Forensic Steam Problem

Constantin

Dear Friends, please note the correction at the bottom of this thread that starts with "<a href="http://forums.invision.net/Thread.cfm?CFApp=2&Thread_ID=24106#Message155240">Please Read: Egg on my face</a>". Due to a misinterpretation on my part as to what boiler "length" is, I mistakenly identified the boiler as a LGB9, when it is, in fact, a LGB6. Please accept my apologies for the oversight, it would have been great if the actual boiler model had been checked off on the nameplate in the first place.

Anyway, let the fireworks begin...

------

... some neighbors of mine recently had the boiler on their 2-pipe steam system replaced. Now, despite updating all the traps, etc. they lack heat in places of their home where they used to have it.

I have enclosed some pictures of the beast, a LGB-9 from Weil-McLain, with an input rate about 8x bigger than the Viessmann in our house (1MBTU/hr!). I am not sure that the sizing is correct, seeing that a good portion of the home was converted over to a separate hot-water system some time ago.

Hence, the total EDR should have dropped. While I think this used to be a continuous 7,000 sq foot residence, the steam-heated portion is probably more like 5000 sq ft today... Here are some issues I think they may be grappling with:

1) The basement is suffocatingly hot and there seems to be no place for the makup air to come from... Some of the new steam pipes are not wrapped, something to be saved for later, I guess. But the lack of a dedicated make-up air inlet concerns me a great deal. Where is my COExperts unit?

2) I took a look at the pressure gauges and they seem to be set too high. Both gray Honeywell boxes are at the first white tick above the #2, which I presume is #4. The honeywell pressuretrol is set at 10psi.

3) I also wonder a bit about the header. While it seems in conformance with Weil-Mc's intent, I would think the 5" riser should have been piped to meet the asbestos-covered stuff up top instead of doing the mambo below?

Any thoughts would be appreciated. More later, I have to run!

tim smith

5\" riser and header?

I don't know if my eyes are deceiving me but that sure does not look like 5" to me. It looks like 2.5 or 3" at the max. Maybe the pics deceiving. If not I would make sure piping is correct. Also seems pressure is set too high to me also. may have to change to another type of pressuretrol.

Firedragon_4

The pressures do seem to high,

the piping is excellent. Would like to get a front shot of the main, but it looks like it's done to textbook at this view, more importantly to the OEMs wishes (bottom line). Those LGBs steam like mad with the right gas pressure.

Have the burners been set, clocked, adjusted and tested?

Get those pipes covered asap.

Constantin

A very good question...

... could anyone tell me what the 5" black steel OD should be? Am I to assume 1/8" wall thickness or more with these pipes?

Keep in mind, this steamer is ginormous... 50" high, 31" wide, and 46" deep... so the pipes may look small because of the porportions...

I am going to educate myself a bit more with Dans books regarding two-pipe systems...

Constantin

Pressuretrol

Here is the pressuretrol. It is leftmost on that branch I showed in the original posting. 10 PSI seems to be the pressure it is set to now. Is this setting correct?

Constantin

Pressuretrols?

Below is the left Pressure control... the right one is attached. Both of them seem to be set for 4psi, right? Forgive me, but I'm not sure how to interpret the scale...

As Firedragon pointed out, since this is a steam system, these are not aquastats as I implied earlier - because they don't adjust water pressure. Instead, they adjust the cut-in pressures of the steam system, apparently in a staged manner. My ignorance as a mere homeowner shines again!

tim smith

pipe od should be appx 5.5\"

can't believe my eyes if those are 5". But maybe the perspective is just off in pic. I agree with firedragon, piping looks good as long as size is right.

Constantin

Here are the mains...

