The wood floor guy is freakin' out..............................

hr

come in different lengths. As seen here a 1-3/4" cleat at a 45° drive angle will not reach throu the 3/4" subfl;oor. Use a 2" cleat at a 35° angle and it will also not reach thru a 3/4" subfloor.

Merely tape a small wood block to the heel of the nailing tool to adjust the angle to the "cleat" length chosen.

You really should insist the installer use hardwood cleats, not finish staplers or other nail guns. The cleats are designed just for this application, they do not split the tounge when they go thru, like nails may, and they allow movement as the wood dries or takes on moisture.

Any other fastener, unless designed and approved by the flooring manufacture, is a short cut. For additional info check with the hardwood association webpages.


hot rod

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Mad Dog_2

about hitting our pex.........................................

Besides the "Battleship" method (making a grid...where to nail ..where not to nail ) do you gents have any other methods to impart? Thanks in advance. Mad Dog

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radiant_2

sure make sure all new installation are done on top of the subfloor "as they should be" and the flooring installer will be looking at the tubing as he lays the flooring

Andrew Hagen (ALH)

Is the installation

above or below? If it's below, can the flooring installer avoid penetrating the subfloor with the fasteners?

-Andrew

Steve Ebels_3

Where's the tube?

Above or below the subfloor?

.........One of the many reasons I like Climate Panel installs. Yeh, yeh, I know. Short loop lengths, higher than normal head.......but, by golly that stuff is nice to work with for everyone involved. Heats beautifully too.

S Davis

Floating Floors

Tell him to use Kahrs wood floors.

www.Kahrs.com


S Davis

Apex Radiant Heating

gary bettcher

Template

I make a template of clear plastic with a outline of the tube and staple it to the wall , that way it can be lifted many times and you can still keep track of your pipe, and its easy for a floor insaller to use.

bob young

that sounds pretty much foolproof,Gary. providing of course that the floor guys are not fools. that is usually the real problem. they always find a way.

Mad Dog_2

Thank you gents

Yes it is 1/2 pex laying on top of subfloor with industrial foil to reflect heat upward. He will lay sleepers between our loops, then 1/2" PLY, THEN, THE FINSIHED WOOD FLOOR. This guy (Contractor)was VERY resistant to us using radiant, and did every thing he could to talk the ho out of it. I told him if you knew you were going to jail if you hit the tubing ...you wouldn't. Also, added that repairs are $250 a pop! Regardless, I don't want to be back there for a repair. Thanks Guys. Always great info. Mad Dog

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ScottMP

Cheese and Crackers Matt

The guy is laying down sleepers and then nailing down ply. How about just nailing where the nails heads for the sleepers are ?

Maybe he expects you to spray paint the nail heads for him.

As you said with the jail remark, it just takes a Little thought, Not a real lot, just a little.

Tell em to put down the bottle for a day or two untill your job is done

Scott

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Dave H_2

Pierced pipe repairs

If you charge $250 a hole and the nail goes through both sides, is that a charge for two holes or if using staples can it be 4 holes ????!!!!

It sounds like with the layer of ply on top of the sleepers you've got alot of room.

How about making sure the sleepers are 16" O.C. and attach the ply but nail the hardwood into the sleepers only?