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Pool heater quotes help

tibo4031
tibo4031 Member Posts: 3

hey, I’m getting different quotes to add a 400k pool heater. So far one guy said we can’t tap in to the 1.25” already close to the pool heater location and would have to run a new line from the meter. Another guy said we can absolutely go off of the 1.25” already in the house.

The existing pipe carries a furnace, range/oven and tankless water heater.

From the meter the total length is roughly 90’

if we tap onto the existing line it’s roughly 60’

I’ve looked at the load charts and can’t really believe that adding the heater to the existing piping makes sense but this is not my area of expertise at all.


thanks for any input

Comments

  • LRCCBJ
    LRCCBJ Member Posts: 990

    The 1.25 can handle 600K at a .5 WC drop in pressure.

    I suppose, if you ran the pool heater with all the other devices mentioned at the same time, you'd exceed 600K slightly. This would only mean that the pressure drop will be slightly greater than .5. This would only be a factor if the utility is currently right at the lower limit………….usually unlikely.

    tibo4031
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 5,907

    what size gas meter is on the structure that determines if you can add something that big

    Mad Dog_2clammy
  • tibo4031
    tibo4031 Member Posts: 3
    edited April 4

    long story short, built an in-law…the original meter application asked for 559k, we have told the utility that we are now around 764k and are getting an upgrade.

    My question is if we were to T off of the existing 1.25 which is already 35’ from the meter and go another 60’ would that 1.25 carry enough in both direction, say left to the in laws appliances and right to the pool heater.

    That’s at least where my different plumbers quotes are confusing me

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,548

    NO. 11/4 is not large enough in either instance.

    If you go from the meter to the pool heater @ 100 feet you need 1 1/2" will carry 460 cfh @.3 pressure drop. 1 1/4" will only carry 305 at the same PD.

    Tapping into the existing pipe will not work especially with a tankless water heater.

    In your area a PD of.5 is probably allowed but that will not change things enough to use a smaller pipe and the meter will have to be large enough.

    You have to add up the btu of all appliances to size the meter.

    tibo4031
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 24,881
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    tibo4031
  • tibo4031
    tibo4031 Member Posts: 3

    Awesome thanks a lot. That confirms how I was understanding it. Much appreciated

  • Larry Weingarten
    Larry Weingarten Member Posts: 3,792

    Hi, Any chance getting a pool cover to minimize losses would let you get a smaller pool heater? 🤔 Usually about 90% of the losses are off the surface of the water.

    Yours, Larry

    hot_rodLRCCBJ
  • LRCCBJ
    LRCCBJ Member Posts: 990

    The reason they are confusing you is based upon them sizing the pool heater, alone, with the 1.25" pipe or sizing the pool heater together with the tankless ,stove, and the furnace.

    If the former, of course you can run 400K on the 1.25 without an issue at 100'

    But add another estimated 400K with everything running and you cannot get the pool heater to receive sufficient volume unless you accept a pressure drop of 2.0 in. water.

    Now, if the utility provides 7.0 in pressure leaving the meter (which it should), the pool heater will be perfectly fine with a pressure of 5.0 in. with everything else running.

    However, this goes against conventional standards requiring a pressure drop of not more than .5. There are some people who understand that this limitation is a bit ridiculous but for most folks, they abide by the .5 limit despite the fact that it really depends on the supply from the utility.

    I know a reputable designer who utilized 3/8" piping for most gas boiler installations. He knew that the smaller piping would work perfectly fine with the 7.0 in. that he had from the meter. Very few understand this.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,548

    That is fine but the gas code dictates what the pressure drop can be. Low pressure gas anything under 1/2 a psi is suppose to be .3 or.5" of WC. Running with a large PD can cause regulator issues.

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 24,881

    A lower BTU/hr pool heater is another option. It adds time to the pool heat up or recovery. I doubt you need 400K to maintain temperature. I hope not, it will get expensive.

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • worldclasshvac
    worldclasshvac Member Posts: 37

    As mentioned a solar type cover or anything on the water surface will hold the majority of your heat in. Gas heaters are great for spot heating quickly they get expensive as a constant heat source. I have pool solar in my 1 story roof next to the equipment, I keep a 90deg pool most of the summer for zero gas use. Pool pump runs anyway (VS) and heats the pool as well. If I don't cover the pool it can lose.8-10 degrees over night, covered 1-2deh

    Larry Weingarten
  • TAG
    TAG Member Posts: 787

    Can't the utility help you …. mine did/ have done.

    400k is the biggest typical residential unit and if the pool is any size …nice to have. Bigger is better when it comes to a pool heater. At my place in NJ w/ natural gas I maintain a temp — in PA with Propane I don't. Having the biggest allows the fastest recover and least waste.