.... there is a mains up top where it ties into the house distribution mains, then there is the mains coming off of the boiler feeding into it. I believe you were interested in the lower one? I've made that one visible...

tim smith

pressuretrol setting

Looks like the cut in is set at 3, inside cover you would find differential if it is not fixed. That means the cut out is probably 4 or 5, drop down to .5 or so and see how it does. Careful as you get down to bottom of scale the spring inside gets real loose and the screw can actually come off of tripper inside. Good luck. PS, don't change the one with clear cover as this is the safety manual reset one and if it trips there is a problem with the operating controls.

tim smith

pipes look bigger in this pic

But still does not look as big as the 4" flue pipe in background on water heater. You will see.

Firedragon_4

Okay, these are all

pressure controls. I don't know why there are three unless the burners are stepped fired. I couldn't see that in the manual, but it was a cursory look because I'm on the way out to a meeting. One may just be a backup?

The two solid cover one's are PA404's they should be set about a pound apart for both cut-in's (viewable) and differentials, inside box. They should be set just to supply enough steam to do the job. This is all based on step-firing.

The vaporstat (clear cover) is the manual reset (small lever on top) required by the MA Boiler Code. As long as it's under 15 psi it complies. Personally I like to set them for cut-out at 3 pounds over the operating limit.

There are no aquastats (water) shown.

Manual: http://weil-mclain.com/FTP/LGB_Manuals/LGB_Boiler_Manual.pdf

Al Corelli - Agix Associates

Am I the only one who wants to know where the pigtails are?

Did I miss something?

Unknown

No need for pigtails

The installer made his own pigtail tree . Many manufacturers recommend this type of setup with commercial sized steamers .

Unknown

How are they heating the hot water zones ?

My first thought would be to measure up all the radiation and see if the boiler is matched to the steam load . I've installed million btu steamers in 20 unit apartment buildings . Much , much larger than 7000 sq ft residences .

I agree with the others that think the boiler supply is less than 5 inch . Looks more like 3 or 4 inch , comparing it to the control piping and other parts of the boiler that I know the size of . I would have piped the supply into the main like you suggested , eliminating the existing elbows they connected to , and the bushings . It would have given the steam main a bigger size to push the steam up , and neatened the install . Matter of fact , it looks like they were most of the way there with the existing main . Could have ran one boiler supply pipe in the main pipe . They would have to change the end of the main since it ends in a bull headed tee , but that don't look too hard . Drop the correct size equalizer at the end of the existing main and it's a done deal .

Just had a 2nd look at the pic . Is that pipe all the way to the left , the one connected at the bull headed tee , the only return pipe ? This can't be a counterflow system if you say he replaced traps , can it ?

ThermalJake

Double header

does it seem like a double header before it becomes a main? It is probably okay as far as dry steam, and is actually more than what the book recommends, so is there a down side? (besides the appearance of confusion)

Firedragon_4

I think the big

white thing on the left is a water heater :-)

Bob_19

I would

also start back and work my way forward.
Check to see if the units are getting steam initaily, there could be an air or water lock, traps have been known to be faulty out of the box, also debris could be blocking the outlet. Crack a union abit on the steam side at the suspected units and see what happens. If the boiler is firing and no steam begins to appear then you have resolved that it's not a locking situation, be careful not to confuse flash steam with live steam. This will tell you if it's a supply loading problem.

The hi-limit is fine at 10psig, go lower if it makes you(them)feel comfortable.

Constantin

Update!

Gentlemen,

Many thanks for all of your excellent thoughts on the system. I had another look today, and come away somewhat worried.

I confirmed that there is no makup air anywhere down there. Over 1.5MBTU of heating capacity and not a single 12" inlet or whatever to supply combustion air. Scares me just thinking about it... I wonder what my CO Experts unit would do if I ventured down there with it...

