Burnham Boiler Issue
Hoping someone would be willing to help out with my Burnham Low Pressure Boiler (see photo 1).
I seem to be having issues with the automatic pilot (theres no manual ignitor).
I have attached a few photos to help walk through the troubleshooting I did. When i turn power on i hear the thermostat click in and I believe the exhaust switch click? Then i hear the gas valve click and the thermocouple/ignitor click? I seem to be having 2 potential issues...
- The gas valve ignitor plug seems to be reading 63 volts. Shouldn't it be 24?
2. The lines to the high limit/roll out switch seems to be reading 0 volts...Once again, shouldn't it be 24?
I replaced the ignitor/thermocouple and it glows, so that appears to be working. I have the thermostats on and set way high.
is my gas valve shorting out and not properly opening to allow gas to flow? I dont smell gas. Photo just showing i have 24 volts at the transformer.
It just feels like im having a gas supply issue but I dont know why.
Comments
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That is a Honeywell 'Smart Valve". They work a little different. That model valve is pretty old and is no longer made. The valve shown on the attached is a direct replacement so everything should be the same as far as troubleshooting.
Troubleshooting starts on page 11.
The hot surface ignitor is also the flame sensor. Since it is glowing it should be ok. First thing is check all wiring connections.
Then try the troubleshooting chart.
Come back her for more help
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Your second picture is where you are measuring voltage to the hot surface igniter which will be greater than 24 volts in order to get the igniter hot.
Your third picture where you are measuring voltage to the flame rollout switch, you are only measuring one leg of the transformer, so you won't see voltage unless your other lead is placed on the other leg.
Your problem could be as simple as a clog in the small aluminum pilot tube that goes from the gas valve to the pilot. A technician would unscrew the brass nut that connects the small aluminum tube to the control and see if gas comes out of that port on a call for heat. If yes, there's a clog in the line, probably at the pilot. If no, you may need a new gas valve.
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0 -
there are a lot of YouTube videos on how to troubleshoot a HW Smart valve, if that helps
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
that black zip cord looks like it goes to a safety outside the cabinet. is that going to a vent damper?
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Some of the Smart Valves only use 24 v to the HSI ignitor.
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The photo you sent shows the manual ball valve on the left is shut. Did you close that while you were testing? If not that would be your issue. If someone opened the gas line to the atmosphere there will also be air in the lines that you can bleed from the union. Tighten the union once you smell gas and it should fire up.
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