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Bleed Valves

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Brunton
Brunton Member Posts: 9
I'm converting our house from baseboard hot water to cast iron radiators. The only bleed valves I can find are the ones that Lowes and Home Depot usually carry, but these are a little short for some of the old refurbished radiators I'm using, and I can't get them tight enough not to leak slightly at the base.

Two questions - what is the absolutely best pipe dope out there, and are any of the older fancy bleed valves still available anywhere?

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  • Brunton
    Brunton Member Posts: 9
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    Radiator Bleed Valves

    I'm converting our house from baseboard hot water to cast iron radiators. The only bleed valves I can find are the ones that Lowes and Home Depot usually carry, but these are a little short for some of the old refurbished radiators I'm using, and I can't get them tight enough not to leak slightly at the base.

    Two questions - what is the absolutely best pipe dope out there, and are any of the older fancy bleed valves still available anywhere?

    Thanks much!

    Mark B.
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 16,845
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    Try

    a short 1/8" brass nipple and a coupling. Screw the bleeder into the coupling, it should work OK. Any good dope should work with these items.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • Mike T., Swampeast MO
    Mike T., Swampeast MO Member Posts: 6,928
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    I've searched and searched and searched for a source of bleed valves other than that "coin-key". ZERO success.
  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177
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    lamp-wick

    try a hoffman "500 " or a gorton self bleeder . plenty of meat. use teflon or use quick-wick spool lampwick with schmear. garanteed not to leak. use wick on all water related threads & no need to do it twice !
  • Brunton
    Brunton Member Posts: 9
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    Thanks, and another question

    Thanks for the help on the leaking bleed valve. I got it fixed by chasing the threads with a tap and then putting in a new valve (coin-key). If the leak reoccurs I'll go with the short nipple and coupling.

    Another question - One of the new valve spuds (3/4") bottoms out in the female adapter (a new adapter) and still leaks a little bit. I used Blue Block on the threads. I've noticed this was close on a couple of other radiators, but I did get seals. According to the NPT specs, the male shouldn't bottom out in the female, at least on new parts. How do I deal with this? Lampwick with the dope, or teflon tape with the dope (and how do I do that? tape / lampwick then dope?)? Sorry for the very basic questions - I'm not a professional plumber.

    Thanks again for the help!

    Mark B.
This discussion has been closed.