The exposed mains piping over the boiler is a nominal 4" OD. The circumference was 14.25", not the 17.25" I was expecting based on a 5.5" OD. Since the piping was so neat, I wondered how the installers had done it, until I took a closer look at the boiler and saw the reducing bushing they had inserted into the side before attaching the mains piping. It was done so neatly, it was hard to see. (see header.jpg, attached below)

The header over the boiler now features two equalizing loops as best as I can tell (see boiler picture below). The orange pipe I drew shows what I presume is the second equalizing loop. I presume that if the LGB were tied directly into the large header above that the second equalizer (i.e. the new one) will become obsolete, right?

Interestingly, some of their no-heat issues seem to be returns related as one pipe leading to a radiator is hot, while the radiator is cold. Sounds to me like a blockage in the return piping...

Anyway, as they'll have an engineer coming over, I thought I'd put together a laundry list of issues. Here goes:

• Measure remaining EDR. What size boiler was actually required?
• If they want to stay with the extant boiler, adjust the piping to be the right size and have it attach to the topmost header directly.
• Where is the combustion air coming from? Install a inlet, if needed
• Adjust the cut-in pressure on boiler
• Clean out clogged returns
• Install proper CO detector

Any additional thoughts and so on would be appreciated, as usual! Thanks everyone!

t. tekushan

oy!

Golly.
W-M LGB 9 is designed for an EDR of 2,633 s.f.
You say approximately 5000 s.f. of area. Even if you have lousy insulation and 9' ceilings you couldn't be in for more than 40 btu/s.f. (Be sure to go ahead with plans to measure actual EDR).

Lets see, thats 5,000sf*40btu/sf=200,000btu.
200,000btu/240btu/sf= 833 and some change.

The LGB doesn't come small enough! Although I could see an LGB 4 or 5 if it is supplying domestic hot water. But it sure seems as though the difference between 270,000 mbh gross required for heating and the LGB 9's 842,000 mbh gross could supply a LOT of hot water.

You might be a touch oversized here imho.

(we heat 6750 sf [including a ground floor w/12' ceilings and 750sf uninsulated glass] with a w-m LGB 6 with no problem)

P.S. Are there air vents on the dry return??? And if there are, is there steam coming from them?

I'm visualizing a situation where return venting is non existent or inadequate. Do you suppose a pressurized return is preventing passage of steam into some of the risers?

Is it possible that a dry return is no longer at the proper grade, perhaps having been disturbed by the repiping?

Hey, just grasping here...

Unknown

Constantin

Your diagrams on the picture are exactly how I would repipe the boiler . Are you sure you're just a mere homeowner ?

Are there any return pipes on this system , other than the existing equalizer ? If this is a counterflow system , tieing into the main pipe is a bit different .

Constantin

Well, that's one of the things I need to know more about...

Thanks for the help!

... I'm not sure how venting is done on a two-pipe system, I haven't read that chapter yet. From what I can tell, they have a number of traps throughout the house that allow water to roll back to the boiler OR the condensate pumps.

The traps are located near radiator take-offs and sometimes just at a twist in the main. A very small diameter pipe then carries the water back to the boiler and/or the condensate pump next to the boiler.

One of the weird aspects is that I would think that all returns should go to the condensate pump, not just some. Yet on this system, it appears that some returns are piped into the boiler directly, while others go into the condensate pump. Could this be part of the problem?

In the picture below, I'm shooting from next to the boiler out to the room in front of it. Thus, the position of the boiler, pipes, and so on is reversed from the other pictures. Note the new equalizer, the old one, and the apparent return to the far right. Shouldn't said return have a vent?

Lastly, where should I find the vents on a two-pipe system? I didn't see any, but that doesn't mean they aren't there... for example, the ITT "Watchman" condensate pump in the floor pit has a vent... Ah, time to read the Lost art...

Constantin

Also consider...

... while Weil-McLain only requires taking off from both sides of the boiler for the larger LGB series, I would have installed a large header that starts at the left rear, that continued across the boiler to the other side, picking up the second take-off, then turning 90 deg, coming to the front, turning 90 deg to enter the header.

