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Weil McLain Ultra Boilers
Jim Wy.
Member Posts: 43
Has anyone out there had any good or bad experiences using Weil-McLain Ultra 310 boilers? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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Comments
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Weil-McLain Ultra Boilers
Has anyone out there had any good or bad experiences using Weil-McLain Ultra 310 boilers? Any input would be greatly appreciated.0 -
Can't go wrong with Ultra's
The Weil Mclain Ultra boiler has been a great product for us.
We have over 50 of them in the field and working super.
Have had a few fan assemblies go on the Ultra 310, but thats about it.0 -
Ultras 155
we have a few 155 out there that are leakers and its been 8 month wait for parts (bolt and bushing).The bolt is leaking at 10 o'clock on the boiler block.Combustion on all had to be adjusted from factory.Had an 105 that had bad co reading but could not adjust inti specs.Called rep up we spent 5 hrs on the boiler disassemble the unit down to the block and put back together could not find anything but the unit was able to get into specs.We figure there had to be an air leak some where and we fixed it by the reassemble got to love it.Stopped putting in Ultra after that now its trinity for me.Hope this helps good luck
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Thankyou very much for your input. My costomer has to leave his house vacant 2/3 of the time w/ his work. So we really need reliability & we also need a monitering system w/ a set of dry contacts for the alarm company.Problems could be very expensive sense the key and the alarm company are in a different state 140 miles away.0 -
Ultra..
I like the Ultra, I also like the fact WM fixed the hard lockout thingy when there is a power failure. Really wish I had time to actually read the manual though. I get to about page 23 or so, then zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz. Got 6 in the field, the only failure was on the first one, got egg on me face when part of the house froze...Robert O'Connor/NJ0 -
Note however the problem with the leaking inspection ports has been taken care of on all new models0 -
Power
What did they do to fix it? Can I get mine updated?0 -
Robert, if you have more info...
on the hard lockout problem and solution, I would also be very interested in details. Thank you!0 -
jim.
WM has solved the lockout problem, how? I don't have a clue but several we installed after the first all experienced power failures and the units all reset. WM is a great boiler but I still have reservations about installing in either areas prone to power outages or not having alarm circuits dedicated in the buildings alarm systems. If you install one, and have an alarm in the house, wire a low temperature alarm if you're a traveler..Robert O'Connor/NJ0 -
Thanks, Robert...
I would guess that the issue was addressed by Honeywell, since they make the ignition control. It's a help to get information from the vendors and the field guys on problems like this.0 -
The new ignition modules...
are a second generation..... fixed some bugs, but as with any boiler with a computerized control module I would always install surge protection ahead of the boiler.
The leaking plugs can be replaced in a few minutes with a plug kit that WM stocks, if anyone is waiting 8 months for it, they should seriously check into a new rep., as usual the product is only as good as the people behind it and the weakest link in that chain....I'd be willing to bet that you could get warranty coverage for any leakage also.....
That problem has long been corrcted also.....
As for the boiler..... I would recommend it highly.... I have a number of them out there and one in my own house.... I have beat the crap out of a couple of them on purpose tring to get them to fail, with no success.
As with ANY product make SURE that the installer knows his stuff and is comfortable with the installtion, if you are doing it you self, make sure that you know and read the manual.....these are not your everday run of the mill boiler.
Do your homework and you'll not be dissapointed...
Floyd0 -
Floyd
I am finally getting around to lowering the fan speed of my 230, you may recall that it is oversized and I am trying to correct this. Needless to say I will do a combustion analysis on the boiler once I make these changes, is there anything else I need to do? Also, the boiler is working fantastic however I am noticing a small stain around one of the bolts on the block. Is this what you mean by a leaking plug? If so what does changing this plug involve?
Thanks once again
John
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John...
There should be nothing else that you have to do... all you are really doing is just limiting the high end of the fan speed, not changing anything else.
