Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

dealing with twists in the pex , not staple up. I have Omega extrusions now. YAY!

2»

Comments

  • AlaskaDick
    AlaskaDick Member Posts: 28

    Speaking of the blue plastic, is it necessary that it be removed before staple up heat transfer plates are installed?

  • skyking1
    skyking1 Member Posts: 55

    I don't know the right answer for that.

    We are getting plates up today. Thanks again Bob for the magnet wrist band suggestion. My brother and I are putting them up using gauge blocks off the joist caps, two guns, and scaffolding.

  • skyking1
    skyking1 Member Posts: 55

    'we have about 1000 feet installed so far. We will finish the 1st floor tomorrow and I can take stock on what I might need to order. I can get some upunor locally if needed, but I get the thinfin C for less. It boils down to the shipping quote. I am guessing about 3 boxes shy. Oops.

    PXL_20250525_015823624.jpg
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 25,141

    What is your plan for getting around that beam?

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • skyking1
    skyking1 Member Posts: 55
    edited May 25

    That beam and bearing wall line is a loop divider. I have planned it that way. I have no desire to perforate the stacked beams.

    I ran the plates up to that one and will loop up out of it as close as possible, because it happens to be under the dining room.

    I will plan it so that is the turning end like this.

    image.png

    Upstairs the same beam has a wall over it so not such a deal for getting close to it.

    Update on the screws. They are the bomb! I can quickly drill on through where ever needed in a custom location or from cutting pieces. All threads with no stupid sheet metal drill section means they grab nicely. On setting 1 on the 18V Milwaukee they do not spin out easily. On the little 12V they hammer a bit, safe and predictable.

    @hot_rod

    where did you get those corrugated magnet wrist bands? The ones I have are smooth and I think yours probably holds screws nicer.

    We do a lot of magnet stick pick up from the dropped screws.

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 25,141

    I had a pair of SilverBack fingerless gloves with a magnetic back that worked well also. They finally rotted away and came apart. The combination of wrist band and gloves loads you up with an hours worth of ammo :)

    Screenshot 2025-05-25 at 12.01.43 PM.png Screenshot 2025-05-25 at 12.02.40 PM.png
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    PC7060skyking1
  • RascalOrnery
    RascalOrnery Member Posts: 94

    I put up those thin flashing typew with Staples and screws and all it did was make pinch points and everything else an air gap. I ended up solving it by cutting furring strips to short length to sandwich to the subfloor, also helps prevent downward loss.

    skyking1

Welcome

It looks like you're new here. Sign in or register to get started.

Welcome

It looks like you're new here. Sign in or register to get started.