The diagram below shows an exagerrated representation, meant to illustrate the pipe directions and all that. Since the header is high up, I don't think they'll need any drop-headers... But such an arrangement should allow for very dry steam, thermal expansion/contraction, etc. Right?

Mad Dog

10 PSI??????????????????????????????????????????????/

The empire state building runs on 4 psi. Bring it all the way down dude. Mad Dog

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Constantin

Well, they're 4\" pipes...

... I think someone tried to save some cash by going down a size. Either that, or they read the wrong page in the manual (the LGB-9 in water operation is OK with 4" mains..., it's the steam version that requires 5" mains). So, your eyes were right, it is undersized by an inch.

... am I glad this is not my problem...

--------------------------------------
Please note: The above refers to the LGB erroneously as a LGB9, when it is a LGB6. For the record, a LGB6 in steam operation is OK with 4" headers and risers, so this boiler is piped according to Weil-Mc specifications.

Constantin

Thanks Ron!

You're too kind, but yes, I remain a mere homeowner, for my ignorance is immense in all things heating... For example, what is a counterflow system, and how would I recognize one? :-)

I look at your beautiful installs in less than ideal conditions, and just shake my head at this one. There was plenty of space around the boiler. Easy access to everything, yet it was still muddled up. Nevermind the more serious issues like the lack of combustion air (!!!), the high pressure settings, the likely gross oversizing of this boiler, etc.

Granted, the ceiling and the headers are high enough that none of your beautiful drop headers are required, but I have yet to understand the logic of having two equalizing loops instead of one. Furthermore, the undersized header piping (4" instead of 5") is a potentially problematic oversight on the part of the installer.

I show a diagram below on how I would repipe the boiler to take advantage of both take-offs, even if Weil McLain only requires one take-off be used for this model. The black pipe is the new stuff, while the Red piping is the extant steam header and hartford loop. What do you think?

Constantin

According to Firedragon, this 10psi is the safety cutout..

... does that seem right? The boiler is rated for 15psi, IIRC.

Either way, I think the two cut-ins have to be adjusted down quite a bit. That should help the steam propagate through the mains. The only other question is what to look for in terms of venting on a two-pipe steam system. Where would the vents be, besides on top of the condensate pump?

Constantin

Some answers for Ron, Jr.

Sorry about that.... the hot water zones in the home (as well as the potable hot water) are all heated by different appliances. Two water heaters (gas fired) heat the water for the apartments, a small boiler keeps the hydronic side of the house warm.

The return you noticed (i.e. the bullheaded T under the insulation, right?) heads down for a Hartford loop. Feeding into the same loop is the condensate pump for the rest of the heating system. A further return seems to be tied directly into the boiler instead of going to the condensate pump. If you look at the pictures below, you can see the bottom of the Hartford loop with (right to left) the condensate return, the upper bull-headed T-return, what I think is a water feeder, lastly, the new equalizer.

Is it normal on a two-pipe system to have some returns go to the condensate pump and some returns attached directly to the boiler? It would seem to me that if a return were piped the boiler directly, that said return should have a vent. Otherwise, where will the air go? Any thoughts?

Firedragon_4

Okay, here we go.

You'll notice the clear cover control only has one adjustment (cut-out) that's the limit safety (manual). Let's go ahead and turn it down to 5 psi just for conversation.

The PA404's won't probably setup this way and we still don't know if there's step firing, but let's say there is.

Set the low-fire (you'll have to find out which one) to cut-in 0.5 psi with a two psi differential and the high fire to cut in at 0.5 psi with a one psi differential. I'm still not sure if one of these isn't a 'B' control, so I'm winging it big time here.

BTW Constantin, other than the control settings and the lack of outside air who's going to pay for all of this?

The contractor is REQUIRED to setup the burners, provide adequate air and adjust the controls for proper operation, FACT!

But, the piping is to OEM spec and Weil-McLain would back him on that, they have to, he did it right!

So, who is going to pay for all of this?

