Who put the iron in the munchkin

brucewo1b

Have you found the reason yet or put in a call to HTP?? Would really like to know what you find.

Bruce

Helgy_3

Who put the iron in my Munchkin

Ok here the deal, see if you can figure it out.... Simple Munchkin 80M install. Primary/secondary pumping. Four zones of infloor. Also an indirect installed. The only iron in the system is the six grunfos pumps. The boiler pump and indirect pumps were upsized by on size (26/64's).
System has been up and running for 6months no problems. The garage zone wouldn't heat very well with the flate plate. So flate plate was pulled out and entire system was glycoled to 15% aprox. One week later a bunch of banging started happening. After hrs of checking system out found the spiral vent plugged solid with small pcs. of iron that were shaped like the inside of the Munchkin heat exchanger. Flushed system and heat exchanger out, problem will not go away. Anyone seen anything like this.... Please let me know..

Thanks, helgy

brucewo1b

The wrong Glycol may have been put in the system and it is attacking the metal in the system or having an electrolysis reaction, don't forget that stainless steel is also made of iron. I would call HTP Technical support 800-323-9651 (extention 142, 157, 154, or 125)

Bruce

Helgy_3

Do you think that the glycol could cause the problem in a weeks time?

Tony_23

what about this ?

What if the garage wasn't heating well and it WASN'T the FP HX's fault ? What if those pieces of iron were in the garage loop restricting the FPHX causing it to not keep up ? Now you have those pieces in your WHOLE SYSTEM. You should feel lucky you have a Spirovent to "filter" your water. I'd get a wye strainer ahead of that Munchie, quick !

clammy

water feed line

Did the installer use copper or brass or steel pipe on the make up water line ?If he used steel you would end up with some rust but not iron i would check to insure the correct anti freeze was put in your system and the % of anti freeze is your system is the antifreeze just in the garage loop ?I would also purge all zone and check the water being purged for forieng materal peace and good luck and keep us posted as of the out come clammy

._2

from Watts/Onix installation manual:
"Systems should not be operated at levels
below 30% glycol. Glycol levels
below 25% do not contain enough corrosion
inhibitors and may cause the
glycol to act as food, allowing
microbes to grow. The microbes feed,
grow and die, allowing a black sludge
material to form in the system.
Concentrations above 25%, propylene
glycol prevents microbe growth. Try
not to exceed a mixture level greater
than 70% as the fluid may become too
viscous (thick) for the circulators.
As glycol in the system ages, the
inhibitors and buffers added to the system
begin to break down. This process
slowly returns the system to the natural
pH level of the glycol. If not properly
maintained, glycol in the system
can cause corrosion. Check a glycol
system at least once a year to ensure
the glycol is still within its operating
parameters."

hr

Why 15%

that only provides protection to about 20F depending on the brand.

I would suggest the system be cleaned and flushed before any glycol is added.

Glycol can breakdown quickly, especially if overheated. This could have happened due to inadequate circulation, air bound, etc.

I would suggest ONLY a multi metal hydronic propylene glycol in that system. Somewhere between 25-60%.

Glycol mixed below 25% for whatever reason?? should have addition inhibitors added. The manufactre can supply this. Remember the inhibitors are in there to handle the blend water. The higher the blend water % the higher the inhibitor package.

Some glycol mixers ask you tell them the mix % so they can inhibit accordingly.

Always read the boiler manual. Seems the Mo-co don't allow over a 25 or 30% mix. Some, like the Ultra have Glycol Supplements shipped with the boiler to guide you.

hot rod

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JohnWood1

Same thing happened!

Zack same thing happened to one of my contractors. Plugged the hx almost solid. Decided that the fill water was to blame as apparently it was a new well (home not yet occupied, but heated) problem. Had to flush like a bugger to get the black flecks out of the system, was not able to clear the munch and had to replace it.... not a happy camper! The stuff that we did get out of the hx came out like the stuff had molded into the shape of the inside of the tubes. Flattened ovals slightly curved.

We now recommend filling with a KNOWN source of water! Preferably de-ionized and brought in! Had WAY too many problems with on site water and reactions with glycol.