Empty a bladder type expansion tank.

Robert_H

Before you unscrew it do you have a method to empty it? My back is done with this. Ive read about using a battery powered air compressor to blow it out once the system is isolated and drained. I have though about putting a bucket underneath and driving a hole in it (haven't don that yet)

mattmia2

i assume a bad one? drill a hole in it.

EBEBRATT-Ed

I agree drill a hole in it. Don't need a broken toe. I have taken them off and got surprised more than once. If the tank was good, you could just put more air pressure in it and the bladder would force the water out if the boiler was drained.

But if it was good, you wouldn't be replacing it.

SuperTech

When the bladder has failed the easiest thing to do is use a Schrader valve core removal tool to unscrew the valve core and drain the tank from the Schrader valve. These tools are commonly used in refrigeration and automotive repair, it's the same tool used to remove the valve core on a tire.

pecmsg

After you get the tank drained and removed install this for future use!

41672 - Webstone 41672 - 1/2" Pro-Pal Full Port Brass Ball Valve w/ Hi-Flow Hose Drain (600 WOG)

Intplm.

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1881051#Comment_1881051

Excellent idea. If you are pressed for time. Add a regular valve and go from there. What @pecmsg suggests above is really the way to go.

GroundUp

If the bladder isn't completely blown out, you can add air to the Schrader valve and push all water out the other end to wherever your drain is. If the tank is isolated and you don't want to drain the whole system down, then drilling a hole is usually best.

HomerJSmith

First, if you know the tank is bad, replace it. If you're not sure, what is the date code on the label, serial #? Maybe the air charge is diminished and all the tank needs is a proper air charge. I have had these tanks last 20 years and some have failed in less than 5 years.

If you have no way of isolating the tank, you have to drain down the sys. Do you have anti freeze in the sys? If you are lucky then the installers put isolation valve on each heating loop (probably not). As my Dad use to say,"If I didn't bad luck, I wouldn't have any luck at all". Isolate the zones. If you replace the tank, put a Webstone valve on the tank so it will be much easier to service next time. Use this valve. It's directional so install the right way,

I bought for a modest sum at Home Depot a small 120 Vac tire compressor that I use to put air in these tanks and of course my car tires.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Webstone-40612-1-2-Threaded-Pro-Pal-Full-Port-Ball-Valve-w-Hose-Drain

120-Volt Corded Electric Inflator

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-120-Volt-Corded-Electric-Inflator-HY120/301753174

mattmia2

a good bike pump(not the $20 k-mart type) will fill that tank before you can even get the cord untangled on an electric compressor.

HomerJSmith

@mattmia2 , I don't want to work that hard. Dual use.

hot_rod

Regardless if the bladder has failed or you just want to empty an under-charged tank to reset it, compressed air into the air schrader valve will push out the fluid.

Yet another option is a portable air tank like you use for filling tires, about 40 bucks at Harbor Freight.

I'd like to see Milwaukee combine their cordless pump and compressor into one tool. A lever or knob to select one function or the other.

EBEBRATT-Ed

Good idea maybe you should suggest that to them??

But maybe they won't. Why sell one tool when you can sell two. (their perspective)

mattmia2

why break one tool when you can break two…

Robert_H

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1881051#Comment_1881051

Oh yes, at least an isolation valve for the tank. I have been installing these. But I do like the larges drain on the one you linked.

Robert_H

I recently picked up the M12 compressor. The size is great, you a small box in the truck

Alan (California Radiant) Forbes

When there's no isolation/drain valve assembly on x-tanks, it can be a huge pain. Removing the schrader valve helps, but with a good bladder, there can be an unexpected weight when released with a potential for lots of water. Maybe someone will come out with one that has a small release valve tapped into the tank itself.

I've got both the cordless Makita and Milwaukee compressors and like the Makita trigger action vs. the push button Milwaukee. Easier to let go of the trigger to stop air flow than pushing a button. Also got the dual presta/schrader fitting for bike tires/x-tanks.

Robert_H

I really appreciate everyone's input! Today I changed the first expansion tank using the Milwaukee M12 compressor. Ill never take one down again without it or drilling a hole…