No offense, but I wouldn't do it for nothing. Personally, I'd tell you, well you know........
Sorry!

The problem is 150 guys can look at this and want to to it their way, but it's done to the OEMs way and that's what counts, but it's just my opinion.

I'm also quite sure there is no one here that would like anyone else criticizing their work.

Mad Dog

I don't see a manual reset button on it

they are usually Red and are built right in to the glass face plate. Mad Dog

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Mad Dog

In any case, a residential 2-pipe steam system high limit

needn't be any higher than 3-4 psi if the system is vented proporly. Mad Dog

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[Deleted User]

Here goes.

Your dimensions confirm it is an LGB-9. Some installers mark, or install, the wrong rating plate. Seems way too
big. The header, except for being undersized is piped correctly, assuming the bottom of the header is @ least 24" above the 33 7/16" water line. It is not unusual for returns on lower floor radiators, or where a buried return has been abandoned, to connect to a condensate pump. However, it is UNUSUAL to have a vent connected to the receiver overflow. If the receiver can't vent, the returns will air lock. Even if the vent is operating, it will probably not vent fast enough. Remove the vent. Pipe the over flow full size.

If in fact, all of the returns don't go back to the receiver, they must be vented to remove the air. Are you sure about the return(s) configuration? The receiver holds 6 gallons of water. In this case that is a good thing. Since the float kicks the pump on & off, the small capacity should prevent flooding of the boiler. Even then, piping the pump discharge properly will help prolong pump life, & reduce wear & tear on the piping at the H/L.

Yes. Reduce the pressure. You have 3 pressure controls because Weil ships 2 PA404's w/ all of their commercial steam boilers. Only 1 is required when the Manual Reset L404C is added to the mix. Pick either of the PA404's. Set the Cut In as close to .5 # as possible, while leaving some tension on the spring. Take the cover off & set the Differential (white wheel) to 1 or 1 1/2#. The differential is additive. Drag is correct. A manual Reset setting of approx. 3# above operator setting is enough.

Something you did not address. How well is the water in the gage glass behaving? Is it bouncing up and down violently? Do you see water coming from the top of the glass down to the water line? Is the water discolored? The well house broken LGB water line will move about 1/2" while steaming. Grossly wet steam will exacerbate the problems you are describing.

There is a way to reduce to input to match an LGB-8. Then the piping will match. Having another 6 gallons of boiler water content is also not a bad thing. However, the modification is frowned upon by most folks @ this site.

I would not worry about the old equalizer. It is necessary to drip the old header. While the re-use of the old header is not eye appealing, I see no operational problem.
Noted the feeder tees in the return on the system side of the H/L. Really should be between the equalizer & the boiler, with a check valve in the feed water connection @ the return. Another of the checks & balances.

Did not see a 2nd low water cutoff. If there is none, that is, or should be, a code violation. A dry boiler, with 1 mil btus input, will get ugly in a hurry.

Can you take some pics of the ends of the mains? Might answer some of the questions about how the returns do their thing. Good luck.

Constantin

George, allow me to disagree

I don't think this thread is about bashing the installer or trying to find fault with the install. Rather, it is aimed at resolving why my neighbors don't have heat in their home while paying beaucoup de bucks to heat their place.

Furthermore, several contractors do post their installs here because they're inviting constructive criticism (Take Mad Dog, Ron Jr., Heat Boy, Bill Nye, Dan Foley, Mark Eatherton, Mike T, S. Milne, S. Davis, and others as examples) As I see it, the Wall is about sharing knowledge, helping people in need, and improving your skills in the trade. Criticism has its place, as long as its warranted, to the point, and polite.

There are many ways that steam systems can be piped correctly and you can argue until you're blue in the face which one is best. However, a good starting point tends to be the reading and understanding of the comprehensive install instructions that came with the LGB-9. Those instructions were not followed, as best as I can tell. For that matter, was the LGB-9 required in the first place?

