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Boiler Maintenance and Recommendations

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charlie123
charlie123 Member Posts: 41
edited 7:30PM in Oil Heating

I have a few questions I'm hoping you guys can help with.

I'm considering leaving my very large oil-provider and looking into service contracts.

I'm in Suffolk County on LI and have a ~40 year old Utica OBT-3O which I believe is a dry-base boiler.

It was suggested that draining the water from a boiler and treating for scale is something that should be done with the annual tune-up, but from what I'm seeing, no one seems to include this in their service. Is this not a critical maintenance step, or is it a royal PITA or somehow a liability?

To be clear, I could see possibly not starting this on my old boiler after 40 years (assuming that dry-base boilers require this service), but it doesn't seem to be offered for new boilers either.

When I do replace my boiler, it looks like the choice might be between a Peerless WBV-03 or an EK-1 due to limited depth/ need for top venting.

The Peerless has been described as the best pin boiler on the market but I see a lot of VERY negative comments about pin boilers on the forums: is there something about the Peerless that allows it to transcend the typical issues with pin boilers, or would you run away?

Regarding the EK and criticisms I've seen: I can't imagine that here in the Northeast oil-country any dealer would have an issue getting parts, but I am concerned about complexity/ sophistication impacting reliability. I expect to have the EK installed by a company that is very experienced with EK, and service performed every year without fail (assuming every 6 months is not required?): is decades of reliable performance a reasonable expectation?

One last EK question: in my small 918 sq ft house, anything will be grossly oversized, and while I understand that the EK strives for maximum efficiency, am I correct in thinking that as a result of being oversized, it's still subject to more wear-and-tear as a result of (relative) short-cycling? Or does EK do something to reduce its net output, similar to using a smaller nozzle?

Thanks for reading and for any thoughts you might have.

Comments

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 18,693

    Either is a good choice.

    Regarding your present boiler- OK, it's older, but if it's the one I'm thinking of, it's built like a tank. Look at the return line from the radiators and see where it connects to the boiler- if it connects at the very bottom it's a wet-base (or at least wet-leg) unit. If it connects above the firebox, it's dry-base.

    Also, what burner is on it?

    Post some pics if you can.

    All Steamed Up, Inc.

    Baltimore, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting

  • charlie123
    charlie123 Member Posts: 41
    utica1.jpg utica2.jpg

    @Steamhead, let me know if these help, or I'll take another. I was told these burn out in the back but the back seems fine, the front looks a little tired but I was told the chamber is in good shape.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 20,465

    That is a dry base boiler.

    Yes, they can burn out the back but they don't have to.

    The reason they burn out the back is when the combustion chamber breaks down and needs replacement and if that is ignored they will burn out IMHO.

    It's because most "techs" will not replace a combustion chamber because it is a dirty job. They would rather sell a new boiler.

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 18,693

    Yup, dry base. It wasn't the one I was thinking of.

    I see lots of discoloration around the inspection port above the burner. When was the last time the top was removed and the baffles removed to clean the tubes? If they aren't doing that, they're simply taking your money.

    All Steamed Up, Inc.

    Baltimore, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting