney linning

    This all seems to be a mute point. If the terra cottta liner is crumbling the relining is a must. Regarding sizing with a stainless steel liner, you have no choice but to use the 6" round max. Any bigger and they wont be able to pull it through.
  • Joe.G
    Joe.G Member Posts: 213


    Yoy are right, about only being able to put a 6 inch one in there, but what are the pros and cons of a to big or to small chimmney? thanks
  • Joe.G
    Joe.G Member Posts: 213


    ?
This discussion has been closed.