Based on the manual, several issues were overlooked, starting with the source of combustion air (none supplied) and ending with the header (undersized by an inch). Surely, Weil McLain doesn't write its specifications into its comprehensive manuals for fun? For that matter, the manual and the checklist for commissioning were nowhere to be found. Makes you wonder.

Secondly, I'm not going to touch anything on this system. That's not my role, I'm not a pro, I'm simply trying to help my neighbors get a proper heating system that doesn't cost an arm and a leg to operate ($1100 for Janurary!). Furthermore, I'll be happy to put them in touch with a pro here, if that is what they desire (but that is their decision, not mine).

For that matter, the steamer is installed. But surely Weil McLain wouldn't advocate installing a steamer that probably has at least twice the EDR rating as the attached EDR in the house? This is not greenhouse, it's only 5,000 sq feet or so of 1920's two-pipe steam-heated space. Despite replacing traps, installing TRV's etc. parts of the house still do not heat.

I heard that the contractor has been out a number of times, pulling his hair out, to no avail. However, if I were the HO, I'd be pretty damn ticked off after spending a ton of money to have a house that is cold, huge gas bills, etc. If I were the contractor, I'd learn to read the manual and install systems to spec and eat the cost when I don't get it right the first time, like Dan Foley. But that's me because I hold my professional reputation above profits.

Firedragon_4

Okay, well we all

have the right to disagree! If the guy doesn't know then call Weil-McLain.

Weil-McLain NEW ENGLAND
100 Medway Road
Suite 303
Milford, MA 01757
TEL: 508/478-6800
FAX: 508/478-6869

Tony Conner_2

The Pressure...

...switch will trip the burner, before the steam pressure in the boiler gets high enough to pop the safety valve. It COULD be set higher - anything up to - say - 14 PSIG, but why? If it ever gets to anywhere near 10 PSIG on this boiler, there's something wrong.

The safety valve will be required to lift at 15# steam pressure to prevent the boiler from being classified as a high pressure unit. If it lifts at anything over 15#, a whole bunch of ASME codes show up. This will mean a lot of money spent, for no particular reason. This application will work just fine at low pressure. The pressure switch, tied-into the burner controls, is usually required by whatever the fuel utilization code is, in the jurisdiction.

Constantin

... an attempt at a comprehensive reply...

I measured 58" from the floor to the underside of the header. The boiler is 50" tall from the floor. 34" off of 50" is 16" plus 8" is 24", so the header is installed at the right minimum height, even if it is too small.

I have to confirm the lack of venting on the one mystery return pipe by following it back to where it comes from. I saw no vents but that doesn't mean that they aren't lurking in the shadows somewhere. I need to bring my flashlight, the CO Detector, and my camera...

I will check the boiler water levels in sight glass the next time I'm there but recall brown-colored water in the sight glass. Enclosed is a picture of one of the traps in a bend, with additional pipes coming down from the dining room, etc. from above and feeding into a ~1" pipe (black). Is this what you were looking for?

Also attached is a side-view of the boiler controls. Why all this stuff had to be mounted on the side of the boiler that is least accessible is a mystery to me. After all, the boiler is happy with having returns come in from two sides, so the equalizing stuff could have stayed on the left-hand side, the condensate return, water feeder, etc. could have fed in via the right-hand side.

Constantin

Please Read: Egg on my face...

... this is what happens when you measure boilers and then apply the wrong measurement to the nameplate guide... this is a LGB6, duh, as the boiler is measured sideways for capacity, not lengthwise. Those side-mounted takeoffs should have been a hint and a half, I guess.

Just goes to show, I'm a mere homeowner, not a steam heating specialist. And, Firedragon, I am happy to report when I'm wrong. It would have been helpful if the unit had had it's nameplate indicated...

