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Change Some Pipes
Jamie Hall
Member Posts: 24,842
from, most decidedly, NOT an expert.
I think I would replace the stuff. I though I had a system with a good steel return, but there were sections which failed. Fortunately, in a place where it was accessible. And I would put it in a clay tile duct, just like it was, or even reuse the one you have. At any bends, and the ends, access points. And short enough sections so that you can disconnect pieces if you need to and snake them out. I have sort of decided that there is no such thing as too many unions...
I think I would replace the stuff. I though I had a system with a good steel return, but there were sections which failed. Fortunately, in a place where it was accessible. And I would put it in a clay tile duct, just like it was, or even reuse the one you have. At any bends, and the ends, access points. And short enough sections so that you can disconnect pieces if you need to and snake them out. I have sort of decided that there is no such thing as too many unions...
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
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Comments
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I have to change some steam pipes
I have to change some steam pipes. I have an eighty year old system with a return routed underneath a concrete slab. The slab is out, and I'm replacing the pipes. The old pipes were 1-1/4" steel pipe routed in 6 in drain tile (red clay sewer pipe). Then they were buried and covered in cement. Was this standard procedure back then? When I change the pipes, should I rout them back through the drain tile? Or should I route them through some PVC pipe? What is the best pipe dope to use for single pipe steam? What is the best and sure-fire way of checking the system for leaks after reassembly and before the slab is pored?? What else should I watch out for? I realize a lot of you have done this before, and as you can imagine, I only want to do this job once. Thanks for all your help. This site has been very useful, informative, and at times humorous.
Pete0 -
Pete, you have the right idea
If that were my system, I'd run the return above the slab if possible. This way, if anything went wrong you could get to it.
If the above is not an option, drain tile is a good way to go. Don't use PVC as it may melt, even if you insulate the return pipe (as you should).
Any good pipe dope will work OK. If the return is below the boiler water line, and therefore full of water, you can use copper since in this case it would not carry steam.
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Consulting0 -
I can't run above the slab
I can't run it above the slab,just because there is no room. The best I can do is fabricate some sort of duct w/ a 20 foot access panel. However, building that might be a lot of work anyways. I can post a photo of the floor, and a diagram of the steam system.
I started cutting the old pipe out, and I found it to be in real decent shape. It was free and clear inside, with hardly (if any) scale or deposits. It didn't even look like it needed replacing. However if I don't replace it,....
What is standard for underground insulation? Should I insulate the pipe before covering it w/ drain tile?? What do I cover the right angle junctions with?
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Jamie
How did that run this winter? Did you get both sides finished? Are you heating the whole cottage, now? How do you like it now?
Noel0 -
Yes I am, I love it -- any Wallie who'd like to is welcome to send me an e-mail (I'm often not home) and drop by -- working Hoffman Loop, Gorton vents, the whole thing. And war stories.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0
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