The (bolts) are not really bolts... they are plugs that cap off holes that I belive are used to cast the monoblock casting......the original plugs had some problems with leakage, mostly on the top end of the boiler where the most temp. differantials were....WM has a kit that they put out with like five new plugs and a 12mm allen wrench to remove the old plugs with and install the new ones. The worst plug to change is the one that is about in the 2 o'clock position , as it is behind the intake, but even that can be changed in a few minutes. I can look up the part# if you want.. Just got home from a cruise and am trying to get my head screwed on straight again... :-)
AND get caught up on everything... checked the wall from the ship every few days, but still have to get caught up here also....Also hope that the airline finds our ten bags of luggage somewhere at the Phila. airport... :-)
Let me know if you need any more info......
Floyd0 -
Thanks
The part #'s would be a great help. When I change the plugs I don't have to drain anything do I? Thanks for your response, I was getting worried that you didn't make it through the snowstorm.0 -
...the weil kit I just installed had 12 plugs if I remember right. You have to pull the front of the comb. chamber and water drained out. Not to bad if you have isolation valves.0 -
I had 2 bad Blower mtrs in 1 month on new 310 boilers0 -
Ultra 155 size
Wellllll, we just installed a new WM Ultra 155 and am wondering if our installer sized it right for our home. We have two zone hw baseboard with the main floor having 150 ft. or so of radiation and the second zone/floor having about 50 ft.
Watching the h2o outlet temp when zone two is calling shows it heats the system water up to 190F in about 10 minutes or so then it will cycle on/off between 172 and 192...it seems to me that's the way it's supposed to work.
The main floor (zone one with the 150' of radiation) is another story. It takes just about one hour to heat to 190 outlet temp. The zone one's piping is much larger as well (don't know why, that's the way they built the house).
When both zones are calling for heat (both circulators running) the outlet temp creeps up even slower. This just doesn't seem right to me...but then, I'm not an HVAC professional.
ALSO, is there a way to interface the Ultra with a PC for monitoring? (I'm a computer network engineer and have a CAT 5/wireless net in my home).
Any thoughts on these two issues anyone???
Thanks,
Dave
P.S. I really like the Ultra, but think I got undersized.0 -
Dave, your just fine.....
in fact if I was the installer for your job I would be making that puppy run longer run cycles than that!!!!! I have my 155 in my house setup so that it runs almost constant at 0* like it is this morning..... actually it is only running up to 170 or so even at 0*......My radiantion can handle the load of the house with 170* water at 0*......
To get the best eff. from that boiler you WANT it to run the longest run cycles possible at the lowest water temps possible to satisfy the load of the structure..... By doing this you will also not want to set back the t-stat too much at night, maybe only a couple of degrees, because the boiler will not have to extra heat to catch things back up, however you will still be running more eff. than if you let it go wild and set the thing way back.
Did your contractor hookup the outdoor reset????? That will also keep your boiler running at lower temps. when it is warmer outside and you do not need 190* water to heat the house.
WM makes an interface kit to hook the boiler to your PC and than you can monitor and change the parameters of the boiler from the PC. The one thing that I would do first off is to disable the "boost" feature that WM builds into the boile from the factory. Did that to make the boiler work more like a conventional boiler, however it runs the boiler temps too high, too fast and kills some of the greatest advantages of the boiler. Just something that WM did too keep the crying down from people who don't understand what a real condenser should be doing........
I'm sure you'll have a ton more ?????? fire away!!!!!!
Floyd
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Floyd,
Thanks for the quick reply and it's very helpful!
Do you know where I can get the Ultra PC interface kit...and how much it costs??
Dave0 -
Any WM dealer....
has access to the interface kit. Check with the dealer that installed your boiler or find out who the distributor was....
Don't quote me on this, but I think that the kit sells in the couple hundred dollar range....
Good luck and have fun with it!!!
Floyd0 -
Interface kit
I have been waiting for the interface kit since the begining of December. A tough item to get.
