Do pilot switches go bad?

guzzinerd

Today I had a technician come out and test the natural gas pressure at the boiler (3.5). It took a few minutes to get the pilot lit again but it finally lit and we left.

A few hours later i get a call from a tenant that the indoor temp is down to 61 so I go over (thermostat is set to 69). I had a spare pilot switch so i swapped it out and the thing fired up again.

Should i be changing the thermocouple as well?

Before heading home i shut it down with the LWCO and started it up again when i shut the valve.

Thanks . This is the first time the boiler failed to fire up so was a little stressed out. It's cold.

mattmia2

Thermocouples wear out over time and produce less and less current. you can get some idea about the condition with a millivoltmeter and some other tests that are in the instructions. The coil can break or I think there is a permanent magnet in the baso switch that can get weak but it is much more likely the thermocouple wears out or something happens with the pilot burner or the placement of the thermocouple in the pilot flame such that it doesn't get heated enough. A leaking boiler or condensation or any number of other leaks can put it out too.

guzzinerd

Thanks. It super dry out here and there's no moisture or condensation anywhere in the building.

I have a spare thermocouple as well, that something I can change myself or do I need a pro?

mattmia2

If it isn't obvious to you how to do it and it is not in your own residence you should probably call a pro to do it.

guzzinerd

Looks simple enough.

The "pro" I called yesterday to come test the pressure brought his manometer and shoved the hose in the test port hole telling me the pressure was low... I asked if he should be using a 1/4 inch nipple insert he said he didn't have one. I grabbed one of mine from my box and it tested at 3.5. Cost me $79 to help him do it right.

I would gladly use a pro if they were worth anything out here but they're not. They've done nothing but try to destroy my boiler before I bought the place. (6psi pressuretrol, monthly drain and fills etc.

I just wanted to know if I'll need special tools or training. I'll check youtube.

Thanks

pecmsg

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1837145#Comment_1837145

you got a untrained salesman. Why you paid him is your problem.
Stop calling the low advertised contractors that only want to sell, sell, sell.
fond a contractor you can trust. Pay what they want. Take care of the service tech.

guzzinerd

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1837147#Comment_1837147

I've tried every outfit in town. The fact they all suck is why I'm on this forum and learning my system one piece at a time.

The only reason I called the guy who came by yesterday is because he's new to town and from the east coast. I paid him knowing he burned his bridge with me. Thanks for the advice

mattmia2

It just has a nut that screws in to the baso switch and a nut or clip that holds it in the pilot burner. On some boilers you can just reach in and change it, others you have to remove the main burner assembly. Some main burners come out around the manifold, others you have to undo some piping to get it out. You need to put everything back where it came from. It isn't a super complicated project but on some boilers it is harder than others and there are a number of ways it can be dangerous if you don't do it right.

guzzinerd

Thanks Matt. Everything looks easy to reach. I'm going to wait until Spring or until it fails, whichever comes first.

Long Beach Ed

Watch the thin aluminum pilot tube that carries the gas to the pilot if you have to remove the pilot burner. It crimps, kinks and cracks easily. Its retaining nuts can also loosen. Not a big deal,but if you damage it you'll have to replace it.

guzzinerd

WIll do