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Cast Iron baseboard leak on strange fitting

I have an older home with cast iron baseboard. I found a leak on a strange looking fitting. Can I replace this fitting with a normal peice of 3/4 copper? What is the point of this fitting?

IMG_7014.jpeg IMG_7015.jpeg IMG_7016.jpeg IMG_7017.jpeg

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Comments

  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 961
    edited February 1

    Looks like an expansion coupling. Looks like a bad idea. Should be a simple repair with a couple of couplings and a length of pipe.

    Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager, teacher, dog walker and designated driver

    Long Beach Ed
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 24,964

    A # 75 SlantFin expansion coupling, I'll bet. They come across E bay from time to time.

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,658

    Expansion joint. How long is the pipe run? I doubt they installed it for no reason

    mattmia2
  • castiron1790
    castiron1790 Member Posts: 6
    edited February 1

    there are two of these joints both are leaking, both at the beginning of the run. The water comes up from the basement then splits at a tee fitting on the second floor, About two feet from the t fitting are these joints. Each run goes around the perimeter of separate bedrooms then back down to the basement.

  • Long Beach Ed
    Long Beach Ed Member Posts: 1,754

    How long is the pipe it's on?

  • castiron1790
    castiron1790 Member Posts: 6
    edited February 1

    Coming off the tee, The pipe is about 3 foot long before it goes into the cast iron baseboard.

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 24,964

    You should be able to see how much the tube is moving by the scale around the outside.

    an expansion loop can be built with 4 ells also.

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    PC7060mattmia2
  • castiron1790
    castiron1790 Member Posts: 6

    so these should not be eliminated with straight pipe but replaced with new expansion fittings?

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 24,964

    it depends on the overall length of that section. The piping and baseboard combined.

    Without an expansion joint you may get noise, creaking, snap, crackle pop type noises as the metals heat and expand and try to grow in length.

    Long copper fin tube sections will arc up off their supports if you don’t accommodate the expansion movement.

    There are other types of expansion joints like a corrugated section. Viessmann use to have a short corrugated coupling that went between their solar hot water panels. I think it was a metric size however

    I wonder what the temperature rating is on these water heater connectors? I think it would offer enough flexibility.

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 2,125
    edited February 2

    Bellows type is still available.

    Much better than a slider joint.

    https://www.flexicraft.com/Metal_Expansion_Joints/Copper_Piping_Expansion_Compensator_S/

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • Larry Weingarten
    Larry Weingarten Member Posts: 3,807

    Hi, What temperatures is this seeing? Perhaps a loop of PEX would do the job.

    Yours, Larry

    EBEBRATT-EdIntplm.
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,658

    Larrys pex solution is probably the simple best solution if the temp is ok for the pex

    Intplm.
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 2,125
    edited February 2

    With more connectors? What's wrong with a compensator? 2 sweat joints and you're done.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • Intplm.
    Intplm. Member Posts: 2,604

    A lot of good ideas. Fostapex has a top temp rating of around 200Deg. f. . If it was me I would replace the expansion joints with a length of that.

    delcrossv
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 5,971
    edited February 2

    https://www.supplyhouse.com/Parker-Hannifin-475447-VAB7SS-7-8-ODF-Vibration-Absorber?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=Shopping_HVAC&utm_campaign=Shopping_X_HVAC_X_SSC_ClassB/C&utm_campaignid=21633352527&utm_adgroupid=164986448125&utm_targetid=aud-386072062457:pla-2352433400835&utm_product_id=475447&utm_matchtype=&utm_keyword=&utm_adtype=pla&utm_category=HVAC&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD_WAytSArjNTgjqdKLzFSkR2w6t_&gclid=CjwKCAiAzPy8BhBoEiwAbnM9OwC63tVi6cAUJjR5aAP3f6-fq9NLqu2BfKqW4gFK59T3h3oA8o1TahoCEyMQAvD_BwE

  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 2,125
    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 5,971

    It will handle 180°F water.

    McMaster Carr lists it at -300 - 1200°F

    delcrossv
  • castiron1790
    castiron1790 Member Posts: 6
    IMG_7030.jpeg

    thanks for the help fellas, put in a small expansion loop, no leaks and no popping sounds like before.

    mattmia2delcrossvIntplm.hot_rod

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