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...couple hundred dollars??? sheesh...maybe I'll pass...
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outdoor reset
...I do have the outdoor temp sensor installed, but I have to move it to the north side of the house. In the daytime it shows on avg. about 10* higher than it should. The only thing that will concern me is the length of wire run to get it there; it'll be just over 60'. Is there a wire spec for this sensor? Right now it's using telephone hookup wire.
Thanks!0 -
Outdoor Reset
I have not been able to find how to adjust the outdoor reset. Is there a way to adjust them? The factory 35 is just to cold. We have had many complaints on the boiler shutting down on Warm Weather Shut Down when in is too cool outside. Do you have any thoughts on this?0 -
60' will work just fine....
you may have to use 18 ga. t-stat wire, the 24 ga.
bell wire may not be heavy enough.
Floyd0 -
Here's everything you need to know..
about how to change the parameters.0 -
Reverse Return
Floyd,
Since I now maintain my home at a comfortable 70*, with constant circulation and a tight reset curve, and an Ultra running about 20 to 22 hours everyday, I suppose there really is no reason to reconfigure my two pipe system from a direct return to reverse return is there? There also is no real reason to zone it considing all my rooms are somewhat comfortable, since setback is not really much of an option with a tight reset curve?
However, my upstairs is till about 1.5 to sometimes 2* different than downstairs. Would zoning and a reverse return really make a difference?
Reynz0 -
Is the upstairs warmer or cooler???
If the up is cooler than I would leave well enough alone.....
If you are hotter than I would just try to break it off on a separate zone. Rev. return will only help to balance out heat to a somewhat common area.
Don't try to get too cute!!!
Floyd0 -
Zones
You should zone it so you have a zone for every room & the doghouse as well. :^ )0 -
Cooler Upstairs
Ok Mr Leadpipe, Cadillac hydronic system in the house with closet warmers, and one in the doghouse becuase I find myself there often, (but haven't caught any neighbors running out the backdoor when I get home) how are things going with your project?????
Floyd, too cute? Have you seen my picture in the post office? Yep, upstairs is about 1.5 to occasionally 2* cooler than the downstairs. Guess I don't have much room to complain, huh?0 -
interface kit
...can this be orderd online? I've been looking but no luck so far...
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Thanks
Thanks Floyd that helps a bunch!0 -
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interface kit
Does anyone know if the WM computer interface kit is available online? I've been looking and no luck so far. Our installer doesn't seem like he wants to be bothered...0 -
As best I can tell....
it is not available online.
You may be able to convince a WM distributor to sell you one IF they can get it.
The response to the interface kit has far exceeded their expectations and even some of the WM Reps. do not even have the kits.
Have been told the price is closer to 125.00 than 200.00
Floyd0 -
summer/winter switch
Floyd,
For the summer/winter switch; my installer didn't put one on our Ultra 155 and I'm going to do it myself. Does the wiring have to be a certain gauge or the switch have to be a certain type? I was going to use 18 ga. wire and a simple Radio Shack type toggle switch...?
Dave0 -
Doesn't the Ultra controls
Have a warm weather shut down function?0 -
Dave...
The summer/winter switch is an option deal just to make a positive shut off for heat for the summer.... you already have the OD sensor hooked up so if you still have the factory setup in there the boiler with shutoff for heat at 70 anyway.
If you want to do it, 18 ga. wire and a toggle will do just fine.
Floyd0 -
OK. Here are the facts. The heat loss for my house is 70,000 btu/hr. I plan on doubling the size of the house within the nextten years. I also plan on adding a loop of baseboard in my finished basement. My question is this. Will it be ok to use a WM ultra 230 now that way I don't have to change it out when I do the addition?
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Yes
The WM Ultra allows an adjustment to reduce the size (I guess they call it the blower speed) to adjust for oversizing. I have done it for my house. My 155 is oversized for my house and I scaled it down a little.
So, the answer is yes...0
This discussion has been closed.
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