Be that as it may, this is very good news for the homeowner as it means that the header piping is OK, even if the pressure is set too high and some of the radiators do not heat (yet). Whether the return is blocked, the venting on the returns is inadequate or nonexistent, etc. is a conundrum I leave to the heating specialist.

However, even if it's a LGB6, I suspect that the boiler is way oversized. With 1600 ft² of EDR capacity, a 395kBTU/hr IBR steam rating, I simply wonder if the extant system can have either that much heat loss or as many attached radiators to justify that capacity. They have a brick house, we had clapboard and no insulation, yet for quite similar footprints their boiler is supposed to be 3x bigger than our old Williamson oil furnace? Something doesn't add up.

Interestingly, when they installed the boiler, the house thermostat was moved downstairs, now they're moving it back to the upper floor. The apparent hope is that the boiler will fire longer with a call for heat from upstairs than from downstairs. With TRV's on the radiators the Thermostat ought to remain in the coldest part of the house...

Someone also remarked to the homeowner that the boiler was "dancing" in the sightglass, and that it should be cleaned. I saw that the stuff had a slightly rust-colored appearance. Given how well the pipes were put together, I'd be surprised if they didn't skim the unit...

Someone also measured the radiators in the place, which should allow them to determine the proper EDR rating required. Combined with TRV valves the place ought to heat well and be very, very comfortable.

So, all in all, very good news. Adjusting the pressure down and figuring out the vent requirements on some of the returns is simple business. Adding a combustion air source allegedly was "not required by Cambridge code", though it may now happen. More as news arrives.

(picture courtesy of the TN State ROTC program. If I had the wife around we could have done the real thing...)

Firedragon_4

No problem with me

Constantin. I make mistakes all the time.

That fresh air thing may not be a requirement in Cambridge, but it is in MA and the last time I looked the PRC was still part of the state :-)

[Deleted User]

Muy bueno.

The W dimension on the LGB 9 is 46". You're not the 1st to make that mistake.

There are 2 LWCOs. A 47-2 (feeds too) & a 63. Looks like the installer knows the right heights. Page 23 of the Weil I&O mandates that the water level control be installed on the equalizer end of the boiler.

That thingamajiggy on the main line drip is an F&T Trap. That means that return must run back to a vented-to- atmosphere condensate receiver. Only other way to get the air out is with a vent ahead of the trap. Don't see one. I would take the vent off the receiver overflow now. If steam comes out, traps need repair or replacement. Steam leaking into the receiver will close the vent. Then the returns air lock. Big problem. Well done Watson.

Constantin

Here is the source of confusion...

... define what is length and I'll define the boiler for you. Since I didn't have a handy-dandy drawing in front of me, I had no idea that "Length" according to Weil-McLains definition is measured across this boiler, not front to back as silly homeowners like me would assume... Plus, it doesn't help when the boiler is exactly 46" front-to-back...

Oh well... Chalk up another lesson in counting boiler sections!

However, I would extremely surprised if the attached EDR in the place is going to come close to the 1,600 ft² of EDR steam that the LGB6 can supply. Since there are no other loads on the boiler besides heat, I have the sneaking suspicion that they could probably heat the place next door as well with that boiler. Time (and the EDR measurements) will tell.

Meanwhile, there is still the mystery regarding the lack of heat in certain areas. I'll have another look at that pipe which may or may not be a return to see how it is piped. It just seems odd to have a pipe coming directly into the steamer (if that's what it is) when all the other ones go for the condensate pump.

Steamhead

Constantin, if certain radiators don't heat

trace the return piping back to the boiler and see if the air can get out. If it can't you've found the problem. Many times the installer will have inadvertantly installed a water-seal before the receiving tank, which will pass water but stop air.

As always, I wonder if that tank and pump are really needed.

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Boiler Guy

Constantin

Is this unit set up for Hi/Lo firing operation? With 3 Ptrols I could easily be led to believe that may be the case. If so, try operating the boiler on Lo fire only to provide a longer run cycle. My 2c