Nothing happens at all when Beckett boiler reset button is pushed

tmtruett

Woke up to no hot water. Verified I have oil, red light is on. (Honeywell R8184G4009) Pushed button once, light goes out and nothing at all happens. The exhaust fan turns on but the burner remains silent. Red light returns after 40-ish seconds Where do I go next?

HVACNUT

Exhaust fan or intake fan? Is the boiler power vented, not using a typical chimney?

If power vent, and the power vent is working, it's possibly a bad end switch in the power vent controls, or the pressure control is doing it's job and preventing the end switch from closing. If it's a combustion air fan, same principle.

Any obstruction outside?

EBEBRATT-Ed

Check and see if the burner motor has a little red reset button on the motor. Some motors do and some do not. It could have tripped on overload protection.

Probably time to call for service.

tmtruett

It has a power exhaust vent that is mounted just above the boiler on the wall, no obstruction there, sounds normal. Ill check for a reset button on burner motor which was replaced last year

tmtruett

No reset button of burner motor. the squirrel cage inside burner turns freely by finger. I had a spare Honeywell relay with same part number and swapped it out. No change…. ugh.

tmtruett

😓

tmtruett

Grallert

There is a proving tube inside the power venter. This tube transmits a vacuum from the ban housing to the switch, proving exhaust. These often get blocked with combustion debris.

tmtruett

Screen Shot 2025-05-11 at 3.40.57 PM.png

Is it this metal tube?

EBEBRATT-Ed

Yes. That senses draft and is connected to the pressure switch. You can try jumping the pressure switch but DO NOT LEAVE IT JUMPERED BAD THINGS CAN HAPPEN.

Doyou have a test meter to see if the burner control is getting 120 volts?

tmtruett

I do have one. figuring all this out with mothers day family guests, such fun

Steamhead

@tmtruett , if the burner motor is starting, the proving switch on the power venter is working (assuming it's wired properly). So the problem may be elsewhere. Did you check to see if you have oil in the tank?

Also, I noticed some blackening around the inspection port above the burner. That would indicate poor operation. That burner should never make any smoke or soot if properly maintained.

Where are you located? We might know someone who can help you……………

HydronicMike

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1855275#Comment_1855275

He stated the power venter came on but the burner motor did not.

tmtruett

Hudson valley area NY,

Power vent tuen on, burner motor does not

Steamhead

I'd suspect either the motor or the control. If there's power going to the motor, the motor is bad. If not, it's the control.

That R8184G control should be replaced anyway since it has the ancient 45-second trial for ignition, and does not cut off the ignition after the flame is proven. Newer ones lock out in 15 seconds if the burner doesn't light, and turn off the ignition after it does. Since it's branded Resideo, it was replaced rather recently- it amazes me that some service companies would still install something like that.

EBEBRATT-Ed

@Steamhead

The op just replaced the control. The power venter starts the burner does not. Power venter sw. is the place to start or tubing.

tmtruett

Yes I replaced it, I had one on hand. I didn't know there was something better. Once fixed, I'll upgrade.

Steamhead

The longer trial for ignition is no longer Code compliant. Say the burner tried to start and the ignition was iffy- the motor and fan introduced air and oil to the firebox, but it didn't light until 38 seconds in- this would result in a "backfire" or "puffback" which would blow smoke and soot all over the place. Not good.

Some even older controls had 60- to 90-second trials for ignition- they were truly scary. There really is no reason to continue to sell any control with longer than 15-second TFI.

EdTheHeaterMan

I Have been following this for the past few hours and can tell you the following:

The Field Controls SWG series venter can confuse many technicians.   In order to determine if the burner motor is the problem get yourself a cheater cord.  That would be an extension cord with the female end removed or with alligator clips.  Remove the motor from the burner (you don't want the pump operating for this test.)  Connect the burner motor to the alligator clips and plug in the motor to a wall outlet known to have 120 VAC.  Do this for less than 5 seconds.   If the motor does not spin, the burner motor is bad.  If the burner motor turns, then the motor is good.    Be sure to use a  120 VAC outlet that is known to have power. 

My hunch is that the motor will operate properly.

The next thing to look at is the CK control kit pictured here.  This control should always have 120 VAC at terminal L1 and L2. (L2 is sometimes called N or Neutral) When the primary control gets power from a call for heat The M1 terminal will operate the SWG vent motor.  This is to provide suction for the exhaust fumes from the heater to the outdoors.  

That happens when the Orange wire from the Primary control gets power.   The orange wire should be connected to T1 on the Fields Control CK control kit.  Not the burner motor.  That is the safety feature built into the Field Controls SWG Control Kit. You don’t want the burner motor to operate if the exhaust fan is not operating.  

By what you have said so far we know the following:

1. The thermostat calling for heat is working
2. The R8184 Primary control is working
3. The Field CK control kit relay is working
4. The Field SWG motor is working

What we do not know at this point is if the pressure switch is working or not.  We also don't know if the tube that connects the vent pressure area of the SWG vent is connected to the pressure switch properly, or if the tube that connects the pressure area of the SWG venter is clogged with debris.   

If the tube is not clogged, then the pressure from the fan operating is not enough to close the pressure switch contacts, or the pressure switch is defective or worn out.   If you replace the pressure switch and find the same problem, then you will own two working pressure switches.  I might look at the fan blade of the Field SWG.  They may be clogged with carbon or rust buildup and not moving the same amount of air as it did when it was new, or the fan may be missing some of the fan blades.  Inspecting the condition of the fan is less expensive than putting on a new pressure switch.   If the fan looks fine, then the pressure switch may be the problem.  Again if you replace the pressure switch without checking that the connecting tube is clear, you may end up owning two working pressure switches and just need to run a pipe cleaner (available at smoke shops or craft stores) through the tube.  I have found that the aluminum tube is fine but the short section that is in the Fan that is made from steel is clogged.

You may also find that the relay in the Field CK kit is defective. On the CK61 kit that relay is replaceable.

I just recently made this diagram available for another guest that has a Field SWG power venter in this post.

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1854676#Comment_1854676