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new boiler old system

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Comments

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,504
    Yes you do

    That's probably a "Circuit" system where one main wraps around the basement. 80 feet of 3-inch pipe contains 4.24 cubic feet of air. Technically this is within the capacity of a single Gorton #2 vent (5.5 cubic feet per minute) but I'd use two of these vents, since a long pipe like that has more internal resistance than two shorter ones handling the same load.

    If you can't find Gortons in your area, call Gorton at 908-276-1323 and tell them I sent you. They will sell direct to you if no one in your area handles their gear.

    The old boiler probably produced steam at a slower rate than the new one. That's why they could get away with smaller vents. New boilers make lots of steam quickly, and need more venting capacity.

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  • Dave Merklein
    Dave Merklein Member Posts: 61


    Is there a way to get away with replaceing the single vent I have now?? I hate paying to have more asbestos removed but I want to make it right. where would you suggest the placement of the second vent be. you are correct the main wraps arround the basement in a large square.
  • kevin coppinger_4
    kevin coppinger_4 Member Posts: 2,124
    I could be wrong but....

    if you add in a tee & a 90 at the same spot this will give you the spot. Just don't bullhead the tee...see what others say...kpc
  • Boilerpro_3
    Boilerpro_3 Member Posts: 1,231
    Say Steamhead and Dave...

    Two thoughts..... is your steam travel time for warm or cold pipes? If the pipes are cold its bond to be slower since the steam needs to warm up the pipes as it goes. And second, maybe larger vents aren't needed. Remember vent the mains quickly is only part one of master venting, part two is vent the radiators slowly. If the rads vent too quickly, the steam is going to head for the rads before it gets to the end of the system. A few Gorton D's , or a few more adjustable vents set to full open are going to out vent even 2 Gorton 2's and throw the system out of balance. I think there was a reason the old Hofmman 40's were so slow to vent... it allowed the steam to favor the main at low steam pressures and once pressure built some in the system after the main vents closed, venting began to occur much more quickly at the rads.

    Boilerpro
  • Dave Merklein
    Dave Merklein Member Posts: 61


    My radiator vents are adjustable, I believe my vents on the second floor are wide open. what is the best stratagie for setting these vents?????
  • Dave Merklein
    Dave Merklein Member Posts: 61


    Does this look like its set high???
  • It's set over 5 PSI

    > Does this look like its set high???



  • It's set over 5 PSI

    It looks a little high, about 3 times too much for what you need, and about twice what the control can be set to on the low end and still work properly.

    Noel
  • Dave Merklein
    Dave Merklein Member Posts: 61


    could this contribute to my problem with the hissing radiators?????? can I just adjust down ?????
  • Boilerpro_3
    Boilerpro_3 Member Posts: 1,231
    It depends...

    On the size of the radiator, type of radiator, the heat loss of the room, and the size of the riser. The only place I know to find sizing data for radiator vents is in the Deadman's Steam school workbook. Steamhead researched this info. Look over at books and more to purchase this info. Generally, with my limited steam knowledge, I don't open the vents more than about a third (a 3 out 10). Oh course if you have huge column style radiators that changes things. It all depends. This is where a good steam professional really helps. Experience and intuition play a big role here, besides doing the homework.

    Boilerpro
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,504
    Installing Main Vents

    Just pipe a tee onto the existing vent connection as Kevin says, and an elbow that will make the second vent stand straight up. And turn that pressuretrol down! Five pounds is way too high. Turn the screw on top counterclockwise so the pointer is at trhe bottom of the scale. Then TURN THE POWER OFF, remove the cover and turn the little white wheel inside so the number 1 points toward the front of the control. Replace the coverand turn the power on. The control will now stop the burner at 1.5 PSI and restart it at 1/2 PSI.

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  • Dave Merklein
    Dave Merklein Member Posts: 61


    Is this the type of set up your talking about
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,504
    Exactly

    I have a bunch of these vent manifolds out there and they work great.

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  • Dave Merklein
    Dave Merklein Member Posts: 61


    Im thinking this is still a problem too. This is after four flushes by the contractor. my manual doesnt really cover how to flush the boiler. (weil-mclain EG 55). what is the proper procedure???
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,504
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • Dave Merklein
    Dave Merklein Member Posts: 61


    I installed a single Gorton #2 vent in my main, I still have the hissing radiators. my guestion is will a second Gorton # 2 make a big dif. also after re examination it looks like my mains are 2in./ 80 ft. I was thinking maybe my radiator valves are dirty after firing up the new boiler. I was thinking of removing them and cleaning them in vineger. any suggestions ?????
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,504
    It will help

    since more air will now go out the second Gorton instead of thru the radiator vents.

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  • DAVE MERKLEIN_2
    DAVE MERKLEIN_2 Member Posts: 6


    Gortons are in through out the house and I have 2 #2's on the main. still getting hissing and panting. I plan to do a flush, any other ideas????
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,504
    That's your next step

    make sure you follow Weil-McLain's instructions to the letter! That boiler has gaskets between the sections and you don't want to ruin them.

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This discussion has been closed.