Triangle Tube Woes... Fault codes
My Triangle Tube Heater read the memo about the demise of the company and shut itself down, Fault Code '8' ..that is the fan, right? Looks easy enough to access it, what about parts availability ? Can I buy this fan some where? I think there was a second / different fault code at first.. "1".. Now it's just saying '8' I used to have access to the manual ( on the computer ) will look for it see what I can learn, also will contact T/Tube by email.
If this thing is beyond repair, can anyone recommend some nice products which make heat and hot water? For about 10 years this pumped hot water through the baseboard & supplied endless hot water, hate to give upon it. It is a long shot, but would be amazing if someone had a working fan I can toss in there to see if that is in fact the only problem. I am a Brooklyn Loft..it's 52 degrees F in here.
Comments
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other info:
S/N 08929
year built 2013
NB 07505
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parts are still around, they've only been gone a couple weeks. make sure the fan is bad and something else isn't causing that code first like clogged venting or a clogged hx or backed up condensate or dirty fan blades or clogged pressure switch connections
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what is the actual model of the boiler? the prestige PS series troubleshooting guide does not show any error 1 and all the fault codes should either read starting with "b" thats a lower case B or E for example E 08 is a control error, reset the control (short out the leftmost top and bottom exposed pins on the front of unit), if problem persists replace control. do you have a prestige? since its a combi assuming you have a prestige excellence
does it look like the boiler on this document?
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GGross & Mattmia Thanks for your information. will post a few pictures of the unit
GGross, that manual is for an earlier model 2008, mine is a Challenger from 2013
Mattmia, I was thinking it wouldn't hurt to dismantle the whole thing and clean everything,
worried about messing something up or not being able to re-gasket certain parts etc.
or even buy just the needed gaskets.
Dirt is often the culprit when things malfunction,
pretty sure dirt and or water intrusion has done this thing in, but I am not HVAC fluent.
Noticed there is a slight roof leak at the vent tubes.
So who in the NYC is a Triangle Tube expert? Anyone local want to check for:
clogged venting
clogged hx
backed up condensate
dirty fan blades
clogged pressure switch connections
….etc?
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look in the find a contractor at the top of this page, there are several very good contractors in nyc.
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thanks will do .
I think this is the unit below (BHS is a great resource):
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It could be the fan. Could also be a loose wire.
Parts are available still. Also the fan from the IBC HC/DC will also fit. P-708
Its not a swap out one for another… The venturi needs to be reused.
For a contractor familiar w/ the boiler its a 1 hour job.
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found the instruction booklet, can't find a list of specific fault codes but I think the unit got wet from our roof leak, so the whole computer could be fried ..fan is acting up ..might just be the fan but i think that is wishful thinking. My neighbor is under the same roof and had the same problem a few years ago and was able to get his repaired. There are three or four TT boilers water heaters in this building, all the same model, all installed at the same time around 2013 or 2014, one had a melted fan a few years ago (!) This is the first time mine has failed. In our building tenants are responsible for heat and repairs, unique situation ~ years ago Property owner got us a deal on these t/t boilers - for better or worse. He also suggested a plumber who said fan replacement is $ X for the fan and $2x that total for the fan & labor. .. (not sure discussing prices is allowed here!) but i feel like i should order the fan and replace it myself easy enough to do… and save 50%. But the Plumber obviously has more skills and expertise and maybe a better lead on supplies but he's not my kind of tradesman, let's just say. I am also tempted to put the repair towards a new unit..a different Brand of course and hope for a "plug n play" install so at least if i have to sweat some copper or 'adjust' the venting- I don't have to mess with the gas service.
44 deg F in my bathroom. Luckily my G/f lives a few blocks away and ..lets just say i am lucky.
Thanks all for your info.
HVAC is a relatively new subject for me, learning fast
..…water that feels like ice-melt from the tap is no fun
Model Challenger CC125
Serial #: 051227-1306e11074
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Did you contact any of the people i listed?
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kcopp, i do have a few numbers on hand from my contractor pals but if these leads don't pan-out, I will be contacting someone from your list who is nearby, thanks.
