Pressure rising causing PRV to slowly leak
I have a newer (4 year old) hydronic gas fed system. I have town water. I set the PSI at 15. When the system turns on, the PSI slowly rises to 30 making the PRV open. There is a pressure reducing valve but I’m not sure how old that is. I shut off the town water feed and the next day my PSI is below 5. When I open the town water it goes up to 15 when the system is idle. When it fires up the PSI slowly climbs to 30 and slowly drips from the PRV. My guess is the pressure reducing valve is no good. My expansion tank is also 4 years old. Most of my house is carbon radiators with some baseboard being added in a new bathroom and kitchen before I brought the house. What am I missing?
thanks!🙏
Comments
-
My guess is the pressure reducing valve is no good.
You most likely guessed correctly.
When the boiler is at 15 psi, find the shutoff valve that is probably right before the pressure reducing valve. Shut it off.
Run the boiler normally for a day or so.
If it still remains near 15 psi, you confirmed the issue.
Just leave the shutoff valve off (some people leave it off all the time) until you replace the PRV.
0 -
You're missing the expansion tank. Being that young, it's most likely ether lost its precharge completely — or was never charged properly in the first place. It could, also, have failed.
First thing to do — on the end of the tank away from the water inlet there is a Schrader valve, just like a car.tire. Take the valve cap off and give it a little poke. Air should come out. If not, you haven't really finished. On the other hand, if a little squirt of water comes out, the tank id done. Time for a new one.
Now if air came out, find a reliable tire pressure gauge and measure the air pressure. It should be right around 15 psi, to match your feed valve. If it is either much more or much less, the tank is incorrectly charged.
You will need to empty the tank (hopefully you have a valve to shut it off from the system. Even more hopefully, there is a drain for the tank…) completely. If you can do this without removing the tank from the system physically, so much the better. With the tank completely empty of water, set the air pressure with the Schrader valve to that 15 psi. Watch the tank for several hours. The pressure should hold. If it does, reconnect the tank to the system and test the system. If the pressure doesn't hold — or if you can't pressuise it at all — the tank is done.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.5K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 53 Biomass
- 423 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 96 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.5K Gas Heating
- 101 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.5K Oil Heating
- 64 Pipe Deterioration
- 929 Plumbing
- 6.1K Radiant Heating
- 384 Solar
- 15.1K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 54 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 48 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements