Crown BSI138 - Where do I start?

TomesoR

I was asked to clean this Crown boiler and possibly replace the corroded pipes... It seems the more I look the more I find wrong. Any advice? Should I just get in my car and drive until I run out of money?

I'd like to formulate a plan to get this up to spec, but it seems like literally every single thing was not only done wrong, but done in the worst (and in some cases) most dangerous way possible. Haven't had any luck getting anyone to agree to even look at it. Thanks for any advice you can offer.

Note: Yes, that is the gas line plumbed directly in front of the flue air intake.

Jamie Hall

Eek. This is steam heat, I think? Whoever did it should take to selling used cars…

The most important question is how's the boiler itself? If the boiler has some good years left in it, it's worth playing with — and shouldn't break the bank.

Myself I'd take out all the near boiler piping — including the feed pipe (I love the cockeyed water feeder) — right up to the old steam main or mains, which I presume are at the overhead (?). The either find the Crown piping diagram for that boiler, or use a generic version: riser up 24", header (increase one size) just off horizontal pitching to an equalizer, reducing elbow down to the Hartford Loop. Then take a look at the steam main(s). Are they counterflow? If so independent drips to the wet return inlet to the Hartford Loop. Hartford Loop as usual. Feed to the steam mains comes off the header and goes up to the steam mains. (if there are two mains, two vertical pipes up — not one with a T at the top).

Reroute and water inlet piping so that the water feeder isn't cockeyed and so that there are isolation valves for it, with a bypass for manual feeding.

While you're at it, fix the main venting. I'll bet it's just as wonky…

Robert_H

Wow, I haven't been in the game long enough to offer any advice but your right, nothing looks right there!

The boiler looks new enough and salvageable.

EdTheHeaterMan

Here is a good starting point.

BSI 138 Manual

For the life of me, I can't understand how someone can install a Crown steam boiler in the wrong way. This is the only company that actually gives you a complete list of all the parts you need to connect their boiler to the system main. You can use the list to order all the pipe and fittings or you can order the Single Riser Schematic – PN 850095U kit directly from Crown.

TomesoR

Question for you all - I’ve got the luxury of 10 feet of height in the boiler room and would like to go higher on the riser. Is there any reason I shouldn’t go with a 36” riser pipe, which would give me about 41.5” above the water line. In my mind, more height would be better, or is there a limit to this advantage?

Also, in my transition from a 2.5” header (2” riser into 2.5” header) should I use a reducing tee to begin transition to the 1.5” main or should I use a symmetrical tee and then reduce once to 2” and then once more to 1.5” ? Thank you for all the great responses.

delcrossv

I'd take the 2" all the way up and transition to 1.5 right before the main. I like to have reducing couplings vertical (no way to trap water). YMMV.

EdTheHeaterMan

In this diagram of the boiler piping provided by Crown Boiler Co. there is no need for 2-1/2" header. The boiler size that you have does not need the header to be that large of a diameter.

24" is a minimum dimension. Increasing to 36 is better so the nipple #3 can be 12" longer than specified 9" (red) to get you there. I think you will have a hard time finding a 2" x 21" long pipe nipple, so you will need to cut one and thread it yourself or have one made for you. Also #10 (red) will need the be changed to 1-1/2" x 21 also. There is a 18" nipple that is a normal stock size pipe you may find easier to get.

Since you are going to 2 different main risers, I would replace #5 pipe (blue) with a 2" tee and two more 2" nipples (length to be determined by fitting on the job site).

I would use a full 2" tees (#6) from the header to both main risers and then reduce with a coupling on the vertical OR I would use a reducing 90° elbow to transition the the main size.

TomesoR

Thank you all for your help and insight on this. I'm going to have to monitor the boiler and limp it along until the end of the heating season as the hot water heater, water supply and gas pipes all need to be replaced and the boiler relocated in the room to allow for code adherence and proper maintenance. I'll post a few pictures of how it turns out. Thanks again, this is a great resource!