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UPDATE! Sorry for the long delay, I thought I had posted about this. Thanks all, for your good advice. A few weeks ago, I went ahead and hired the crazy plumber my Landlord had recommended, against my better judgment (but to stay in his good graces) In short: it turns out a new fan solved the problem, heater is working again & hot-water is 100% fine - took him all of 20 min to install the new one. Cost was obscene. Can I post prices here ? Ugh. In retrospect, i should've sourced the fan myself and done the job. It is super easy to install a new fan…from what i observed.
"a minor" problem: sometimes turning on the hot water the heater, causes heater to shut off and not come back on. Usually it does come back on. Sometimes the heater turns off all on it's own. Might be the- now obsolete -(horrible)- NEST thermostat. That thing needs to be tossed out. I will install a N.O.S. 1988 Honeywell and get 30 years of service out of it.
"bigger issue" Last week the pump below the unit seized (?) momentarily and started to overheat and smell bad, about 5 hrs later it started to work again (!) and the melted-plastic-smell dissipated. It is now working fine. I went ahead and ordered a new Wilo-Star S which looks like a 'nice pice of kit" and a worthy upgrade. I feel the need to play it safe, so i think a new pump was prudent. So far I have dumped nearly the cost of a new system into this ordeal, but the more time I spent with this Triangle Tube thing, I don't hate it. It is quite all right. Made in the NL !
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I would start by checking for air. It's possible you have an automatic reset low water cutoff attached that shuts down the call for heat, though it should be attached in such a way to stop the burner for both heat and DHW. If it goes off again you can check to see if the LWCO is tripped, most boilers have some way to connect a burner blocking signal such that it will give an error code, but it is possible to hook these up in such a way that no error code will be present. The locked pump getting hot etc also tracks with an air issue.
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This makes a lot of sense, thanks GGross, will check for a low water cutoff tmw in the daylight.
I am on the 4th floor and the water pressure is not always optimal.
Also if there is air in the system, i should do a bleed of the whole thing, right?
Pretty sure its only been done once or twice -not every year as is (probably) required.
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A properly installed system gets purged of air at install (high pressure through each zone to get out big air pockets, and the bulk of air from filling) and has an inline air separator to work out entrained air over a season or so, a few high point vents where it makes sense can help stop air lock issues down the road as well. With no leaks you would never need to do this again, unless a repair or addition requires getting into the water side of the system. If you have leaks (cold static pressure dropping over time) you may need to purge air periodically depending on how well your system is designed to get rid of air.
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when is the last time the top of heat exchanger including blower were removed and inside of combustion chamber and heat exchanger were cleaned? Impression is not very often if ever. This will finally cause major damage and can be dangerous if neglected.
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Yeah Tim good point.
Watched a tube video of that process awhile back, thinking to do a full overhaul and clean-out this spring. Surprised to watch all the debris come out of there. Cleanliness is really the way to make any kind of system last longer. Just curious, upon reassembly, if torque specs on all those allen bolts is specified anywhere ?
GGross thanks for clear concise answer. I see a 3/4" Spirovent Jr. Air Eliminator is present, which I guess, eventually decided to get rid of the air which was locking up the pump. There are two pumps. The black Grunfos ( -guessing again! ) is the one which "pushes" the heated water to the heaters ? Noticed it has a setting "Low" / "Med" "Hi" ( it's set to 'low' ) The other pump in the system is a single speed
Taco Circulator pump (which might be replaced by a slightly bigger 3 speed Wilo - is that a good idea?) The Taco "pull's" water back into circulation. Or maybe its the other way around? Should I increase that setting to MED or Hi ? System-purge maybe prudent to prevent air lock… especially if the Inline Air Separator can't do it's job, maybe thats the part I should've replaced? Damn. But it all seems to be functioning fine now. It 28 deg F outside, so, as long as its producing heat, I am not going to do any major re-habilitation or upgrades. As long as its working, I really like it. Anyway, its an impressive piece of technology.
We finally have a real winter this year. You guys must be pretty busy and I do appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge.
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